pix from elbrus

here is some pix from that day...

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my elbrus story -1

It was a cold wintry night. I was checking my emails in my Darjeeling flat. A new email from an unknown sender drew my attention. It was about a certain speed climbing up Mount Elbrus! How crazy and wild an idea! It fascinated me and challenged my dreams.

 

After Kilimanjaro in July 2005, Elbrus was always in my mind. I thought of Denali and Elbrus, not knowing to which mountain I would be able to go first. For Denali, I would certainly need a partner; but Elbrus I could climb on my own. Well thats what I thought and am glad now that I was right.

 

And so I replied that email. What followed was a series of email conversation with Yulia. Yulia Chunosova, an executive working for Top Sport Travel of St Petersberg. Together with Russianclimb.com they were organizing this race for the 4th consecutive time.

 

I read the history of Elbrus race and carefully considered the average time done by the former participants. I thought I could complete the race. Although in Himalaya, I dont reccommend climbing more than 600-800m a day;  on occassions, I have climbed 1600m-1800m in day and in good time!

 

The idea of climbing Elbrus was already there, now I had a chance to make it unique by participating in a speed climb. But if I failed to complete and meet all the criterias of the race, I would be in trouble and a second attempt would be a near impossibility due to costs.

 

So, I had one and only one chance. I had to do it. Defeat was not acceptable!

 

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Elbrus SpeedClimb

On September 16, I climbed Elbrus succesfully! It was a very cold and windy day. This strong wind made life hell after the saddle and till the summit. But I must say, that it felt very good to be on top the highest mountain of Europe.

Total participants of the race was 34. During the qulaifuication race on Sep15, some climbers were shortlisted. Total 22 climbers were finalists.Needless to say, I qulaified too.

 I took 1 hour 57 mins and 57 secs to climb 1200m during the qulaification race. We were supposed to get a rest day after the qualification race. But due to bad weather forecast, the main race took place the very next day. This was not good for us, because we did not get any chance to recover at all. On the final day,I was one of the 13 climbers who were able to finish the speed climb. I took 6.30 hours to climb to the top. During the race we had to climb 1900m ( approximately 5800ft) non stop.

I am very glad that I was able to finish the race climb safely and succesfully without any training or idea of what a high altitude mountain race can be. I thankful to all my friends and would be sharing all the photos and information in details soon.

The participants of this race were from Germany, Indonesia, Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Bellarus and India.

In a few hours I am on my way to catch a train to Moscow and then will be back in Calcutta on September 24 morning.

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elbrus

Reached Baidayevo,a tiny village in the foothills of Elbrus. Lovely little place. In a few mintues we will be taken to the opening ceremony of the Elbrus Race and then to the barrels up the mountain. We will have a qulaification climb tomorrow. In the qualification race we have to climb 1200m and back down within 3 hours. Then we have a rest day. I plan to come down to the valley on that day and goback up the mountain again next day. The main competition will be held on Wednesday, if the weather holds.

I have been training,i.e, going up and down the mountain for last two days, so am feeling a bit tired today. have decided to rest in the barrel today, may be walk around a little bit.

Been struggling with Russian food sofar. Hope the barrel food will be better. Russian beer is light though and I have been exploring different brands for last 2 days as well!

I hope to finish the race in good time. Mountain racing, and over 5000m is not my cup of tea. But I think I am always ready for a new challenge and fun!

Hope to get back safe down the mountain after the race and write another update.

cheers!

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Moscow!

I must say,it was a shock even for an Indian, to arrive in Moscow. In short the city is cruel and full of cold hearted people and it IS dangerous at night. So far I have survived. But I have a 30 hour long train ride coming up and I have already contracted a tummy bug! Still looking forward to Elbrus and hope that it will be nice. Hope to write in details about my time n Moscow when I get some time and cheaper internet access.

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Mt Blanc

Back in Chamonix and the Sun is shining again! Not fair on me though! The 3 precious days I had for climbing Mt Blanc had been miserable, weatherwise. Stormy wind, snow, rain, bad visibility! Perfect!

 

But I was succesful to reach just below the summit ( around 4600m), alone and on my own. The wind was 100km/hour and it was not safe to climb on that exposed last section any more. I was quite happy with myself that I went this far and came down safe. All the guided parties turned around from the dome de Gouter and I was not crazy or stupid enough to carry on. I think I still have not lost that sense. The sense to know when one should turn back. I think I still havent forgotten my limit! May be thats what keeping me alive..still!

 

I think looking back climbing the grand couloir to the Gouter hut alone and miserable, has been the highlight in this trip to Mt Blanc. I  learnt to be more composed ( at least while climbing) and patient.

 

I hope to write in detail and put some pix when I get back to India. But now I must get myself mentally prepared for the next part of my adventure.

 

Russia! Elbrus!!!

 

Tomorrow I have long journey to Frankfurt and then fly to Moscow.

 

I know theres a lot of adventure waiting.. a lot of learning too..

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chamonix

Finally after travelling for two days by car and train from
Schmallenberg through Strasbourg and Lyon, reached chamonix this
afternoon. My travel plan is complicated this time as I dont have a
Swiss visa and so I have to detour a lot, and only stay within
Schengen countries.

Found a campsite just outside the village. Went to the mountain office
only to get some discouraging weather forecast. Its going to be bad
weather on Mt Blanc for next two days. So I am going to head off to
the mountain day aftertomorrow and hope that the next will be better.
I only have 4 days to spare here and it will be such a pity if weather
spoils all the fun for me. So far the plan is to climb Mt Blanc by the
Gouter Route. Its the normal route and one can stay in huts. And right
now it's probably the safest.
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