Trans Africa on a bicycle: solo: a tribute to H.W.Tilman

[A solo bicycle journey from the Equator to Tropic of Capricorn and from East Coast (Indian Ocean) to West Coast (Atlantic Ocean) through the African continent]

 H.W.Tilman’s journey across Africa along the equator on a bicycle back in 1932-33; inspired me to get out there and begin my very own Trans African  bicycle adventure.

Instead of retracing or repeating Tilman’s route I however preferred a route of my own. I would start from the Equator in Kenya and finish near the Tropic of Capricorn. Instead of heading down south in a straight line (as the road network would permit of course); I decided to touch the east coast of the African continent in Dar Es Salam. By doing so my route got an added value of East Coast to West Coast traverse along with the primary goal of Equator to Capricorn journey.

My route would take me through the Kenyan Highlands, Great Rift Valley, the Masaai Steppe, Foothills of Mt Kenya, Mt Meru and Mt Kilimanjaro, The Usambara Mountains, Coastal regions of Tanga, historical town and port of Dar Es Salam ( and Zanjibar), Mikumi National Park, The Udzungua Mountains, the great Ruaha river, forests of Sao Hill, hills of Mbeya, Lake Malawi, Livingstonia mountains, Tobacco growing regions of Kasungu, the great east road in Zambia, Luangwa river, Victoria falls, the Zambezi plains, Caprivi strip, Okavango river, Okavango flood plain, Bushman’s land, Trans Kalahari Highway, the Namib desert and finally to the Atlantic coast in Walvis Bay and Swakopmund.   

Kenya

My journey started (which I would rather call a pilgrimage) from the town of Nanyuki in Kenya. This town is located a tiny bit north of the imaginary line of the equator in the foothills of Mt Kenya.

Starting my ride on 24^th June, 2012 from Nanyuki, I reached Nairobi in two days with an overnight stop at Karatina. Another 2 days ride brought me to the Tanzanian border town of Namanga.

Tanzania

From Namanga I rode through Arusha, Moshi, and instead of going straight down to Dodoma, I took the road to Dar Es Salam. After reaching Dar and a quick visit to the historical stone town in the island of Zanzibar; I was back on the road again. This time I was on the Morogoro- Mbeya road.

Malawi

I entered Malawi from Tanzania by the Kyela border post and continued to the town of Karonga located on the shores of Lake Malawi.  After Chitimba I crossed the mountains of Livingstonia, Chiweta coal mines area; and after spending a night in Ekwendeni I reached Mzuzu. Passing through the Viphya forest region, Kasungu and Mponela I arrived Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi.

Zambia

From Lilongwe I entered Zambia by the Mchinji- Chipata border post. From Chipata I was on the great east road of Zambia and for the next couple of days I passed through some of the most mountainous and spectacular scenery.   Reaching Lusaka I took a few days rest and soon back on the road to Livingstone and the Victoria Falls.

Namibia

I entered Namibia from Zambia through the Sesheke border and moved on to the town of Katima Mulilo on the same day. In next two days I crossed the Caprivi Strip and reached Rundu. Rundu to Otjiwarongo was another very long, dry, windy and tiring, yet beautiful stretch in my entire Trans Africa route.

The last leg of my cycling was from Windhoek to the port town of Walvis Bay, where I reached on the morning of 2^nd September 2012. It took me 69 days in total to complete the journey, out of which 20 days were either rest days or used for other travel related purpose.

The total distance covered is approximately 5333km (as per google maps) out of which I had cycled 4500km in 49 days. The rest 833km I had used various forms of public transport or hitchhiked due to security reasons; which were sometimes wild life, sometimes other threats.

acknowledgments

The invaluable support from Mr. Sabyasachi Talukdar, Editor and CEO, Uttarbanga Sambad ( a Bengali Newspaper) made this adventure financially feasible for me. I am also indebted to Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya for his relentless, meticulous, unconditional support before and during the trip. Last but not the least are my friends Arindam Mukherjee, Ananth HV and Martin Mucke. They lend me a helping hand whenever I was heading for a shortfall in my budget. I am grateful! 

I also want to extend my sincere thanks to Regina Makirika (Ngaramtoni-Arusha),Rachel (Moshi), Elyoroma(Same) Ahmed Khan (Dar Es Salam), Shaunak Ganguly (Lilongwe), Partha Chaudhury (Lilongwe) for letting me stay in their houses and feeding me for more than just a day! 

In this journey I learnt that a friend is never too far away. They are always there when you need one. 

Therefore, this may have been a trip inspired by my Himalayan Guru H.W.Tilman; but I would like to dedicate this journey to the hundreds of friends I met on the road, sometimes in the middle of no where. Their stories will be shared. I will, I must.

Route Outline

• Countries crossed: Kenya-Tanzania-Malawi-Zambia-Namibia
• Total distance Covered: 5333km
• Total distance cycled: 4500km
• Duration: 24 June 2012 to 2 September 2012
• Total number of days: 69 Total days Cycled: 49

Starting point: Nanyuki, Kenya

Finishing Point: Walvis Bay, Namibia

Kenya: (night halt places mentioned only)

Leg 1: Nanyuki- Karatina-Nairobi

Leg 2: Nairobi- Kajiado- Namanga

Tanzania:

Leg 1: Namanga-Ngaramtoni-Moshi-Same-Hedaru-Korogwe-Mkata-Mlandizi-Dar es Salam-(Zanzibar)

Leg 2: Dar es Salam-Morogoro-Mikumi-Kitonga-Iringa-Mafinga-Makambaka-Mbeya

Malawi:

Leg 1: Kyela-Karonga-Chitimba-Ekwendeni-Mzuzu

Leg 2: Mzuzu-Kasungu-Mponela-Lilongwe

Leg 3: Lilongwe- Mchinji

Zambia:

Leg 1: Chipata-Luangwa bridge-Mphyansa Turn off-Chinyunyu Hot spring-Lusaka

Leg 2: Lusaka- Monze-Choma-Zimba-Livingstone-Victoria falls-Sesheke

Namibia:

Leg 1: Katima mulilo-Divundu-Rundu

Leg 2:-Rundu- Mururani Gate-Roys Camp- Kalkfontein-Otavi-Otjiwarongo

Leg3:-Windhoek-Okahandja-Karibib- Vergenoeg-Swakopmund-Walvis Bay 

Indian Press Reports:

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-09-02/others/33547884_1_cycle-expedition-mountaineer-moments

Before it begins: A toast to my friends

It has taken me six (though very short) web logs to write something close to a prologue about my plans to undertake a long journey in Africa. Through them I have also tried to justify why I have this pathological need to experience Africa on a bicycle, alone. It was always in there, in me, this bohemian ‘me’, always wanting, craving to wander. And partly it is Mr. Tilman to blame, I guess.

My heart is full of excitement. I am excited in anticipation of the vastness of the unknown factors that lay ahead. Factors that will govern and dictate the fate of my journey. Factors that I cannot possibly imagine may be! And that is what making me alive, again.

In this episode I would like to mention my friends without whom my dream for this African journey would not have turned into a reality. People without whose support the stalemate of the mundane would have carried on and on.

First of all, it is, Mr. Sabyasachi Talukdar, the CEO and Editor, of Uttarbanga Sambad (www.uttarbangasambad.com) for believing in my project and extending invaluable financial support. Without his help the fate of my Africa dreams would have been seriously compromised.

With Mr. Sabyasachi Talukdar in his office at Kolkata

I will be contributing my articles, as I travel, in Bengali, to ‘Uttarbanga Sambad’ regularly. This daily newspaper is also available online.

I will be updating my blog, as and when I get a chance. For those who wish to follow me in English; this blog is the place.

The next person I must mention is Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya. In spite of his busy surgery schedule in C.M.R.I, Kolkata, he was always extremely enthusiastic about my project and gone out of his way to help me; from finding contacts in cities that I will be travelling through to planning my route. I owe a great deal to him; not just because of the enthusiasm and support for Africa, but also for doing a damn good lung surgery on me back in 2010. For me it is truly the second innings of my life! I am grateful. 

with Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya, during one of our many map study sittings in Kolkata

Next is Sri Biswanath Dasgupta, or should I say ‘BDG’. Through his messages and blogs he has been outstandingly inspiring; to many like me I am sure.

Then my old friend Martin Muecke, with whom I had raced in Elbrus (2008) and climbed Manirang (2009) and Satopanth (2011). He is truly a good friend and I am indebted to him for his support and help. 

Martin Muecke, at Nandanvan, on our way down from Satopanth, July 2011

And of course, my new mountain friend Ananth whom I met in Kalanag a few weeks back; his gesture of support touched my heart. 

with Ananth at Seema on our way out of Kalanag

Tomorrow I leave for Nairobi, Kenya. I will be flying to Mumbai tomorrow afternoon and then catch the Nairobi flight on very early morning of 21st June.

Today, as it happens, it’s my birthday and I have just turned 42. Now that I am officially middle aged, let’s begin this journey with a toast to all my friends. I wish I could play that Joe Cocker number for all of you. You know which one I am talking about: “...with a little help from my friend”...of course!

Cheers!


"...What would you do if I sang out of tune,
Would you stand up and walk out on me.
Lend me your ears and I'll sing you a song,
And I'll try not to sing out of key.
Oh I get by with a little help from my friends,
Mmm,I get high with a little help from my friends,
Mmm, I'm gonna try with a little help from my friends."

Prologue to Africa Part VI

A break from ‘my’ known and ‘my’ obvious

“ ...does your enthusiasm hold good only for mountaineering?’

‘By and large I do everything with enthusiasm, as long as it doesn’t concern bureaucracy, which I hate like the plague.’

Is there another climb to come?’

‘I would like to travel to Tibet, to South America, I would like to experience so many countries, get to know so many areas..."

The above conversation takes place somewhere in Cologne, Germany in 1979. Questions asked by anonymous public, answers given by none other than Reinhold Messner. (Source: Crystal Horizon, Reinhold Messner, p.60)

Today mountaineering is the only activity I can put to practice and use it to earn bread for my family. But it is not just livelihood. It was never just about work. I am passionate about it. That is why I had left a job in the Pharmaceutical Industry in the first place.

8 hectic years in pharmaceutical marketing was enough to suffocate and slow poison me. I had quit without even thinking or planning. I wanted out.

Mountains gave me the true sense of freedom, of a life so different and distant from the smog covered skyline of Belur, a suburb of West Bengal, where I was born and brought up.

Over the past decade or so I have participated in more than 30 mountaineering ventures in the Indian Himalaya. I was never a mere participant in those expeditions. I was the brain, one of the foot soldiers; and most of the time a responsible leader.

That brings the statistics to an average of 3 expeditions a year. May be for a few of my friends this average is poor; but for me it has been an exhausting journey. Rewarding, but exhausting at the same time.

Rewarding, because with each expedition, irrespective of getting my members to the summit and getting them down safe; I grew up a little, learnt something new and above all made new friends. And to add to that, I must mention my biggest reward has been working with the Sherpa community of Darjeeling. The roles of one of my comrade in Adventure Mania- Thendup Sherpa have been enormously significant. He is more than family, and without him Adventure Mania seems incomplete to me. With Thendup I share many of my favourite adventures in the Indian Himalaya and I am sure will have many more.

Exhausting, because, every repetitive action must bring monotony to the actor. It is only a matter of time and eventuality. For me the question was when and how?

This business of offering mountaineering services was quickly becoming a mundane affair. Surely there was no ‘zen’ to be found on top of a mountain and especially on a day when a tailor-make fashion seems to work just fine. From Mt Blanc to Mount Everest, this is the trend and it seems like it is here to thrive. I am talking about commercially guided expeditions of course.

I have no problem with this trend. After all, this is also my livelihood. I just need a break. Break from the known and the obvious. A break from ‘my’ known and ‘my’ obvious. My soul is in constant search for the new and is dreaming to venture out in the unknown.

And if you are slaves of your own dreams what do you do? You follow your dreams no matter what height, depth or distance it takes you.

For me, this time, it is beckoning me to Africa. The first spark of inspiration came from none other than my Guru in Himalayan exploration, H.W.Tilman.

In 2011, I had travelled and explored in the Indian Himalaya following his footprints; once while achieving the first ascent of Zemu Gap from south and the other while charting a new passage on the Nanda Devi Sanctuary wall. Now I see Tilman’s signature across Equator in Africa.

I have already talked about my Nanda Devi and Zemu Gap trips in my past blog ( Blanks on the Map) : http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.in/2012/05/prologue-to-africa-part-iv.html

After twenty years of mountain exploration, Tilman bought the first of three wooden pilot cutters he was to own, and set about teaching himself to sail. He then voyaged nearly every year for more than a quarter century to the frigid waters of the Antarctic and Arctic in search of new mountains to climb and places blank on the map.

As a young gunner officer he had served in France in the First War and won the Military Cross and a bar, being twice wounded; and in the Second War gained the Distinguished Service Order for his outstanding work in Italy and Albania with the partisans. Between the wars he had run a coffee plantation in Kenya, and with Eric Shipton from a neighbouring farm he had done some pioneer climbing on Mount Kenya. His time in Africa terminated characteristically with a bicycle ride across the continent and an ascent of Kilimanjaro en route. This was recorded in his book Snow on the Equator.

With a bicycle across the equator, enough to fire up any adventurer’s imagination and I am no exception.

I too want to travel across Africa on a bicycle, except, my path will be slightly different. I will start from the Equator at Nanyuki, Kenya and finish my journey at Walvis Bay, near the tropic of Capricorn, Namibia. I have to travel nearly 5000km and across 6 countries. Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. I will take my bike along and yes I will be on my own. Now isn’t that something to look forward to? What could be a better way to touch one’s Guru’s soul than taking the path shown by him?

End of part VI
End of Prologue to Africa

Prologue to Africa Part V

When mountains become a mundane monotony

In the last episode of my blog (Prologue to Africa Part IV: Blanks on the map) I had talked about the exploratory trips that I had undertaken in 2011. But surely there were more to 2011 than just those three.

In July 2011, my old friend Martin Muecke and I dreamt of climbing Mount Satopanth (7075m). Michael Kohler joined in and the team became threesome.

Together with our Sherpa support team we were only 6 people ( Martin, Michael, Thendup, Lakpa, Mingma and myself) trying to get our way up the summit of Satopanth in a lightweight style and everything went well till the summit day.

After pitching our base camp in Vasuki Tal; we had set up an ABC and two further and higher camps putting us strategically located for the summit bid. On the summit day heavy smog engulfed us and the forecast ahead was of long, heavy snow days. We decided to turn back within 100m of the summit with not so happy faces.

Satopanth had other surprises in store.

While working our way up the mountain, on one of the load ferry days to the Advanced Base; Martin and I spotted something odd at the bottom of a moraine slope. When we got closer it was evident that we had stumbled upon an accident site.

It was a crushed, collapsed tent and from its torn areas emerged human body parts. I decided to get a closer look as I knew this could be the unfortunate lost trekkers (2010) of Kalindi Khal. Soon I was close and decided to open one of the backpacks in order to find some sort of identification. I requested Martin to take photographs as I opened one of the backpacks. Out came a plastic bag in which I soon found out an Indian flag along with a certain club flag (HDMLA). I was now sure that these 'were' the lost trekkers of kalindi.

Here is a link to that story as unfolded by the Indian media. They got my name wrong of course but close though! They called me "Alind Mukherjee"! They could have easily written " A blind Mukherjee" and later call it a typo! I like that!

http://ibnlive.in.com/generalnewsfeed/news/bodies-of-missing-trekkers-spotted-in-upper-himalayas/754769.html

It was a heavy feeling. I remember both me and Martin were in tears at the first shocking sight and for many nights after that whenever I closed my eyes the unfortunate and the dead visited.

I made sure that the news of sighting of their bodies reaches Kolkata as fast as possible hoping to start a process of recovery of the dead bodies for the last rights.

Much later, after the expedition to Satopanth was over and I had reached home myself; I saw a race (by a handful of West Bengal mountaineers) to claim publicity over the sad affair. Everyone was trying to present their case in a fashion that the credit of finding the poor souls belonged to them alone.

To those friends of mine I would like to say, I never seek any credit or glory in stumbling upon the unfortunate souls. I rather feel warned like a soft, yet cold deadly whisper; that I could be next. (I have intentionally not added any photographs of the lost trekkers here.)

The mountains and these relentless theatricals of climbing them were quickly becoming a mundane monotony for me and I wished for an escape.

The opportunity of getting away from the Indian Himalaya came in August 2011 as Rajeev Ranjan wanted to climb Mont Blanc and decided to take me along as his guide. Rajeev’s friend Bhavin Gandhi joined the party and soon we met in Chamonix.

We attempted Mont Blanc by the Gouter route. High wind stopped us from reaching its summit. Rajeev and me turned back from the Valot refuge. After a couple of days I climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul, a beautiful climb from the Aigle du Midi. That is another story but it was still not the escape I was longing for.

Prologue to Africa Part IV

Blanks on the map

2011 has been a special year for me. The year was special because it had given me opportunities to focus on a few blanks on the map around great mountains such as Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. It had given me opportunities to concentrate on solving exploratory problems that existed in the mountains near me. My first objective was to force a route through the Rukel- Rongyoung gorge systems of North Sikkim (March 2011). J Claude White, the first British political officer to Sikkim had pioneered this route back in 1890. After White, the same route was repeated by Harold Raeburn (1920) and Bill Tilman(1936).

In March 2011, we wanted to do their route in reverse and thus rediscovering (and taking first ever photographs) the Rukel- Rongyoung river and valley systems. It was a great success and a stepping stone for our successive expeditions later that year (November and December) to the elusive Zemu Gap (a long standing problem on the great east spur of Kangchenjunga). The March expedition would pave way to our further success on ascending Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier (December 2011) and thus making its first documented climb ever to be done from its southern flanks.

Expedition Mayel Lyang: through the trackless vale of tears: March 2011

Our expedition went through catchments, rivers, mountains and villages that are deeply associated with Lepcha heritage and their cultural tradition. The area (Dzongu), the river (Ronggyaong) and the mountain (Kangchenjunga); all of them suggested the land and its people were intertwined   harmoniously with each other and were inseparable. The mountains, rivers, cliffs all have Lepcha names. Almost all of them have a story to tell for themselves. This land, surrounded by the snows of Paki Chu, Pandim, Kanchenjunga, Simvu, and Siniolchu is “Mayel Lyang”- the sanctum sanctorum of Lepcha Heritage.

‘Mayel Lyang’ is a Lepcha term that literally means “mythical paradise” or “hidden paradise”. It is also referred to as ‘Ancient Sikkim’ by the Lepcha. They believe their immortal ancestors still live in the snows of Kangchenjunga, hidden. We appropriately decided to call this journey as the “Expedition Mayel Lyang”.

The “Sikkim Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011” succeeded in exploring and completing a journey across the unknown and undocumented areas of Rukel and Ronggyaong river catchments. It took us eleven days in total on the Talung side and just two days to cross the Guicha La divide and reach the road head of Yoksum. It is possible to make a trail in the Rongyoung-Rukel side. This endeavour would not only open up new adventure avenues and mountaineering destinations, but also probably will put an end to unwarranted poaching.

The full account of this journey can be found in Himalayan Journal Vol 67 and a brief report in the American Alpine Journal through the following link:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/sikkim/2011-in-the-footsteps-of-john-claude-white-and-photography-of-unclimbed-peaks-by-lindsay-griffin-mountain-info-from-information-provided-by-anindya-mukherjee/

The Deotoli Col: to the Realm of the Blessed Goddess- September 2012

Our objective was to explore the Northern spurs of Bethartoli Himal (North Summit 6352m, South Summit 6318m) with an eye to find an alternative passage on the barrier wall of Nanda Devi Sanctuary  . Bethartoli Himal is located due north of Trisul I. We were looking for a couple of low and accessible points on Bethartoli’s two Northerly spurs. Bethartoli North has a satellite peak on its North Ridge. From this satellite peak two spurs originate and descend towards Rishi Ganga due North.

We were able to locate two feasible cols of the northerly spurs of Bethartoli Himal and climb them. We were the first party to locate and climb them. These two cols did not require any climbing skills. Any seasoned himalayan trekker will be able to visit them. Obeying the law of the land we did not set foot on the valley floor or enter the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We stood on its barrier rim and retraced our trail back. From an explorer’s point of view we hope our explored cols will join the list of previously known passes and cols of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.

For detailed report click here:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.in/2011/10/deotoli-col-to-realm-of-blessed-goddess.html

For news in the American alpine Journal click here:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2012/04/india-dudh-ganga-col-5350m-and-deotoli-col-5400m-first-ascents-by-anindya-mukherjee/

Zemu Gap from South: the first documented ascent

The history of exploration around Kangchenjunga, especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinated me. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, Harold Raeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. The height of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’s account in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap from south in 1936.

The primary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote & complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. To add to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next level of exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is said to have made its first ascent from south; but he did not take any photographs! To me and my long time expedition partner Thendup Sherpa; all the above factors seemed highly intriguing and certainly worth investigating.

To start the exploration process, we repeated Claude White’s route of July 1890, in reverse, forcing up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu gorges to connect Mangan, north Sikkim with Yoksum, West Sikkim in March 2011 ( Mayel Lyang Expedition: mentioned above). This success had reinforced our confidence and we were ready to have an attempt on Zemu Gap from south, a long standing problem in mountaineering history around Kangchenjunga. In November, 2011, we crossed Guicha La, went down Talung glacier to set up a high camp on Tongshyong. But a 5 day long snow storm stopped us from approaching Zemu Gap. We went down the Rukel-Rongyong gorges to Mangan. Finally in December 2011, we were successful in climbing Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier, i.e. south.

For a detailed report on the first ascent of Zemu Gap from south you can visit this link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.in/2012/01/zemu-gap-from-south-first-documented.html

One successful exploration after another is certain to set things in motion; especially for a wandering nomad like me. 2011 was over and newer inspirations were at work. This time it is beckoning me from a distant land. My heart tells me it will still be an exploratory journey by nature. This exploration however will not involve discovering a new pass or making a first ascent; but more towards the spirit of discovering myself, facing my fears and learning to overcome them. Africa calling.


But before taking that leap I must also mention the curious case of lost trekkers of Kalindi Khal, an expediton to Mount Satopanth with my friend Martin Muecke and a trip to the Mont Blanc massif with Rajeev Ranjan and Bhavin Gandhi, all of which were also part of 2011. But for all that my readers have to wait till Part V of my Prologue to Africa. 

End of Part IV

14^th May 2012

Prologue to Africa: Part III

Rebirth in the hills: From the heartland of Garhwal to Unknown Spiti

Kuari Pass trek and the Singekang Expedition

Dunagiri and Nandadevi from Gorson top

The Kuari pass is a wonderful trail offering a grand panoramic view of many of the famous Himalayan summits like Chaukhamba 7138m, Nilkantha 6596m, Dunagiri 7066m, Kamet 7756m, Mana 7272m, Trishul 7120m and Nandaghunti 6309m and of course Nanda Devi (7816m) and yet just the trek one would like to take if he/she is taking their first steps in this “devabhumi”-the land of Gods, Garhwal.

Ronti, Trisul and Nandaghunti

By mid October, 2010, after overcoming massive landslides en route our team was in Auli, the starting point of our trek. The sight of Dunagiri and Nanda Devi was simply out of this world. For me it was like a rebirth in the hills. With every bout of violent cough I had, I knew I have come so far and there was no stopping. The mountains at night and at dawn were silent witness of my struggle (it was around those hours the nasty coughing bouts would visit me and stay with me for some time) for recovery and I felt blessed to be there beneath their shadow. I was also in good company. Arindamda ( Arindam Mukherjee), supportive as he always was, stood by my side from the hospital days to the meadows of Gorson. His friends (Bill Goers, Francois Lecerf, Madame Lecerf) and family (Sipra Mukherjee and Ruku) never let me feel like an outsider, a mere guide. It was an extended family out on a Himalayan hike. I will always have fond memories of Kuari Pass.

team posing on top of Kuari Pass

This Kuari Pass trek gave me another opportunity to check my lung performance and over all recovery once again. It was like a second level check after my days in Tumling, on the Singalila Ridge the month before and acted as a stepping stone prior to the dry and cold days of Singekang Expedition ahead. 

Singekang gorge

I knew what lay ahead of me in terms of Spiti and the job of exploring a completely unknown terrain. It certainly was not going to be easy for the following factors:

1-      Nothing was known about the valley we wanted to penetrate and hoped to climb the 6000m mountain at its head, Singekang. No one had gone there before us.

2-      The time of our expedition being end of October and through November, we knew this would be particularly cold

3-      We will have real hard time in finding porters

All the above fears came to be true. But in the end we overcame all odds because we were lucky to have an extra ordinary team. Alan’s (Alan Tees, then president of Mountaineering Ireland) mature leadership style and Jeremy’s (Dr Jeremy Windsor) experience had a synergistic effect on the rest of us (George Carleton, Sandra Kennedy, Andrew Tees, Martin Boner, Thendup Sherpa, and I).

high camp Singekang Expedition

No porters could be persuaded to work with us in spite of the intervention of my good friend Tsering Lara. I cannot blame them for that. Porters expect and need a trail. We did not have any. For many days my Sherpa crew and all the members had to force a route and ferry loads through the cold, unstable gorge of the Singekang stream and we eventually managed to set up a BC almost half way up the valley.

I had no plans to climb to the summit but managed to reach the high camp, while rest of the team put up a bold attempt on Singekang. During the assault, Jeremy got his toes frostbitten ( a legacy of Everest for him) and together with Andrew, I got down quickly to the road head Poh and then to Kaza, so that Jeremy can get to warmer and lower places soon. The rest of the team did a first ascent of a 5500m peak. Not a bad show after all!

Singekang, the ridge attempted is in the centre

One can read a brief report of Singekang Expedition 2010 in the link provided here:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/himachal-pradesh/2010-singekang-snaght-kang-by-j-windsor/

My coughs did not fade away though. The coughing bouts seemed to last longer and grew violent sometimes with traces of blood coming out. Jeremy assured me that coughing in this high altitude was the best exercise I could give to my recovering lungs and that felt real good therapy to me!

my special room in the sakya abode hotel at kaza

2010 was coming to an end and what a year it had been! I had been close to death, a very painful one and before the year was over I was fortunate to be back on the mountains and the life I live for. I was already looking forward to new adventures. Work was not looking up in the first few months of 2011 and that gave me an opportunity to venture and plan out on some of my own projects - explorations around two of Indian Himalaya’s most admired mountain ranges, Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. Singekang remains unclimbed to this day. I have not had a chance to go back since. May be some day soon I will.

End of Part III                                                 

10^th May, 2012