Trans Africa on a bicycle: solo: a tribute to H.W.Tilman

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[A solo bicycle journey from the Equator to Tropic of Capricorn and from East Coast (Indian Ocean) to West Coast (Atlantic Ocean) through the African continent]

 H.W.Tilman’s journey across Africa along the equator on a bicycle back in 1932-33; inspired me to get out there and begin my very own Trans African  bicycle adventure.

Instead of retracing or repeating Tilman’s route I however preferred a route of my own. I would start from the Equator in Kenya and finish near the Tropic of Capricorn. Instead of heading down south in a straight line (as the road network would permit of course); I decided to touch the east coast of the African continent in Dar Es Salam. By doing so my route got an added value of East Coast to West Coast traverse along with the primary goal of Equator to Capricorn journey.



My route would take me through the Kenyan Highlands, Great Rift Valley, the Masaai Steppe, Foothills of Mt Kenya, Mt Meru and Mt Kilimanjaro, The Usambara Mountains, Coastal regions of Tanga, historical town and port of Dar Es Salam ( and Zanjibar), Mikumi National Park, The Udzungua Mountains, the great Ruaha river, forests of Sao Hill, hills of Mbeya, Lake Malawi, Livingstonia mountains, Tobacco growing regions of Kasungu, the great east road in Zambia, Luangwa river, Victoria falls, the Zambezi plains, Caprivi strip, Okavango river, Okavango flood plain, Bushman’s land, Trans Kalahari Highway, the Namib desert and finally to the Atlantic coast in Walvis Bay and Swakopmund.   

Kenya
My journey started (which I would rather call a pilgrimage) from the town of Nanyuki in Kenya. This town is located a tiny bit north of the imaginary line of the equator in the foothills of Mt Kenya.

Starting my ride on 24th June, 2012 from Nanyuki, I reached Nairobi in two days with an overnight stop at Karatina. Another 2 days ride brought me to the Tanzanian border town of Namanga.

Tanzania

From Namanga I rode through Arusha, Moshi, and instead of going straight down to Dodoma, I took the road to Dar Es Salam. After reaching Dar and a quick visit to the historical stone town in the island of Zanzibar; I was back on the road again. This time I was on the Morogoro- Mbeya road.



Malawi
I entered Malawi from Tanzania by the Kyela border post and continued to the town of Karonga located on the shores of Lake Malawi.  After Chitimba I crossed the mountains of Livingstonia, Chiweta coal mines area; and after spending a night in Ekwendeni I reached Mzuzu. Passing through the Viphya forest region, Kasungu and Mponela I arrived Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi.





Zambia

From Lilongwe I entered Zambia by the Mchinji- Chipata border post. From Chipata I was on the great east road of Zambia and for the next couple of days I passed through some of the most mountainous and spectacular scenery.   Reaching Lusaka I took a few days rest and soon back on the road to Livingstone and the Victoria Falls.






Namibia

I entered Namibia from Zambia through the Sesheke border and moved on to the town of Katima Mulilo on the same day. In next two days I crossed the Caprivi Strip and reached Rundu. Rundu to Otjiwarongo was another very long, dry, windy and tiring, yet beautiful stretch in my entire Trans Africa route.

The last leg of my cycling was from Windhoek to the port town of Walvis Bay, where I reached on the morning of 2nd September 2012. It took me 69 days in total to complete the journey, out of which 20 days were either rest days or used for other travel related purpose.
The total distance covered is approximately 5333km (as per google maps) out of which I had cycled 4500km in 49 days. The rest 833km I had used various forms of public transport or hitchhiked due to security reasons; which were sometimes wild life, sometimes other threats.


acknowledgments

The invaluable support from Mr. Sabyasachi Talukdar, Editor and CEO, Uttarbanga Sambad ( a Bengali Newspaper) made this adventure financially feasible for me. I am also indebted to Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya for his relentless, meticulous, unconditional support before and during the trip. Last but not the least are my friends Arindam Mukherjee, Ananth HV and Martin Mucke. They lend me a helping hand whenever I was heading for a shortfall in my budget. I am grateful! 

I also want to extend my sincere thanks to Regina Makirika (Ngaramtoni-Arusha),Rachel (Moshi), Elyoroma(Same) Ahmed Khan (Dar Es Salam), Shaunak Ganguly (Lilongwe), Partha Chaudhury (Lilongwe) for letting me stay in their houses and feeding me for more than just a day! 

In this journey I learnt that a friend is never too far away. They are always there when you need one. 


Therefore, this may have been a trip inspired by my Himalayan Guru H.W.Tilman; but I would like to dedicate this journey to the hundreds of friends I met on the road, sometimes in the middle of no where. Their stories will be shared. I will, I must.


Route Outline
  • Countries crossed: Kenya-Tanzania-Malawi-Zambia-Namibia
  • Total distance Covered: 5333km
  • Total distance cycled: 4500km
  • Duration: 24 June 2012 to 2 September 2012
  • Total number of days: 69 Total days Cycled: 49

Starting point: Nanyuki, Kenya
Finishing Point: Walvis Bay, Namibia

Kenya: (night halt places mentioned only)

Leg 1: Nanyuki- Karatina-Nairobi
Leg 2: Nairobi- Kajiado- Namanga

Tanzania:

Leg 1: Namanga-Ngaramtoni-Moshi-Same-Hedaru-Korogwe-Mkata-Mlandizi-Dar es Salam-(Zanzibar)
Leg 2: Dar es Salam-Morogoro-Mikumi-Kitonga-Iringa-Mafinga-Makambaka-Mbeya

Malawi:

Leg 1: Kyela-Karonga-Chitimba-Ekwendeni-Mzuzu
Leg 2: Mzuzu-Kasungu-Mponela-Lilongwe
Leg 3: Lilongwe- Mchinji

Zambia:

Leg 1: Chipata-Luangwa bridge-Mphyansa Turn off-Chinyunyu Hot spring-Lusaka
Leg 2: Lusaka- Monze-Choma-Zimba-Livingstone-Victoria falls-Sesheke

Namibia:

Leg 1: Katima mulilo-Divundu-Rundu
Leg 2:-Rundu- Mururani Gate-Roys Camp- Kalkfontein-Otavi-Otjiwarongo
Leg3:-Windhoek-Okahandja-Karibib- Vergenoeg-Swakopmund-Walvis Bay 

Indian Press Reports:
http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-09-02/others/33547884_1_cycle-expedition-mountaineer-moments

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