Prologue to Africa Part IV

Blanks on the map

2011 has been a special year for me. The year was special because it had given me opportunities to focus on a few blanks on the map around great mountains such as Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. It had given me opportunities to concentrate on solving exploratory problems that existed in the mountains near me. My first objective was to force a route through the Rukel- Rongyoung gorge systems of North Sikkim (March 2011). J Claude White, the first British political officer to Sikkim had pioneered this route back in 1890. After White, the same route was repeated by Harold Raeburn (1920) and Bill Tilman(1936).

In March 2011, we wanted to do their route in reverse and thus rediscovering (and taking first ever photographs) the Rukel- Rongyoung river and valley systems. It was a great success and a stepping stone for our successive expeditions later that year (November and December) to the elusive Zemu Gap (a long standing problem on the great east spur of Kangchenjunga). The March expedition would pave way to our further success on ascending Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier (December 2011) and thus making its first documented climb ever to be done from its southern flanks.

Expedition Mayel Lyang: through the trackless vale of tears: March 2011

Our expedition went through catchments, rivers, mountains and villages that are deeply associated with Lepcha heritage and their cultural tradition. The area (Dzongu), the river (Ronggyaong) and the mountain (Kangchenjunga); all of them suggested the land and its people were intertwined   harmoniously with each other and were inseparable. The mountains, rivers, cliffs all have Lepcha names. Almost all of them have a story to tell for themselves. This land, surrounded by the snows of Paki Chu, Pandim, Kanchenjunga, Simvu, and Siniolchu is “Mayel Lyang”- the sanctum sanctorum of Lepcha Heritage.

‘Mayel Lyang’ is a Lepcha term that literally means “mythical paradise” or “hidden paradise”. It is also referred to as ‘Ancient Sikkim’ by the Lepcha. They believe their immortal ancestors still live in the snows of Kangchenjunga, hidden. We appropriately decided to call this journey as the “Expedition Mayel Lyang”.

The “Sikkim Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011” succeeded in exploring and completing a journey across the unknown and undocumented areas of Rukel and Ronggyaong river catchments. It took us eleven days in total on the Talung side and just two days to cross the Guicha La divide and reach the road head of Yoksum. It is possible to make a trail in the Rongyoung-Rukel side. This endeavour would not only open up new adventure avenues and mountaineering destinations, but also probably will put an end to unwarranted poaching.

The full account of this journey can be found in Himalayan Journal Vol 67 and a brief report in the American Alpine Journal through the following link:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/sikkim/2011-in-the-footsteps-of-john-claude-white-and-photography-of-unclimbed-peaks-by-lindsay-griffin-mountain-info-from-information-provided-by-anindya-mukherjee/

The Deotoli Col: to the Realm of the Blessed Goddess- September 2012

Our objective was to explore the Northern spurs of Bethartoli Himal (North Summit 6352m, South Summit 6318m) with an eye to find an alternative passage on the barrier wall of Nanda Devi Sanctuary  . Bethartoli Himal is located due north of Trisul I. We were looking for a couple of low and accessible points on Bethartoli’s two Northerly spurs. Bethartoli North has a satellite peak on its North Ridge. From this satellite peak two spurs originate and descend towards Rishi Ganga due North.

We were able to locate two feasible cols of the northerly spurs of Bethartoli Himal and climb them. We were the first party to locate and climb them. These two cols did not require any climbing skills. Any seasoned himalayan trekker will be able to visit them. Obeying the law of the land we did not set foot on the valley floor or enter the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We stood on its barrier rim and retraced our trail back. From an explorer’s point of view we hope our explored cols will join the list of previously known passes and cols of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.

For detailed report click here:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.in/2011/10/deotoli-col-to-realm-of-blessed-goddess.html

For news in the American alpine Journal click here:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2012/04/india-dudh-ganga-col-5350m-and-deotoli-col-5400m-first-ascents-by-anindya-mukherjee/

Zemu Gap from South: the first documented ascent

The history of exploration around Kangchenjunga, especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinated me. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, Harold Raeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. The height of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’s account in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap from south in 1936.

The primary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote & complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. To add to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next level of exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is said to have made its first ascent from south; but he did not take any photographs! To me and my long time expedition partner Thendup Sherpa; all the above factors seemed highly intriguing and certainly worth investigating.

To start the exploration process, we repeated Claude White’s route of July 1890, in reverse, forcing up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu gorges to connect Mangan, north Sikkim with Yoksum, West Sikkim in March 2011 ( Mayel Lyang Expedition: mentioned above). This success had reinforced our confidence and we were ready to have an attempt on Zemu Gap from south, a long standing problem in mountaineering history around Kangchenjunga. In November, 2011, we crossed Guicha La, went down Talung glacier to set up a high camp on Tongshyong. But a 5 day long snow storm stopped us from approaching Zemu Gap. We went down the Rukel-Rongyong gorges to Mangan. Finally in December 2011, we were successful in climbing Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier, i.e. south.

For a detailed report on the first ascent of Zemu Gap from south you can visit this link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.in/2012/01/zemu-gap-from-south-first-documented.html

One successful exploration after another is certain to set things in motion; especially for a wandering nomad like me. 2011 was over and newer inspirations were at work. This time it is beckoning me from a distant land. My heart tells me it will still be an exploratory journey by nature. This exploration however will not involve discovering a new pass or making a first ascent; but more towards the spirit of discovering myself, facing my fears and learning to overcome them. Africa calling.


But before taking that leap I must also mention the curious case of lost trekkers of Kalindi Khal, an expediton to Mount Satopanth with my friend Martin Muecke and a trip to the Mont Blanc massif with Rajeev Ranjan and Bhavin Gandhi, all of which were also part of 2011. But for all that my readers have to wait till Part V of my Prologue to Africa. 

End of Part IV

14^th May 2012

Prologue to Africa: Part III

Rebirth in the hills: From the heartland of Garhwal to Unknown Spiti

Kuari Pass trek and the Singekang Expedition

Dunagiri and Nandadevi from Gorson top

The Kuari pass is a wonderful trail offering a grand panoramic view of many of the famous Himalayan summits like Chaukhamba 7138m, Nilkantha 6596m, Dunagiri 7066m, Kamet 7756m, Mana 7272m, Trishul 7120m and Nandaghunti 6309m and of course Nanda Devi (7816m) and yet just the trek one would like to take if he/she is taking their first steps in this “devabhumi”-the land of Gods, Garhwal.

Ronti, Trisul and Nandaghunti

By mid October, 2010, after overcoming massive landslides en route our team was in Auli, the starting point of our trek. The sight of Dunagiri and Nanda Devi was simply out of this world. For me it was like a rebirth in the hills. With every bout of violent cough I had, I knew I have come so far and there was no stopping. The mountains at night and at dawn were silent witness of my struggle (it was around those hours the nasty coughing bouts would visit me and stay with me for some time) for recovery and I felt blessed to be there beneath their shadow. I was also in good company. Arindamda ( Arindam Mukherjee), supportive as he always was, stood by my side from the hospital days to the meadows of Gorson. His friends (Bill Goers, Francois Lecerf, Madame Lecerf) and family (Sipra Mukherjee and Ruku) never let me feel like an outsider, a mere guide. It was an extended family out on a Himalayan hike. I will always have fond memories of Kuari Pass.

team posing on top of Kuari Pass

This Kuari Pass trek gave me another opportunity to check my lung performance and over all recovery once again. It was like a second level check after my days in Tumling, on the Singalila Ridge the month before and acted as a stepping stone prior to the dry and cold days of Singekang Expedition ahead. 

Singekang gorge

I knew what lay ahead of me in terms of Spiti and the job of exploring a completely unknown terrain. It certainly was not going to be easy for the following factors:

1-      Nothing was known about the valley we wanted to penetrate and hoped to climb the 6000m mountain at its head, Singekang. No one had gone there before us.

2-      The time of our expedition being end of October and through November, we knew this would be particularly cold

3-      We will have real hard time in finding porters

All the above fears came to be true. But in the end we overcame all odds because we were lucky to have an extra ordinary team. Alan’s (Alan Tees, then president of Mountaineering Ireland) mature leadership style and Jeremy’s (Dr Jeremy Windsor) experience had a synergistic effect on the rest of us (George Carleton, Sandra Kennedy, Andrew Tees, Martin Boner, Thendup Sherpa, and I).

high camp Singekang Expedition

No porters could be persuaded to work with us in spite of the intervention of my good friend Tsering Lara. I cannot blame them for that. Porters expect and need a trail. We did not have any. For many days my Sherpa crew and all the members had to force a route and ferry loads through the cold, unstable gorge of the Singekang stream and we eventually managed to set up a BC almost half way up the valley.

I had no plans to climb to the summit but managed to reach the high camp, while rest of the team put up a bold attempt on Singekang. During the assault, Jeremy got his toes frostbitten ( a legacy of Everest for him) and together with Andrew, I got down quickly to the road head Poh and then to Kaza, so that Jeremy can get to warmer and lower places soon. The rest of the team did a first ascent of a 5500m peak. Not a bad show after all!

Singekang, the ridge attempted is in the centre

One can read a brief report of Singekang Expedition 2010 in the link provided here:

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/himachal-pradesh/2010-singekang-snaght-kang-by-j-windsor/

My coughs did not fade away though. The coughing bouts seemed to last longer and grew violent sometimes with traces of blood coming out. Jeremy assured me that coughing in this high altitude was the best exercise I could give to my recovering lungs and that felt real good therapy to me!

my special room in the sakya abode hotel at kaza

2010 was coming to an end and what a year it had been! I had been close to death, a very painful one and before the year was over I was fortunate to be back on the mountains and the life I live for. I was already looking forward to new adventures. Work was not looking up in the first few months of 2011 and that gave me an opportunity to venture and plan out on some of my own projects - explorations around two of Indian Himalaya’s most admired mountain ranges, Nanda Devi and Kangchenjunga. Singekang remains unclimbed to this day. I have not had a chance to go back since. May be some day soon I will.

End of Part III                                                 

10^th May, 2012

Prologue to Africa: Part II

Back on feet

22 days (18th July to 8th August 2010) in a hospital bed felt endless! My friends (including my school mates) and family members visited me almost every day. While it was nice to see that I was not alone it was hard to keep the sense of humor breathing in harmony. Future looked uncertain and I was getting restless deep inside.  My wife ‘Sangita’ and son ‘Ananda’ were my motivation in that nadir of my days and I focused myself in getting better.

Cartoon drawn by artist Sri Debasis Deb, who came to visit me quite a few times in the hospital

As soon as I was out of that hospital bed my hopes for getting back to the mountains began to intensify. I was able to walk longer and everyday felt a bit stronger and therefore a bit more confident. Another month passed and the drainage tube attached to my chest was finally removed around the beginning of September. It was around then I realized that if I can be fit by end September 2010, I will have work in October and November.

Prospect of work brought a lot of focus back in me indeed. I am thankful to Arindam Da( Arindam Mukherjee) and Alan Tees for having faith in me. Arindam da was planning to do a trek to Kuari Pass with his friends and family in October and Alan (then President of Mountaineering Ireland) was keen to organize an exploratory mountaineering expedition in the Indian Himalaya right after the Kuari Pass trek would be over. Deadline was set. Paper works and planning for the two back to back trips were on. I would have to be ready for starting the Kuari Pass programme by 10^th October, 2010 and I had just about a month left to check and reaffirm to myself that I am capable of walking a mountain trail, breathe the thin air and not fall sick again. It was time to visit Darjeeling and Tumling.

Darjeeling

Tumling is around 9000ft above msl on the Singalila Ridge and seemed to me the perfect spot to put myself to test. While I could drive up there from Darjeeling via Manebhanjan in 3-4 hours and stay in the comfortable tea-house of ‘Nila Didi’ (Sikhar Lodge); I would be able to take long day walks every day, uphill and downhill, on a trail and off it sometimes. If I got sick by any chance it was easy to find a transport and head down to a hospital in Darjeeling. The plan looked good enough and by mid September we took the Darjeeling Mail. My father did not want me to go on my own and so along came he and Baidyajit 

(a good friend).

early morning walks in Darjeeling

Darjeeling is one of my all time favourite places on earth but that visit felt real special. We decided to spend a few days in Darjeeling first before heading for Tumling. Walking those familiar and dear roads of Darjeeling infused fresh enthusiasm in me and soon we were ready for Tumling.

approaching Tumling from Meghma during one of my many afternoon training walks

While in Tumling I took it very seriously and began to push myself each day with longer walks around Tonglu and Joubari. My whole body ached, muscles were tired easily. I could not afford to allow my body more rest days to recuperate. Soon, after a couple of days of determined hikes and a healthy dose of wholesome food prepared by Nila Didi’s kitchen, I was beginning to feel confident. I was rediscovering myself all over again and my body was regaining its rhythm, balance and strength. Thus at Tumling in a late September afternoon of 2010 I realized I belong to the mountains. They are part of my existence, an extension of my soul.

Kitchen, Sikhar Lodge, Tumling

The mountains of Singalila had helped me get back on feet. I knew I was ready for leading groups. First the Kuari Pass trek and then an exploratory mountaineering venture to an unknown valley in Spiti.

End of Part II                                                                                                   6^th May, 2012

Prologue to Africa: Part I

Escape to Gangotri: the long six days

In June 2010 I was supposed to be dead. I was deep inside the upper reaches of the Gangotri glacier when that incident took place. It so happens that I had two cysts in my right lung. They grew inside me without my knowledge of course, over the years, to the size and shape of tennis balls. They are called hydatid cysts, kind of a tapeworm (echynococcus granulosus) infection one can get either from dogs or from sheep. I may have got them from eating ( or should I say ‘tasting’ because I only had a tiny bit out of sheer curiosity) raw sheep liver in the base camp of Mount Kamet back in 2005. It amazes me to this day that with these growing cysts in my lung I had participated in many high altitude mountaineering expeditions over 6000m to major summits and even raced on Mt Elbrus (20 trips between 2005 June and 2010 June to be precise)! Should this incident have happened in one of those extreme conditions I sure stood less chance of survival!

Gangotri glacier near its head. the shoulder of Janhukot visible on the left. Chaukhamba  massif forming the head of the valley

However in June 2010, something finally happened as I was leading a small group (Heidi Genesis and Bryan Hylenski) on an expedition that aimed to make the first ascent of Janhukot (6805m). We were only two people in the advanced base camp that night. Thendup Sherpa, my trusted climbing partner and lead climbing Sherpa of all Adventure Mania expeditions and I had chosen the spot for ABC near the junction of Swachand and Gangotri glaciers.  After setting up ABC, we had gone further up that afternoon to have a look at Maiandi Bamak and the mountain we were about to tackle, Janhukot. All seemed fine until late at night, while I was deep asleep, one of the cysts ruptured.

What followed was not nice! First I was coughing nonstop and soon was breathless. Chest pain was accompanied with high fever and dirrahoea making me extremely weak. My first thought was I had HAPE and I must get down to lower altitude. I started taking medications that I had with me to give some symptomatic relief, but that did not seem to work. But the worst part was that I could not drink or eat at all. Nothing would go down.

The junction of Kirti and Gangotri glaciers, before the snow storm

It took me 24 hours to gather courage and energy to start my long journey back to Gangotri. While Thendup, Lakpa and Indra stayed with Bryan and Heidi; Kiran accompanied me down. As soon as I had started walking I realized it is much worse than I had presumed. I could walk only 10-12 steps at a time and had to sit down for 10-15 minutes before I could stand up and walk the next 10 steps. The mountains around me, which looked divine and grand 24 hours ago; had turned into a cruel and unforgiving fortress. It felt as if a death sentence has been announced and the convict was trying to escape. 

It took me and Kiran nearly 12 hours just to reach Sundarban, our BC site, and I was completely dehydrated and drained. This would have taken me 4 hours max in normal physical state. Even though I had lost some altitude, may be around 500m-600m, I was not feeling any better. I thought maybe this is not enough; we should try and get to Bhujbas tomorrow, at least. But over the next 12 hours my condition worsened and by early morning next day I realized I do not have the strength left to walk the seemingly endless moraines of Gangotri glacier. I asked Kiran to go up to ABC once again and get Lakpa down. It seemed at that moment that two helping hands are better than one. Kiran sprung into action, he made a quick dash to ABC and by mid day was down in BC with Lakpa. We had ropes but I had ruled out the option of carrying me down. It seemed reckless at that time. I decided to walk with my two hands across their shoulders. My brave, strong friends, they did not let me down. But the weather was not on our side. It decided to play naughty and while we were just about to traverse the Kirti Glacier junction we were hit by a snow storm forcing us to get back to Sundarban. The snow storm lasted for next 48 hours, covering the moraines with soft new snow and making it even more challenging terrain for I was sinking by the hour.

before the incident in base camp

48 hours after the incident in base camp

In those 48 hours of snow storm it was very important that we did not lose hope although I could sense that my brave comrades Kiran and Lakpa were beginning to doubt if I will be able make it alive! The snow had to stop and so I gathered all the energy I could master at that state and started a very determined push to Tapovan. We knew if we could reach Tapovan we will find people who could help. The fresh coat of snow were triggering frequent avalanches from Shivling and the moraine wall one climbs to reach Kharapattar near Tapovan was hurling rocks down ceaselessly. So we had to detour. Had to move towards the medial moraine of Gangotri glacier and find a safer route to Tapovan. 

Finally after 12 hours of toil we reached the cave shelter of Tara Mataji of Tapovan. At that very moment I knew I was going to live. It was the 5^th day since one of cysts had ruptured. My symptoms were still not improving and I was beginning to think that my case may not be a simple case of HAPE after all.

Mataji of Tapovan. Photo: Heidi Genesis

On the 6^th day of the ordeal when we started our walk we were still hoping to find some ponies at Bhujbas and not having to walk the last 14 kilometres to Gangotri. But after reaching Bhujbas we learnt that while we were stranded in Sundarban during the snow storm a torrential rain washed the lower valley. The mule track that connects Bhujbas with Gangotri was cut off in a few places due to mudslides. So walking we did. But it felt much easier than finding our way through powder coated unstable moraine. By afternoon, on the 6^th day of our ordeal, we reached Gangotri. After resting a night at Gangotri and buying food supply for both Mataji and our expedition team Kiran and Lakpa went back up all the way to the ABC to reunite with the team. For me the journey was downhill. Within 24 hours I made nonstop travel to Delhi, merely changing vehicles and flew to Kolkata; still hoping that I will be able to come back in Gangotri in time to meet the returning expedition team. Somehow I felt consulting doctors in Kolkata was a better idea than getting admitted in the Uttarkashi Government hospital.

At a Guest House in Gangotri after the escape. Left to right: lakpa, Anindya, Kiran

A few days after the surgery at the CMRI hospital Photo: Pabitra  Chatterjee

What followed was a quick phase of diagnosis and then a lung surgery at the Calcutta Medical Research Institute under Senior Surgeon Dr. Saibal Gupta and Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya. I was bed ridden for 3 months. That was a setback for Adventure Mania and its mountaineering service works. We are yet to recover from that. For a small outfit such as Adventure Mania, if its owner-guide is down, and if he is the only one able to attract new work for himself and his crew; the picture does not look particularly sunny!

But friends across the globe reached out and stood by me and my family and I am going to remember that for the rest of my life.

For me a new chapter was about to begin. I had many questions in my mind. Will I be able to climb again? Will my lungs permit me to go high altitude once more? Will I be able to lead and guide expeditions? If not, I would have to face a new challenge, find a new way to earn bread for my family!