Speed Climbing to Elbrus, 5642 m will be held on September, 17, 2008
Elbrus, the highest peak of Russia and Europe, is a well-known peak of the Caucasus. Its white-snow double-headed peak is beautiful not only as a geographical object, but also as a symbol of the high achievements, grand size, crystal pureness and triumph of its conquerors. Elbrus is located in 12 km from the Main Caucasus Ridge. A high-quality road enables you to get to the foot of the mountain from Mineralnyje Vody Airport, Pjatogorsk and the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik. The regular shape of the volcanic cone and slopes, which are covered with glaciers over 300m high, form a sort of a mountain stadium.
The speed climbing path follows the classical route: Azau clearing – Bochki – Pastukhov’s Rocks – Sedlo – Western Elbrus. During the high days of the Soviet climbing school, the alumnae of which still get the world astonished by their high results in climbing, Elbrus speed climbing competitions were held very frequently and were the elimination competitions for those who wanted to take part in serious expeditions to the Himalayas. In the post-Soviet era Elbrus is visited by a great number of groups of climbers and tourists, both independent and supervised by professional guides, but its opportunities as a mountain for serious sports events are used insufficiently. Meanwhile, in the rest of the world the highlands become more and more popular as a place for speed climbing, but with the routes with smaller altitude change, and thousands of sportsmen take part in the competitions (for example, climbing to Mont blanc, , Mount Rainer, Jungfrau etc.).
In September 2005 TOP SPORT TRAVEL and Information Server for Climbers WWW.RUSSIANCLIMB.COM decided to revive the tradition, which existed before the 90s, Elbrus speed climbing competitions. The pilot event was successfully held on September, 15 2005. Now these competitions are held annually.
The competitions are purposely held in September. According to the multi-year statistics, the weather at that time in Elbrus Region is good and steady, and there should be no be no extensive ice section on the route.
For the majority of people a simple climbing to Elbrus by a classical route is a dream, which is not so easy to come true, because in order to climb this not easy and sometimes severe peak, besides for a good physical training one should acquire strong mountaineering skills. The competition among the strongest sportsmen in the high mountains, fight for the fastest covering the route from the foot of the mountain – Azau clearing (2400 m) – Western Peak (5642 m) is unique and challenging, because nobody in Europe arranges speed climbing competitions with the altitude drop for more than 3000 m. Such fighting will become a great challenge for the participants, as a usual climbing to the peak from Bochki hut, located at 3700m in average takes 7-8 hours, so the competitors have to cover the route from the foot to the peak practically running.
History of Speed Climbing on Elbrus
In the Soviet period speed ascent competitions on Elbrus slopes — from Mir station till Garabashi station and from Priut 11 till the col — were the part of training program for the members of the soviet Himalaya expeditions (1982, 1989). Elbrus was well-known for all seriuos Soviet mountaineers, as the mount's location is very comfortable and its height is enough for the race. It was considered to be a prestigious action — to take part in these races, and the strongest USSR climbers had competed there.
Now the Mount is the object of the International program «7 Summits» (climbing the highest tops of all continents). Elbrus is especially lucky nowdays — in spite it is the part of Caucasus, one can reach its bottom without special frontier guard's permit, the way along Baksan valley is comfortable and safe. Hotels in Terskol, Bochki huts, Priut 11 and the new modern hut some meters higher than Priut — do Elbrus climbs more and more comfortable, and from day to day a lot of groups go to their dream — Elbrus tops. But, exept some events — all of these climbs are of «tourist class». But 15-20 years ago those slopes were the place for serious mountaineers ambitions battles!
Vladimir Balyberdin was the first who had understood the annual Elbrus speed climb Championship perspectives. In 1987 he organized there the first Fall Elbrus Race — from Priut 11 till the col. September was not the occasional choose – it is the best season here. There is no ice on the route usually in September, and the whole way to the tops is more safe than in other seasons. Next races were in 1988 and 1989. Anatoly Boukreev is a legend of that Races — he won in 1990 — and his result was 1 hour 47 min (Priut 11 — East top).
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