Short Explorations & Unlimited Adventures in North Sikkim
The Burtuk Detox
I first met Rajeev Ranjan in the crowded humid platform of Sealdah. For the past few months, we had known each other through emails. But now that he is actually there, waiting to board the Darjeeling Mail, it was finally happening. We were off to North Sikkim. For yet another adventure of the unknown. An exploration trek was ahead of us in the uncharted catchments of the upper Ringi Chu valley. In to a great valley guarded by the Eastern flanks of a so called beauty- Siniolchu and Lama Angden, the mountain in meditation. But now, at that very moment, all I wanted was a good night’s sleep. The thrill and excitement of exploration can wait! I felt exactly that way. Because mountains and adventure are part of my job and I do deserve my day’s rest. Don’t I?
This happens to me all the time. For months ahead any scheduled adventure trip, I have email contacts with potential clients. Gradually these emails add up to a conversation and I start anticipating. Generally by the tune of their mails, the way any person frame a sentence; you can sort of build up a sketch of that person at other end of those emails. This is very important because, I will be spending days and nights with this unknown guy; trying to help him achieve his dream adventure. And what is may be a perfect adventure holiday for him, is a normal business activity for me.
But? Wait a minute! The point that I am trying to make here is not that I am a macho guy who a really has a cool profession! My point is…hey...this can also be a profession, a decent way to earn one’s daily bread! But of course, my intention is to inspire; not to push my readers in to boredom. So here comes the story…
That very night, somehow I did not have a relaxing sleep. Not even a short nap. Spending a whole night, in a noisy sleeper coach, with others blissfully snoring around you, isn’t easy! Specially, if the following day’s drive to Burtuk turns out to be an equally torturous 5 hours; does not make your life exactly comfortable either! Well, so far my life and business does not seem to be very cool, right? Wrong!
Everything started to cool down from that evening in Burtuk. After a few bouts of Tyongba, everything started to fall in to places. I could see clearly now. I could think straight and I could plan of the job ahead. This is what I call detoxification. Detoxification of one’s soul from the poisons of our mundane life. It was not just the drink, you see, it’s the fresh mountain air, the thought that I will be able to stay away from the social toxins for the next couple of weeks, had their synergistic effect on me. And I was ready!
The Next Step
The next step was a drive. A drive to Mangan, the district head quarters of North Sikkim. 3 hours on dusty, bumpy road, and we were in Mangan bazaar. The area where we were venturing in to is locally known as Dzongu. And to enter we needed a special permit. A few hours passed, and we had that invaluable piece of paper called the “Permit”! We were all relieved as without that piece of paper our adventure could very well end in Mangan bazaar. Sharing our joy of relief was Zamyong Lepcha. Zamyong and old friend is the son of Bhutia Tsering Lepcha. B.T. Lepcha is the head master of Lingzya village, our road head for the trek up Ringi Chu Valley.
Some shopping in the Mangan bazaar and were off in Zamyong’s jeep towards Lingzya village.25 kms took 1 hour. It was like returning home. The warmth in our host’s hearts reflected in their hospitality. Next morning after a hearty breakfast, we were ready to take on 20 km uphill track up to Tholung Gompa. Long, sweaty day. Starting from less than msl 4000ft. at the end of the day we were at 8160ft. 7 hours later we left Lingzya we reached the ancient monastery of Tholung. Had a very interesting afternoon spent with the Head Lama; popularly called as “Myong Thiung”. In Lepcha language Myong Thiung means the ‘Old Man of the Village’. Myong Thiung is actually a very high priest in the Gyelukpa sect in Sikkim.
Sips of ‘Chhang’ and stories dating back decades added enough mystery and charm in our adventure ahead. At night, before hitting the sack, I was lost in thought. I thought and wondered about the Valley we were about to explore.
The Plan Divine
Talung - the name itself is fascinating. It brings an air of the unknown. The mystery; the thrill; the magnetism; the challenge of the unknown. Perhaps that’s why we were there. The Zumthul Phuk Glacier, which only exists on a map. Kishong la, a rarely visited high mountain pass! Tholung Gompa- an eighteenth century Buddhist Monastery where ancient relics of Guru Rimpoche is protected along with a mummy of a dead King! Of Lama Angden, the mountain that crowns the head of the valley overlooks the pristine Kishong Lake, in meditation for ever. Everything seemed like parts of a divine plan! Next morning, the sky was clear. We trekked thorough real dense greenery. The jungle became more and more awe inspiring. It seemed as if it kept so many secrets from us. We the tiny dots soon became refreshing blood suppliers to the thousands of leeches. Tell you what; these blood thirsty creatures did not fit in my divine plan at all! No way!
After 4 and ½ hours we reached Temrong and soon we crossed a log bridge on Zumthul Chu and found our nights shelter in a Yak Hut. Soon we had a fire going and to our extreme relief, no more leech! Thank God!
Zumthul Phuk: Of Guts and Glory
Back in Tholung Gompa, we had heard about a barrier, a big black rock wall that guards all possible entrances to the unknown Zumthul Phuk valley. The story of this “Wall” had dampened some of our spirits, but we did not give Zumthul Phuk an walk over as yet. Because, from the maps we knew, that a big glacier exists at the head of this roaring Zumthul Chu and that glacier is born from the SE flanks of Siniolchu. No human being, including the Lepcha hunters of Dzongu has ever dared in to this valley! That evening Zamyong’s uncle joined us and strengthened our small team.
Next morning, we prepared ourselves with food and gear and entered the virgin forests of Zumthul Phuk. The basic idea of navigation was to stay close to the river course and go upstream. Simple it may sound; but it turned out to be an extremely dangerous and difficult affair! We crossed 19 streams as we forced our way up the true left of Zumthul Chu. We traversed numerous rock bands. Moist, damp rock bands, some of them were exposing us strait down hundreds of feet to the mighty river. And then we faced the ‘barrier’. With the very first glance at the rock wall we could chalk out a route. And we climbed that blasted rock with great zeal. The monster of the ‘barrier’ seemed to be kind to us. We peeled off thick layers of moss from the rock surface and found our foot and hand holds. It was interesting! May be that was an under statement. Doing a free climb in an uncharted territory is definitely more than just ‘interesting’!
For eight long hours we forced our way upstream. Sometimes tackling the wet slabs, sometimes hanging shakily from the rhododendron branches and finally building a log bridge over Zumthul Chu; we managed to reach a point from where we could see the peaks of Zumthul Phuk. I took bearings and could spot ourselves on the map. Standing on top of a big boulder on the true right bank of Zumthul Chu; we could see that how close to the snout of Zumthul Phuk we were. I took some snaps in steadily deteriorating weather and visibility. One of the members had a nasty fall and a miraculous escape from getting blown away by the cascading river. Another 5 hours, and we were back in the Yak hut. A long day indeed!
What we discovered from our short adventure in Zumthul Phuk is precious! A glacier is out there, waiting for explorers and climbers to play for the very first time. The climbers or explorers whosoever they are; will of course need a load of guts to reach the glacier. And then only they can expect glory! Because all the peaks are awaiting their first ascents.
Darkness came. With it came peace. As if our aspirations also needed a bed to crash. But a creature came very close to our shelter and was curious about us inside. Next morning from its droppings we could figure that it was a Himalayan Black Bear! We were glad that the bear did not decide to explore our shaky shelter! We felt like trespassers in their sanctuary. It was time to move toward our next destination- Kishong La.
Kishong La: The Pass of Demons and Demigods
Rain, rain, and more rain. The time we had chosen, may be was not just right! But who the hell cares; especially when you are drenched to the bones. We pushed ahead, ignoring the continuous shower. No matter what, we will give it a go! And that was it. The trail conditions worsened. Uphill all the way for 2 hours and reached small meadow called Labyok (11000ft) - an abandoned Yak Hut. Another hour of uphill struggle and we were in Thijom. Lower portions of the Dawathang Valley and a glimpse of Ringi Lama were visible. Thijom is around 12000ft. We looked beyond and a big rock wall guarded our view. It reminded me of the Great Baranco Wall of Kilimanjaro. Our route lay ahead up that giant wall. But as we approached the wall, a narrow, serpent trail appeared. Surprisingly, it turned out to be a nice walk up the wall. A steady gain of 1500 ft and we reached the alpine meadows of Thalakpe (13600ft). A night was spent in the log hut of Thalakpe. To the locals it is also known as the Kishong Hut. It was nice to be in dry clothes and enjoy a nice warm dinner by the fire.
Our senses became wide awake next morning; as we waded knee-deep icy stream of the Kishong Chu. A great green wide alp was ahead of us. An hour later we reached the camping grounds of Dikithang. We pitched our small 2 person tents beside the Yak herdsmen’s rather big camp.
Next morning, we headed for Kishong La. The higher we climbed; the weather worsened. The word ‘visibility’ sounded like a big fat joke! No point exploring, right? Wrong! We decided to move on. It was difficult to stick to the right path; especially when there isn’t any! But we managed to stay on course and after 4 hours of confusion and determination, reached Kishong La (15600ft).The cairns on the top, a gentle slope rising towards Lama Angden and the Northern slopes rolling down to the Zemu Chu valley. I took some useless foggy snapshots. My friend Zamyong was more than happy to be able to reach Kishong La. From this day I declare you ‘guide’; I joked. Zamyong was a proud Lepcha! He can now boast about in Mangan bazaar for the rest of his life and may be get free booze!
It was time to retrace our steps back to Dikithang camp. My tired, wet pair of legs brought me back to my tent. Soon we were all together, circling around the shepherd’s fire; sipping strong black coffee. The valley wind had risen considerably. We could hear it howling over our rolling laughter. The Shepherd’s wife said, the mountain spirits are not happy, as you humans have ventured in to the sanctum sanctorum of their temple!
A visit to the Yeti Pass
Tell you what; I do not buy that kind of crap any more! Do you think I should? But the next statement coming from her was not that easy to ignore! There’s another mountain pass here. It’s called Mige La, very close to this Yak shed even. Migou (also spelled Migoo sometimes) –s used to whistle from that pass overlooking this yak shed; that’s why we shepherds have named it Mige La (‘La’ means a mountain pass in Bhotia/ Tibetan language). And there was not a shadow of doubt or hesitation in her words when she spoke of the Migou. All the others present in the yak shed nodded to their approval. Yeti, or Migou or the Banmanchi exists; there was no denying the fact.
Now I just learnt a couple of new things from the Shepherd’s wife. One, there exists a mountain pass in the Himalaya named after the famed Migou or Yeti. Two, Yeti’s call is like a whistling note. It may look abominable (!); but it does have a big foot!
So, next morning there I was climbing towards Mige La. Not that I was expecting to make a sudden discovery; the thought of venturing to an uncharted mountain pass was exciting enough for me. It took us two hours to reach Mige La. At an altitude of 4600m, it was snow clad in April. There we found very old cairns on top of the pass, built by the yak herdsmen. Old pile of small boulders and rocks. Old, but prominent. Visibility was as poor as it could be! In spite of that I took some pictures with the cairn and my companions Zamyong and Sukhraj. On the way down Sukhraj pointed towards a strange impression on the snow. It was not big. I thought it might be of a snow leopard, or even a bear. But my companions were quite familiar with leopard or bear pugmarks. They insisted it belonged to none other than the Migou! Well, I still don’t know what it was. But at that moment it felt nice to believe in their words. May be we can come back later with a scientific expedition to this area and find out. But on the way back to my tent, I realized that I have started to believe in the stories of the Shepherd’s wife.
May be some day soon a ‘hominid’, an ape, or a species like the Orang Pendek will be discovered in some less known Himalayan valley. After centuries of climbing and exploring across the Himalaya, vast majority of its glaciers, valleys, small river catchments are still unseen, unknown. It was true that no big mammal was discovered for a long time; but with the finding of Orang Pendek; its time to rethink may be.
Team: Anindya Mukherjee, Subrata Bhattacharjee, Rajeev Ranjan, Rabin Banerjee, Zamyong Lepcha and Sukhraj Gurung. Text: Anindya Mukherjee
Period: March- April 2006
Area: Talung Valley, North Sikkim, India
Information on the Orang Pendek can be found at the following links:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/manchester/3734946.stmhttp://www.jambiexplorer.com/content/orangpendek.htm
