Mountains, Mountains & more Mountains...

Kuber Glacier Exploration and first Indian ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001

2011-04-20T11:41:00.000+05:30

This expedition was probably the genesis of Adventure Mania. I found my report in Himalayan Journal's 2002 Expedition and Notes section. I am putting a copy of that report below:

EXPLORATION IN KUBER GLACIER

ANINDYA MUKHERJEE

OUR AIM WAS TO EXPLORE the less known plateau of Kuber glacier and evaluate possibilities of new high altitude trek routes in the area.

Kuber glacier is located to the east of Badrinath in the district of Joshimath (Uttaranchal). The coordinates of Kuber are 300 45′ N, and 790 31′ E. It is 3 km in length and 700 m wide. The height of its snout is 4008 m. The most dominant peak of Kuber is Nar Parvat (5855 m). The glacier is located at 790 33′ 30″ E and 330 44′ 50″ N, to the west of Nar Parvat. Kuber glacier stretches from east to west.

There is another interesting peak on the southwest ridge originating from Nar Parvat. This is the ‘Sky Peak’, climbed and christened by the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary in 1978.

History of Kuber

In 1978, after the ‘Jet Boat’ part of the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition was over, the team trekked their way on to Hemkund and Valley of Flowers, before attempting Narayan Parvat. They could not climb Narayan and instead attempted its companion Nar Parvat. Here another misfortune awaited them. Sir Hillary fell seriously ill with pulmonary oedema at Camp 1 (5360 m) Two helicopters of Indian Air Force flew on an evacuation mission the same day. But their attempts to land were foiled by bad weather. Luckily the weather relented and Ed was flown to Mana and then further to Bareilly. Three members, Peter Hillary, Murray Jones and Graeme Dingle finally climbed an unnamed peak (5850 m), which they symbolically named as ‘Sky’. They sprinkled Ganga water on the top of the peak.

We were the second team in Kuber and the first Indian team in the area. We were certainly thrilled to follow such famous footsteps.

The Journey

I started from Kolkata on 27 May, 2001, reaching Joshimath on 29 May. Balbir Burphel of Joshimath joined me there and we moved to Malari by jeep. We trekked to Gamsali village on the same day. On 31st Balbir and me entered the Amrit Ganga valley.

The Trek

On 31 May 2001 Balbir and myself moved west from Gamsali. After worshipping at the temple of Dani, we crossed the Amrit Ganga river and thereafter followed it’s true right bank. We intended to cross the famous Bhuindhar Kanta but did not follow the traditional track that follows through Thaur Udiyar and Eri Udiyar. We trekked beyond the vicinity of Thaur Udiyar and camped on the right lateral moraine SSE of the legendary Kakbhushandi Peak (5830 m). Next morning we had a grand view of Nilgiri Parvat (6474 m) to our west.

On 1 June, we moved south and entered the sanctum of Rataban (6166 m). Rataban north face was standing with all its grandeur. In this small valley, two glaciers join hands (one from Bhuindhar Khal and one from Rataban) and move north to join the main flow of Bankund glacier. That day we camped below the khal. It was a memorable night with high velocity wind funneling down from the pass. On 2 June, we moved west. Ours was going to be the earliest

crossing of the Khal of the year as most of the crossing generally takes place in July to October. We negotiated a steep ice slope and after a long traverse reached the top of the pass. Its altitude is 5090 m. We had a good view of Ghori Parvat (6708 m) and Rataban from the pass to the Bhuinder Valley side. The descent to Tipra glacier side was through treacherous snow slops involving long traverses and steep descent. Finally, we camped at Dhara Kharak. This name is given by ‘Shepherds’ as numerous waterfalls surround the camping ground. The enormous icefall coming from the south face of Rataban was the backdrop of our campsite. 3 June, was a cloudy day. We started early and traversed the Tipra glacier to SW and soon climbed up its right lateral moraine and entered the Valley of Flowers. We passed Chakulthela, Tipra Kharak and walked on the bed of Bhuindhar Ganga. Then after crossing Bamni Dhaur we reached Ghangharia and started down the valley to reach the bus head of Govind Ghat by late afternoon. By 06.00 p.m. we reached Joshimath. Thus the first part of our trek was over.

Quest for Kuber

On 4 June, Balbir and me reached Badrinath and Joined the Kuber glacier exploration team. It was a day of reunion and rest. We arranged for 3 LAPs took care of the last minute shopping, and went for a recce. We talked to bakriwalas and villagers of Mana. According to the map, the Kuber glacier is located directly east of Badrinath. We agreed on a direct approach from Badri.

Trek to Base Camp

On 6 June, we moved direct east from Badri and moved up the grassy spur. The going was tough due to a steep gradient. There was no track or trail. In most of the places we literally had to climb using the grass bunches as hand and foot holds. After 4 hours of strenuous but rewarding scrambling we reached our Transit Camp. Our TC was a beautiful, green, level patch of ground among vertical surroundings. It rained during the night but the next day dawned fine. We woke up under the ever watchful eyes of Nilkanth (6596 m). Urvashi and Narayan peaks looked like it’s two arms. After breakfast, we climbed eastwards. Very soon, we faced steep icy remains of winter snow on the upper part of the slope. We cut steps and fixed rope on the ice slope for the safe passage of the team. Then we moved a little to the north and climbed up a dangerously loose boulder zone. Then again took to the east. Dense fog was interrupting our progress intermittently. After 5 hours of toil we saw the icefall of Kuber glacier. A suitable site was found for making our base camp. The icefall was to our north. To our east was a 600 ice slope with four intermittent rock bands. To reach the upper plateau of Kuber we have to negotiate this very wall. To our SE was a rocky peak of 4319 m.

Beyond Base Camp

On 8 June, myself, Abbas and Balbir put our climbing boots on and started climbing the wall. Ice axes became a burden on the rock step. Very soon we were rock climbing with crampons on. We were relieved to see last of the rock bands. Then after steep climbing on hard ice, we reached a decent slope that led to the plateau. Clouds were closing in on us and we cut a shelf on the slope and pitched a tent. A mild drizzle of powder snow continued for the rest of the day.

On 9 June, the entire Kuber plateau was blanketed by heavy mist. It was impossible to find our route on the plateau. Still we pressed on, with the aid of a compass towards east. We climbed three humps but the curtain of mist showed no sign of improvement. Over the top of the third hump we waited for a long and frustrating hour but then gave up hope and went back to the camp. Around 3.30 p.m. blue sky appeared in the east. Balbir and myself went for a recce. This time we moved a little to the SE. After climbing two humps a fine, shapely, snow peak appeared on the far end of Kuber plateau. At the very first sight we recognized the peak. It was the Sky Peak, 5853 m. To its NE was Nar Parvat (5855 m). From Nar another ridge emanated towards west. On this ridge was a distinct col to climb Nar Parvat one would have to cross this col from Kuber plateau and attempt from its northern side. This might have required two more camps from our present point. So we turned our focus on Sky Peak. Between Sky and Nar Parvat lies a col that theoretically leads to the Khunt khal area. But the col was wearing a jacket of crevasses and a dangerous icefall guarded its descent. So we cancelled any probability of that route. However happy with our recce, Balbir and I returned to camp.

Ascent of Sky Peak

On June 10, Abbas, Balbir and myself started climbing the humps and within an hour reached the roof of Kuber plateau. We roped up and gained the NE ridge of Sky Peak. As soon as we reached the ridge a great view was waiting for us. We could now see Nanda Devi, Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Bethartoli Himal, Trisul and Ghori Parbat stretching from east to SE. We then turned south and started climbing the ridge. We climbed a 600 wall and gained the north shoulder of Sky. The summit ridge was sharp and beautiful. Carefully we negotiated the last steps and reached the summit of Sky at 08:00 a.m. We were happy and proud to be the first Indians on top of Sky. We did ‘puja’ on the summit and took photographs. Our eastern side was dominated by the Nanda Devi group and the same peaks were seen from the lower ridge. To our south west was the Vishnugarh dhar of the Khir ganga valley. We retraced our steps back to camp. We packed our tent and moved back to BC. The descent to BC was really treacherous. We climbed down cautiously and reached BC safely around noon.

The next day, we cleared BC and went down towards Badrinath. It was an endless descent. We made it to Badrinath by 2 p.m.

Team: Anindya Mukherjee (leader), S. K. Abbasuddin, Akash Parial, Diganta Roy Chowdhury, Subrata Bhattacharya and Balbir Burphel (HAS).

Summary: Exploration in Kuber glacier and ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001.

2011 Expeditions and Trips

2011-01-09T12:26:00.000+05:30

Goecha La Trek & climbing Jopuno Peak
Where: West Sikkim, India
When: Monday, March 28, 2011 to
Saturday, April 16, 2011

Roop Kund Trek
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Monday, May 23, 2011 to
Sunday, June 12, 2011

Satopanth (7075m) Expedition
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Friday, July 1, 2011 to
Saturday, July 30, 2011

Guided ascents in the Swiss Alps
Where: Bernese Alps, Switzerland
When: Saturday, August 27, 2011 to
Saturday, September 10, 2011

Kilimanjaro- a high altitude trek
Where: Tanzania
When: Saturday, December 3, 2011 to
Saturday, December 10, 2011

Indian Himalaya 2010!

2010-01-11T12:33:00.002+05:30

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk. We are looking forward to organize treks and mountaineering expeditions to the following peaks and areas this year. Please feel free to write back if you have a specific query regarding any of our trips mentioned below. We are also providing base camp supports to independent climbing parties all over the Indian Himalaya.

for a brief introduction to the mountains in Garhawal, Kumaon and Sikkim please click the link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com/2010/01/introduction-to-garhwal-kumaun-and.html

Scheduled Mountaineering Expeditions

Mt. Lama Ongden (5818m)- 20 April- 8 May, 2010- Sikkim- remote areas of Ringi Chu valley of North Sikkim. Places open.
Mt Shivling (6593m)- 5 June-4 July, 2010- Garhwal- places open: for photo tour from our Expedition to Shivling in 2008 please click on the link: http://arnarogberglind.smugmug.com/2009/shivlingmyndashow/10801390_wbD4g#754497766_b9faH ( courtesy: Arnar Emilsson and Berglind Adalsteinsdottir)

Exploration climbing: 21 August, 2010- 18 September, 2010* (Himachal Pradesh)-places open

Note: those interested in doing climbs in less known and unexplored glaciers and valleys in Indian Himalaya may contact Raja for more info on this planned expedition.

Exploration Climbing Spiti-Oct 25, 2010 to November 24, 2010

( positions filled)*

Scheduled Treks:

SINGALILA RIDGE TREK:

You can join our scheduled Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010. This will be lead by Raja and Yoga lessons will be given by Hilde Wasserfall. Dates: March 27, 2010 to April 11, 2010

For more info on this trek please email:

SPITI-LADAKH TRAVERSE

MANALI-KAZA- PARANGLA- TSO MORIRI- TELAKONLA-MANALI TREK:

Period: 17July- 6 August 2010

KUARI PASS TREK: THE NANDA DEVI TRAIL

October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

A few places left to book and join this great trek with magnificent views of the Nandadevi and its associate mountains.Trek Grade: Easy

For a picture tour of Kuari trails click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for details Email Raja:

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get involved in one of these camps that we do.

regards,

Anindya Mukherjee "Raja"

Kuari Pass Trek 2010

2010-01-01T11:49:00.003+05:30

Kuari Pass Trek 2010: October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

places open:

for a picture tour of the Kuari trail click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for more more info email Raja or Contact Adventure Mania

Indian Himalaya 2010

2009-11-18T13:39:00.001+05:30

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk.

2009 is almost over and we are already planning for 2010. We need climbers for the following peaks for 2010:

Mt Shivling (6593m)- August, 2010
Mt Satopanth (7050m)- August-September, 2010
Mt kalanag (6387m)- May-June 2010

You can also join our Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

It is true that apart from Kanchenjunga, we do not have any 8000m peaks! What we have is countless less known glaciers and mountain peaks ranging from 5000m to 7000m (and many of them are unclimbed..still!!!); valleys very few tourists have hiked; rivers seldom rafted down; culture so deep rooted and vibrantly colourful people. And these all are but the finest components that can make your trip to Indian Himalaya a truly memorable one!

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

If you are interested to join any of our scheduled treks or climbing adventures,please visit our website: www.adventuremania.com. Or just write and email to Raja.

We are also regular treks to remote Sikkim, Garwal and Kumaun, Himachal Pradesh regions.We also offer full service guided ascents on non technical summits.

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get invloved in one of these camps that we do.

Adventures ahead: Kellas Peak on the horizon

2009-10-07T11:50:00.004+05:30

3 weeks in Spiti passed swiftly. Snow and wind as constant company, we managed to trek from Kibber to the Lingti valley. The original plan to cross Parang la was abondoned due to too much new powder snow. So had to forget Tso Mo Riri this time; and focussed on the land and culture of Spiti instead.

After the trip, back in Manali, surprises and shock were waiting for me. My blogs were thoroughly spammed. This prompted me to clean my space and change all the settings hoping to ever watrchful evil eyes of the spammer. Reminds me of the black gate and the eye of Sauron (Lord Of the Rings)!

Came back home only discover my laptop sick, and desktop critical. To add to the misery, the internet device dead! So I have to catch up with my work and emails in internet cafes nowadays for a change! Not fair!

The only nice thing was probably being home in Durga Puja festivals after 7 years. It was juyst nice to be around with my son and catching up with friends.

But now the holiday is over and I am all set for expedition to peak Kellas in remotest corner of North Sikkim. Tell you what, all the permits are now done!!! Phew! Its going to be interesting as little is known about the mountain and its approaches. So I am open to challenges from all possible (and impossible) corners and of course I am not undermining the Indian and Sikkim bureaucracy. After all a piece of paper can easily blow away the peace of mind! Yes!

Kaza

2009-09-07T16:15:00.001+05:30

After getting stranded again on Rohtang Pass road, finally reached Kaza last evening. A gruelling 11 hours on the road and a well earned rest at the Himachal Tourism Hotel Spiti. It was good to see the young cook from Kullu is still there and he almost made us feel at home with a fantastic meal.

We seem to be lucky weather wise this time, though the September wind is already biting cold. Its going to be some cold nights up ahead at Parang La I am sure. Arranging transport to Kibber and permits is on top of my agenda today. Shopping for 12 days for 13 people is also happening right now. Off to Kibber tomorrow. The highest village (4250m) connected with a motorable road and electricity.

Some of us have gone to visit the nearby Dankhar Gompa, while the not so lucky ones are happily roaming in the streets of Kaza.

Since we were lucky enough not to get stranded in Kunzumla due to untimely snow fall ( read in the newspaper at Losar Police post that this snowfall broke 54 years record), I am hoping that we will make it through the next 2 weeks with safety an success. Crossing of Parangla (5580m) is the most demanding part of this 2 week trip, but what interests me more is the exit route chosen. Instead of following the obvious path to Leh after reaching the Tso Moriri , I am inclined to follow the valley of Phirtse Fu and cross Telkon La (5050m) and reach Pang, the road head.

Looking forward to do some exploring up the KIbber valey and towards kanamo (5900m) and Shilla( 6130m) Peak. It can be a good acclimatisation day for the team as well. The small peak on the left of Parangla is also in my mind. Lets see how everything goes. Safety comes first!

Next contact with internet wil be around 24 Sep. Till then good bye and peace!

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

a train, a bus and manali

2009-09-05T14:32:00.001+05:30

Kolkata to Delhi.The train journey was a nice surprise. Actually. Rajdhani Experess, haven't been on it for long time. And now I must admit that the experience is better. It has improved, the whole experience. Remarkable food especially, when this is included in your train ticket price; matters. But what matters most is panctuality of the train. And this time it was a ten on ten.

Whenever I am taking a train ride, all these comparisons come into my mind. The European trains ( especially the Swiss, French and German) are great. They are meticulously perfect on time, they are clean and look modern. The one long distance Russian train I was on was a train from Moscow to MIn Vody. It was great and different experiemce altogether. It lacked the look may be, but there was no shortage of quality of service on board. I was particularly impressed by the one lady conductor who was literraly taking care of everything in one coach. From checking our tickets to cleaning the floor. The look may be was mechanical and the built was a typical Soviet type; but I must admit there was certain warmth about it. This warmth is completely missing in European trains. The Eurpoean trains may be faster, and has more on time performances; it still lacks the human touch. The Swiss Jungfrau railway is admirable for the engineering achievements and service etc, but what it lacks is human touch. Technology and quality of service come first. Human touch later. Money first, convenience later.

Indian trains on the other hand are human first and then everything else come into the picture. The on time performances are improving. Surely we do not hear about abnormal delays any more and the cleanliness and hygiene has improved on board ( still no where near comparable to Western Standards though). Its diffrent, indeed!

Delhi as always was hectic. Running around and talking business is all I did in day. Not just meeting my clients for the upcoming trek; I had to take advantage of being in Delhi and meeting the IMF and updating the October Expedition scenario.

I have always preferred the overnight bus ride from Delhi to Manali, over flying to Kullu and the taking a taxi to manali. Not only it saves cash, but also it saves time. Instead of sleeping one night in Delhi, we are now in Manali. All the Adventure Mania boys are here too. Its a nice temperature and we are not missing the Delhi or Kolkata climate a bit.

Tomorrow we are off to kaza. A long day ( 11 hours approx) over Rohtang Pass and Kunzum pass( 4550m) and into spiti. Crossing the Great Himalayan range and into lahoul and the to the middle country of Spiti. After 2 nights in kaza we wil set out for Kibber (the highest village, connected by road 4200m) and then onwards and upwards to Parangla and Tso moriri). Adventures ahead.

This is how things are happening and I am not complaining.

Hoping to get some interest from climbers for satopanth (7075m) and Shivling (6593m) for 2010. Hope and thats the best policy sometimes. There is internet connection in Kaza. If it works , will probably do one more post before the trek.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Elbrus Album

2009-09-01T13:29:00.001+05:30

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/ElbrusRace?feat=directlink

Here is the link to the images from Elbrus Race 2008. I have added some new pics to this album from the Speed Climb organizers website. Here you can see the almost photo-finish between me and Martin on top of Elbrus.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

of mangroves, tigers & a medical boat

2009-08-30T20:39:00.002+05:30

A boat. looks ordinary from outside. Just like the boats that ferry tourists on river cruise in the Sundarban, bringing thousands each year to it's famous Tiger Reserve. Not like the huge ones used by the West Bengal Tourism. But the smaller ones which are more efficient.

I am planning to buy one.

and then, I am going to convert the interior of this boat into a medical unit. Not a very sophisticated one. It will have only the basic gears and facilities of a primary health center.

why?

while working at Cyclone hit (Aila) Bali island and its neighborhood, I was shocked by the sheer access problem to the remote islands and villages. Villagers have no access to primary health care in some villages. In most of the cases, they have to travel a long way to nearest towns; either to a private doctor or to a Government run clinic ( which is either un-manned or ill equipped in most cases).

What if I can start a project that will run this boat; which is in effect a 'mobile medical unit'...

working 365 days...run and manned by locals...all we need is some one trained in nursing and basic first aid.

this is still an idea...

I know this thought needs refining, some fine tuning and lot of planning and preparations..It will not be easy. It will take lot of commitment in the beginning. But it is not impossible.

But I also know...that when this idea has come in my mind..I will do it.

I can not do it all on my own; because most part of the year I am in the mountains. If you think it's a stupid plan that's bound to fail, and I should forget about it; please let me know.

But if you feel otherwise, and feel like joining me or putting a word of advise in ear; you are most welcome.
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Ladakh Beckons

2009-08-27T18:55:00.002+05:30

There is this restlessness back on my feet, back on my mind and soul. It happens. Always. Without fail. It has been happening to me since I was a kid. A kid with no concentration on syllabus and classrooms. A kid with distant, dreamy eyes lost in his own journeys in his own head. That restlessness has not left me. Not yet. I remember one night when a camping trip was canceled and I was depressed. I had to go pitch my tent in our backyard. Man, it gave some outlet. I just had to go outdoor! Literally! And so I kept on sleeping in a hammock ( and when it rained, I moved inside a 1960s Japanese ridge tent that belonged to my uncle).

Now that I manage to make a living out of the great Indian Outdoors; that restlessness has only increased. I want to see more, I want to learn more from whatever is out there.

Off to Spiti and Ladakh next week. This time I will be leading a German group over Parangla and finally to the Tso Mo Riri. From Delhi we will be driving to Manali and then to Kaza. Two long days on the road. After a days rest and acclimatization at kaza, we will be heading for the road head.

I am not yet fully organized regarding this trek. The Expedition to Peak Kellas in North Sikkim ( which is coming up right after I finish this trek) have been keeping me busy ( with all its paper works and babudome). Had to lose a fantastic opportuntiy to spend the weekend at Forest Rest House in Dooars as well. But I really have to put things together in the following days. Well, sacrifices made for greater cause and hope all will fall in to their respective places...in due course! Amen!!!
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

me, monsoon & me: some photos

2009-08-27T14:14:00.001+05:30

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/MonSoon?authkey=Gv1sRgCJCpoqLHw8bPtAE&feat=directlink

click on the link above to go to the album
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

volunteers needed in Swiss Alps- check out this great video

2009-08-24T21:26:00.001+05:30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKIqGYRuvbk
I loved this. You will too!
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Swiss Alps photos

2009-08-08T11:40:00.001+05:30

Hi Friends,

I have posted some of my pictures from the Swiss Alps in this album.
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/anindya.adventuremania/MyPilgrimageToTheBerneseAlps?feat=directlink

cheers!
Raja

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

paperwork blues

2009-08-05T17:13:00.001+05:30

I will tell you how it is going so far! I am talking about this expedition we are planning in North Sikkim. The mountain is called Kellas and it is 6680m. It is named after Dr. A. M. Kellas, one of the highest authorities of high altitude human physiology. Its a British- American Expedition led by Dr. Jeremy Windsor and I am proud to be a part of it. If we make it, it will be a first ascent and a tribute to Dr. Kellas.

I consider myself lucky to be able to work in the Indian Himalaya. No where else one would find as many unclimbed peaks, unexplored glaciers. Surely one life time is not enough! I live my passion and enjoy my job. Just to be able to be in the mountains is rewarding enough. But sadly as everything else in life also is, there is a constant, never ending pain. A kind of reality that we learn to live with; make treaty, or sometimes even a compromise!

It has not changed since the British left. It is the mountain of paper works! Probably one of the most significant part of any Himalayan Expedition. So long the freedom of the hills and spirit of adventure! They can only come if and when you have the right papers signed, right number of files moved, spoken to the right people and of course the right currency paid ( in this case it happens to be US$ and a whole lot of it).

we just need the following departments' clearance for this expedition:

Indian Mountaineering Foundation
Ministry of Defense
Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi
Home Department, Government of Sikkim
Tourism Department, Government Of Sikkim

And I am beginning to feel glad that we have got the clearance from the first 4 departments already! Only one to go.

And you thought these mountain guides' are free from the boredom (burden) of desk job? Not in India you don't. :-)

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

My pilgrimage to the Bernese Alps- a short report

2009-07-18T23:03:00.002+05:30

The Berner Oberland Trio: Eiger- Monch-Jungfrau

As the rock step became unstable and never ending; we were still struggling to get to the South East ridge of Jungfrau. Last night when we last looked at the map, it all looked so obvious. For a team of experienced rock climbers and high altitude mountaineers, this 4000er seemed more like a tourist mountain. It took us a while to realize yet again that a mountain is a mountain; no matter how many times it has been climbed in the past; or how many guide books has been written on its routes. We were surprised at the grade of difficulties we were facing that morning. The guide books described the SE ridge of Jungfrau as PD and we were almost certain that it was going well beyond that scale. Well, the guide book was not wrong; it was us on the wrong side of the ridge. I felt tired and sleepy as I climbed and tried to be careful and safe on the rocks. The snow ridge was within striking distance, but we knew it will not bring any comfort to our ascent. We have already lost 2 vital hours on this perilous traverse and with the rising sun; snow was getting softer each minute. A scary scramble followed by a snow plod. Does not make a perfect alpine ascent; does it? But sometimes thats all you get. Never under estimate a mountain; I told myself. I learn to be humble every step, onwards and upwards.

The Jetlagged climber

I have never felt so much jet lagged ever before as this time. I dont know why it happened; but the flight to Munich from Delhi via Dubai ( and 19 hours in transit- 9 in Dubai, 10 in Delhi) seemed to have taken its toll. Inspite of the special treatment from the Airlines at the Delhi airport; my body was reacting strange this time. It felt like that I needed to acclimatize to the alpine air.

I started from Kolkata on the morning of July 9; reached Delhi at around 2.30 in the afternoon. I had to wait in the International terminal for 10 hours for my flight to Dubai and then another 9 hours in the transit area in Dubai. When I finally made Munich it was July 10, 13.30 hrs. Martin came to meet me at the airport and we took the S-Bahn to the Munich HBF ( main station) , had a coffee and parted. Martin was heading to Berlin to meet his parents and me to Meiringen. My train to Meiringen via zurich was not untill 4.30 pm and I was glad to see Alan and Sandra waiting for me there. It took 5 hours from Munich and thanks to the smooth driving by Sandra I reached the MCI campsite at Innertkirchen close to midnight.

Didnt get any sleep for the past 48 hours and it was the same that night.

6 days...4 summits...not bad eh

July 11: Climbed Schwarzhorn after a long walk from Grosse Schiedig. There was a via ferrata on one of its ridge. This was my first ever via ferrata and I must say I enjoyed it thoroughly. The wearther was not pleasant and I was feeling tired and sleepy all the time. I never got time to get rid of the jet lag. Although I thought walking and climbing could be a great way to smash the jet lag down.

I was wrong. I got my first ever alpine summit today though.

July 12: The weather forecast for the rest of the wek was not encouraging at all. The Mittelegi hut on Eiger was closed for uncertain time. This was notgood news for the few dreamers (like me) who were really keen to climb the famous and classic ridge of the Eiger this time. But when you are in the Bernese Alps; you are not short of famous( almost iconic) mountains to climb. So the Team Eiger decided to move up to the Monchjoch hut. George, sandra, PJ, Michael, and Anthony climbed Monch that afternoon; and I decided to sleep, a much deserved one perhaps. They climbed Monch that afternoon while I slept.

July 13: Started from the Monchjoch hut at 4 am, traversed the glacier and started gaining the rocky ridge that will finally lead us to the SE ridge of Jungfrau via Rottasattel. Lost 2 vital hours on the loose and treacherous rock step only to realize that we were on the wrong face of the ridge. We manage to climb it without any trouble (other than losing precious time) and continued to Rottasattel. The bergschrund ( a massive crevasse guarding the bottom of Rottasattel) did not pose too much problem and we were soon on the saddel. TJust as soon things started to look a bit easier for us, the weather decided to turn hostile and we had to do the snow and ice climbs to the summit in near zero visibility. The summit shot of Jungfrau (the one with the prayer flags) will show the kind of visibilty we had then. The paryer flags I bought in Manali after coming down from Manirang is now on top of Jungfrau. After a total of 11 hours and patient pitch by pitch climb down of the face, we were back in the safety zone.

George and the rest of team decided to take the evening train down to Grindelwald and I decided to stay another night at the Monchjoch hut. The plan was to climb Monch next morning and the I was keen to do it solo. So after an hour of slow snow plod I was back at the hut. Heidi, the lady in charge of the reservations of the hut was surprised to see me back and got even serious when she she heard my plan to solo Monch next morning. To her I was not only a single Indian climber; but the weather forecast for the next day was not particularly encouraging. But when I said to her that I am a professional mountaineer and I guide in the Indian Himalaya; she was a bit assured I guess.

It felt like home in the hut that night, and Heidi remembered my lactose intolerance problem and got a nice specially cooked meal for dinner. Finally could sleep well that night.

July 14: Started from the Hut at 6.45 am and reached the top of Monch at 8.25 am. Very windy morning and climbing the knife edge ridge near the summit got interesting with each step. I must say the concentration and commitment brought me to another spiritual level altogether. I was very glad whehn I was at the top. Took a lot of photos and caught a glimpse of Eiger and its South ridge. Next time Eiger...I will come back. Have to. Climbed down to the hut without any problem, met Heidi to reassure her of my safe return. She was glad to see me back. After a cup of coffee I headed down to Grindelwald valley. What a day.

July 15: Back at the campsite at Innertkirchen, it felt like coming home. Meeting Alan and Margaret felt like family. I felt blessed and lucky to have such friends and to be able to live such a life. walked down the Aare river gorge to Meiringen and visited the Sherlock Holmes museum. Coffee, good food and some time with friends. Thats what you call life.

July 16: After a rest day I was keen to climb again; at least one more summit. Alan suggested the walk up to the tierberg glacier. That will give me access to peaks like Susten horn and others. I was keen to do something solo. But got a curious opportunity to guide some one in Alps. Could not resist the chance and ego satisfaction invloved I guess. So approached Hans ( a nice guy from Norway- with no glacial or altitude experience) if he would join me to climb. He agreed readily and we were soon at the Tierberg hut. Alan was there again for us driving us close the road head.

It took us 1.30 hours to climb to the hut, took a short break to eat my apple struddle ( bought from the local bakery of Innertkirchen) and give instructions to Hans regarding glacial walk techniques etc. After another 2 hours we were on the summit of Mittl Tierberg. I traversed to loose rocky riodge towards the Hinter Tierberg only to be warned by the unstable character of the rocks. So we had to be happy with just one summit this morning.

And there ends the summit fever....

The meteo or the weather forecast for the alps continues to be bad to worse...and I have now travelled down to zurich (actually I am camped comfortably and Anne and Sepp,s house at Stafa; one hour from zurich, having redwine and good food. Life is good at the moment while its raining hard outside. saw in the tele that it has been snowing down to 1000msl and literally all climbing to 3500-4000m summits is at halt. My days at the alps are coming to an end. Still hoping to make a 5th summit if the weather breaks and gives an window of opportunity. But should not be greedy. After all mountains have not taught me that. It is humility and patience I have learnt. But still.....

My gratitude goes to Alan Tees, President of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland ( now called Mountaineering Ireland ) for inviting me to this alpine meet. It has enriched me with new ideas and strengthened me with the experience gained on the snow of Bernese Oberland. My love and respect for Margaret, who was always there for me, like my mother and pampering me.

Thanks and regards to my friend Martin, Hilde, Sepp and Anne for food and shelter....after all thats all I have ..thats all I treasure...friendship...

My pilgrimage to the Bernese Alps- a short report

2009-07-18T22:56:00.001+05:30

The Berner Oberland Trio: Eiger- Monch-Jungfrau

The Jetlagged climber

Didnt get any sleep for the past 48 hours and it was the same that night.

6 days...4 summits...not bad eh

I was wrong. I got my first ever alpine summit today though.

It felt like home in the hut that night, and Heidi remembered my lactose intolerance problem and got a nice specially cooked meal for dinner. Finally could sleep well that night.

And there ends the summit fever....

Thanks and regards to my friend Martin, Hilde, Sepp and Anne for food and shelter....after all thats all I have ..thats all I treasure...friendship...

Pilgrimage to the Swiss Alps

2009-07-07T22:46:00.001+05:30

In 48 hours I will be on my way to take part in the Summer Alpine Meet of Mountaineering Ireland (previuosly known as Mountaineering Council of Ireland) http://www.mountaineering.ie/ It is the National governing body for the sport of mountaineering in Ireland.

I have this rare privilage because of Alan Tees, President, Mountaineering Ireland. I owe this opportunity entirely to him. He is a prominent personality in the world of mountaineering and an active & prolific rock and ice climber. I am putting a couple of links to articles published in Sunday Journal on him:

http://www.sundayjournal.ie/sunday-interview/MOUNTAIN-MAN.4352328.jp

http://www.sundayjournal.ie/features/Peak-to-Peak.4205167.jp

The location of this Alpine Meet will give me an opportunity to attempt famous and formidable peaks such as the Eiger, Monch, Finsteraarhorn and Jungfrau. To climb the ridges, cols, aretes of any of these peaks is any alpinist's dream and I am fortunate enough to come one step closer to that dream!

Following is a link to Wikipedia on Bernese Alps:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernese_Alps

also attaching a map and some photos. These are taken from the net. In two weeks from now I will have my own photographs posted on this site! Now thats exciting!

questions asked but who is listening? swiss alps is on the horizon!

2009-07-04T16:47:00.005+05:30

Sometimes its obvious; sometimes not! The question is whether I am a complete idiot or a partial one? I sometimes get confused myself. I commit myself to projects that are going to trouble me financially. I do expenditures that only increases my stress. I regret it; but never seem to learn from it. In the end of it all, simply blame it on my spirit of adventure! Thats easy.

It is true that I have always been inclined to dreaming; rather than calculating risk benefit ratio. I have been a dreamer, I still am and do not know where and how the end shall be.

But without my dreams where would I be today? I would be stuck in that same pharmaceutical sales job of course! But look at me, I have have travelled far corners of the planet, made friends, met many people, experienced culture , vast and varied and tasted the freedom of being in nature and the great outdoors. When I look at my climbing gears I find it amazing to believe that in past 7 years I have done 20 major Himalayan expeditions. It took my uncle Sujal Mukherjee 25 years to take part in some 30 montaineering expeditions. Some more summits in other continents and many unforgettable journeys.My travels have always enriched, inspired, fulfilled myself. And at the same my travels always increased my apetite for more. Wanderlust, I guess one could say!

But this passion costs me dearly and there comes a point when I ask myself if its rational? any more? No body sponsors an Indian individual mountaineer for his dream adventures. And why should anyone do that? In India we have got far more serious causes to spent money on! But can I stop this journey now? Or should I?I guess not!

Off to Swiss Alps...the Bernese Oberland in a few days. Here is a chance for me to climb some of the finest and famous peaks of Swiss Alps. Thanks to Alan Tees (President, Mountaineering Ireland), I can be part of their Summer Alpine meet. This will be in Innertkirchen (somewhere close to Luzern and Interlaken).http://www.mountaineering.ie/events/viewdetails.asp?ID=170

Thanks also to Hilde Wasserfall and Martin Muecke in Germany. Without their help I would be stuck in Munich and not see the alps! But you know..I do get by with a little help from my friends...don't we all?

"What would you think if I sang out of tune
Would you stand up and walk out on me?
Lend me your ears and I'll sing you a song
And I'll try not to sing out of key
Oh I get by with a little help from my friends
Mm I get high with a little help from my friends
Mm going to try with a little help from my friends..."

Lennon/McCartney

Kedar to Badri trek

2009-07-03T10:45:00.001+05:30

You have heard or probably even read about it. The legend of a priest connecting the two famous Hindu shrines in Garhwal Himalaya! Too many articles, a lot of press perhaps! And here is your chance to be a part of the quest. Here is your chance to be lead by the pioneers on this route! Mighty adventure, grand mountainscape, good company, and affordable cost! If you know someo oen who could be interested, please forward this message.

Join us~

Badrinath to Kedarnath: A high route, a classic Himalayan trek

Across glaciers and five high passes with Adventure Mania

Grade: moderate to demanding

Journey dates: August 15, 2009 and September 5, 2009

Group Size: 6-8 persons

Day 1: Team unites at Haridwar

Day 2: Drive to Joshimath, stay at hotel

Day 3: Drive to Badrinath, stay at hotel

Day 4: Rest and acclimatization at Badrinath

Day 5: Trek to Dumkal Kharak, camp

Day 6: Cross Nilkanth Khal (Holds worth's Pass-4650m) , camp

Day 7: Trek to snout of Panpatia Glacier (3840m), camp

Day 8: Trek to moraine camp of Panpatia glacier (4450m), camp

Day 9: trek to Panpatia plateau (4950m), camp

Day 10: across Panpatia Col (5260m), camp at Sujal Sarovar (4750m)

Day 11: trek to Madmaheswar (3292m), camping

Day 12: trek to Ransi (2073m), village guest house

Day 13: Rest and reorganization at Ransi

Day 14: Trek to Sanera (2743m), camping

Day 15: trek to Paturi cave (3414m), camping

Day 16: trek to Thouli, camping (3901m)

Day 17: cross Duara Khal (4140m), trek to Mandani (3536m), camping

Day 18: camp below Yeonbuk col (4420m)

Day 19: cross Yeonbuk col (4663m) and Bisali col (4754m), camp

Day 20: cross Kedar Khal (4602m), reach Kedarnath (3581m), village guest house

Day 21: Trek down to Gourikund end of trek, drive to Guptakashi.

Day 22: Drive to Haridwar. Hotel. End of trip.

Cost: Rs. 35000/ per person

Includes: Private transport from Haridwar to Road Head Badrinath and return transport from Gourikund to Haridwar, all food during the trek, porters, cook, guide, sleeping tents, dining tent, kitchen tent, group, necessary permits and fees, all accommodation in hotels/village guest houses/tents as and where available

Exclude: any expense of personal nature, individual trekking and camping gears, major meals in Haridwar/Joshimath/Badrinath, tips to porters/guide, cost of evacuation due to personal illness/injury.

Many Ranges to Manirang

2009-06-30T18:32:00.001+05:30

Many a ranges crossed, some colours vanished and some new became bright and predominat. The noise and crowd of Manali and the Rhotang Pass were behind. The Chandra river welcomed with its desolate indifference and soon after Kunzum Pass (4550m) we were in Spiti. The country in the middle! Reminding me of the fantasmal "middle earth". The journey has begun. The fellowship is bestowed upon. We were now in Manirang county.

Sitting in the Tata Sumo for 14 hours, the only place I could relate to in Manali was the 'German Bakery'. It was only place where life was a bit settled and one could get a decent cup of tea and croissants! Although there is no German connection to the shop; but the food is pretty good. There was even Yak cheese for sale (Rs 1000/kilo!!!). To my surprise we found another "German Bakery' in the bazar of Kaza. Both the Manali and Kaza shops are run by Nepalese.

Interesting but not surprising; as they are the hard working and enterprising lot indeed! Our expedition cook Indra ( who happens to be Nepalese also) did not like me praising all the eatery food and started his own chef's specialties as soon as we reached the road head ( the village of Mane Yongma)!

We hired khotes ( small breed of donkeys) from Singhe Dorjee of Mane Yongma and they dropped our loads to Base Camp (Sapona, 4400m). As expected snows were much more than July 2006. It actually helped on the moraine as we ferried load to camp 1 (4900m) and Summit Camp (5500m) over the next few days.

In 2006, we had pitched 3 camps beyond base. But thanks to Thendup and the snow deposition in the lower flanks of glacier; we found a direct route to summit camp from the glacier below Manirang Pass (5330m). having 2 camps saved us some precious time indeed; but took away some acclimatisation factor from some of us. It was strenuous walking up the snow covered fine scree.

On June 19, Kiran and Thendup fixed rope to the summit of Manirang. They took the same route as 2006; south ridge to be specific. June 20, 2009, Martin, Matt along with Thendup climbed the summit of Manirang. It took them 14 hours to gain the top and come down to the camp. Rajeev had decided not to go for the summit and so was I. I knew my chest infection was not going to get any better over 6000m and turned my attention to exploration climbing.

On the same day, me and Kiran went down to camp on the un named glacier South of Manirang. We had been eyeing two unnamed peaks. June 21, Kiran and me climbed peak 5650m from Camp 1. It was a free climb. The final section became pretty exposed and climbing without a rope seemed stupid enough some times! We got great views of Manirang and over and beyond towards the Ropa valley and kinnaur peaks. It was a glorious day and we down climbed carefully, step by step to the apparent safety of the col. A probable first ascent. But we still need to cross check references.

On June 23, 2009, Martin and Kiran climbed a fine looking dome shaped snow peak from Camp 1 and walked down to the village of Mane. Thus this rendezvous with Manirang came to an end. 3 weeks, 3 summits!

Photos coming up on this page soon after this!

Across many ranges to Manirang!

2009-06-30T09:55:00.010+05:30

Photos coming up on this page soon after this!

Manirang and more!

2009-06-25T12:50:00.001+05:30

On June 19, 2009, Kiran and Thendup fixed rope all the way up to the summit of Manirang. The very next morning, Martin Muecke, Matt Duffy, Thendup climbed ( 14 hours) by the South Ridge to the summit of Manirang (6593m). Rajeev Ranjan decided not to attempt for the summit at the very last moment. Feeling poorly with a chest infection, I myself did not go beyond the summit camp as well. Or may be since I had climbed Manirang before (2006), I was not motivated enough! But to face the truth I was not strong enough that morning either.

On June 21, me and Kiran climbed a unnamed peak ( 5650m) near Camp1 (4900m). The climb turned out to be longer and more exposed than I had expected. We both climbed free and without a rope. I must say it was not a very wise thing to do! It was great fun and rewarding in the end!

On June 23, Martin and Kiran climbed Saponang on fine snow and ice conditions and in early morning hours! Martin has two rare Himalayan summits this time and Kiran has 3!!!

Will post updates and pictures on this blog soon. Will also be checking with climbing history and names of peaks and amending accordingly in my next post.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

kaza

2009-06-10T18:43:00.001+05:30

it took us 12 hours to reach Kaza yesterday. The ride was not comfortable; but the spectacular Spiti mesmerized us. There is still alot of fresh snow on Rhotang and Kunzam Pass (4550m). We had great views of the great Himalayan Range.

This morning, while Rajeev, Matt and Martin went to visit the Key Gompa, I went to road head village of Mane and organized our mules to Base Camp. It was good to see Singhe Dorjee after 3 years. Kaza and Mane has developed a lot since my last visit in 2006. Roads are better and the villages look like a symbol of peace and prosperity.

We also had our first view of Manirang yesterday. The route looked snowy. It seems that we will be having a snow bound Base camp and will need to plod to Camp 2 ( Manirang Pass). Other than that, sun is shining and weather looks good and so is the spirit of the team.

Manali

2009-06-08T15:30:00.001+05:30

After 26 hours of Poorva Express (Howrah to New Delhi) and 14 hours of bus travel (Delhi to Manali), we have finally made Manali. After weeks its great to be in some pleasant temperature and to be among mountains again! Rajeev, Matt, Martin, Thendup, Lhakpa, Kiran, Indra and me are now united. The team is complete. Shopping of food, fuel done. Transport to Kaza arranged. From tomorrow the real adventure begins. All the phone calls, emails, stress can wait. Here we come ...Manirang!

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

cyclone aila relief: those who made it possible

2009-06-07T16:32:00.001+05:30

It would not be right if I do not mention the names of those extraordinary persons who extended their helping hand in making the small yet significant cyclone relief effort possible.

Arindam Mukherjee
Utpal Mukherjee
Subrata Bhattacharjee
Diganta Roy Chowdhury
Sumitava Biswas
Ramesh Sharma

What they did was inspiring! They are our heroes!
cheers!

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Fwd: sundarban relief effort pictures

2009-06-05T05:49:00.001+05:30

on June 4, 2009, a few friends did it again. This time we could reach the Bali island of Sundarban. Distributed over 3000 liters of water, 600 Kilos of rice, 200 kilos of Dal, 8 sacks of Bleaching Powder, a few cartons of Oral rehydration salt, medicines, and baby food and more.

We drove to Godkahli ( approx 125 kms from Calcutta) and the took a boat ( 1 hour on the Durga duani river) to reach Bali Island. From Bali Island our friends are distributing food , water and medicine deeper in remote parts of Sundarban.

Since I am in a hurry to catch a train; I am positing few photos that I took yesterday. After a month when I am back from Manirang Expedition, I should be able to share some more photos from this day.

relief effort to the victims of cyclone aila in sundarban tiger reserve

2009-05-30T17:36:00.001+05:30

This morning Subroto, Raja and Abhijit started for the road heads of the Sundarban Tiger Reserve (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sundarbans_National_Park).

This time we were not going for a pleasant river cruise. We were not in holiday mood at all. We had collected medicines, food, clothes for victims of cyclone Aila. We could get in touch with our friends in Bali island. They had come down to God khali jetty in a boat to meet us.

It has been almost an week since the cyclone visited the mangrove delta tiger reserve. But in most of the remote villages there is still acute shortage of water, medicines and food.

I have attached some pix from our today's venture (May 30, 2009). Now with more knowledge of what exactly is in need for the helpless people of Sundarban, we are organizing another relief effort on June 4, 2009. Anyone interested to join hands with us can send me email or call.
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Check out Aila aftermath

2009-05-29T22:31:00.001+05:30

Cyclone Aila

Tomorrow Raja and Subroto (Babua) are leaving for Sonakhali, near the Sundarban Tiger Reserve with food and emergency medicines. This is a venture by Adventure Mania to reach out to the victims of the cyclone. Its a small effort but this can make a difference. I will post photos of this relief effort when we are back. Those of you who are not aware of Cyclone Aila can check out the following video that I found on NDTV

See: Aila aftermath

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Exploration Climbing November 2009

2009-05-27T11:57:00.001+05:30

In autumn,2008, a four-member team from the Alpine Club became the first climbers to explore the head of the little-known Obra Valley, an area of sub-6,000m peaks west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini Group in India's far Western Garhwal.

After driving to the road head at Jakhol via Mussoorie, Derek Buckle, Toto Gronlund, Martin Scott and Bill Thurston made a three-day trek to a scenic grassy base camp at 4,055m, arriving in early October.

The middle reaches of the Obra are dominated by the splendid icy Ranglana (5,554m), which had previously been the main objective of the only other climbing team to visit this valley: the British pair Gerry and Louise Wilson, with Indian Himalaya guru Harish Kapadia and seven friends.

Conditions were poor during a 2006 visit and only a lower summit, Dhodu Ka Gunchha (5,130m), was climbed. Ranglana was not attempted, and neither were the highest peaks, Pts 5,849m and 5,760m, which lie at the head of the valley above the Devkir Glacier. The 2008 expedition climbed Peak 5165m (Alpine PD).

Ranglana and all the other peaks remain unclimbed...still.

You can read the whole report in the following link : http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2878

In November 2009, We are organizing an expedition to the Obra Gad valley with aims to climb several peaks including Ranglana (5554m) and Peak 5760m in Upper Devkir Glacier. The duration of this expedition will be 3 weeks ex Delhi. The image with this post is the peak 5760m.( courtesy The BMC website)

Interested? write me an email for more details.

Trips and Expeditions ahead in 2009

2009-05-22T16:31:00.000+05:30

We are now all set for upcoming expedition to Mount Manirang (6593m) the highest peak in Spiti, Himachal Pradesh. Its going to be small team with faces old and new in Adventure Mania.

Martin Muecke, a climber whom I met in Russia and raced on Elbrus is coming down. Rajeev Ranjan who had joined me in one of exploration treks in remote kishong valley of North Sikkim in 2006 is back with us this year. Matthew Duffy, currently living and working in Mumbai is the new face.

Its going to be same team from Adventure Mania as well with me and Thendup leading the climb; Kiran and Indra will act as support crew. Since I have tried to keep the costs low, it will be a lightweight, semi-alpine style dash on the mountain with the factors of altitude in mind and body. I have called Kaza and Keylong this morning to find out that the high passes of Rhotang and Kunzumla will open by end of this month. And the roads till the last village of our climb is in good condition.

This year, we at Adventure Mania has been suffering terrible from cancellation. I have no hesitation to admit that Adventure Mania is small. We do not have marketing networks or offices. Word of mouth and some contacts in mountaineering community in UK, Ireland, France and Germany gives us work to sustain. I must also admit we have good friends in other countries like the USA or even Iceland! But strangely enough this year work is vaporized.

So has the global recession, the so called financial meltdown panic has hit Himalayan Mountaineering too? I guess the answer is yes! I was talking to my friends in the Indian Mountaineering Foundation the other day. Statistically, there is very little foreign expeditions booking in the Indian Himalaya this year so far. Indian teams are going to the mountains alright, since they never had to pay the huge permit fees ( and most of the Indian mountaineering ventures are either subsided by the Army, IMF or Clubs).

But is it just the panic to lose one's job, thats stopping a climber to travel to India now, or do we have more contributors to that paranoid feeling: terrorism? Swine flu?

But life can not just stop for us who has to climb mountains to sustain with self esteem in this society. So we are still hoping we will get some interests in the following expeditions:

Mt Meru North Expedition- August 6- 27, 2009

We are also inviting people to join our Parangla Trek

Parangla Trek: September 2009

Dates: September 3, 2009- September 26, 2009

This trek will have Yoga Sessions by Hilde Wasserfall (Germany). Please email us for more info.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

September Ladakh Trek & Easter Trek 2010

2009-05-14T17:33:00.002+05:30

Parangla Trek: September 2009
Dates: September 3, 2009- September 26, 2009

Easter Trek to Singalila Ridge: March 2010
Dates: March 27, 2010 to April 11, 2010

Note: both these treks will have Yoga Sessions by Hilde Wasserfall (Germany). Please email us for more info.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: http://www.adventuremania.com/
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com/
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com/
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

west sikkim objectives

2009-05-02T12:59:00.001+05:30

West sikkim objectives around goecha la area. I took this pictures about 10 days ago. This peaks have not been attempted from this side ever. The glacier in the foreground of the pictures is Onglathang glacier. The mountain kanchenjunga is unmistakeable of course. But some of the pictures show opportunites and may be possible lines up Talung, Kabru and Forked peak. There has not been many crossing of the Goechala. Talung glacier can open up a possible approach to Kabru and some lesser peaks from a completely different angle.

I am very excited about my plans to cross Goechala this month and then traverse the Talung glacier to the East and then follow the river all the way down to Mangan. It has NOT been done for last 120 years. Claude White the first political officer to Sikkim did this exploration expedition in 1890. I was lucky to find his book in the Darjeeling Oxford book store and since then it has been insipiring me to go on this journey following his footsteps.

I think if I can do this I will come back with some unforseen photographs of South Simvu and Tongshiong glaciers and its peaks and approaches.

Till a voice, as bad as Conscience

2009-03-29T10:33:00.001+05:30

"There's no sense in going further--it's the edge of cultivation,
So they said, and I believed it--broke my land and sowed my crop--
Built my barns and strung my fences in the little border station
Tucked away below the foothills where the trails run out and stop:

Till a voice, as bad as Conscience, rang interminable changes
On one everlasting Whisper day and night repeated--so:
"Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges--
"Something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!"...

The Explorer- Rudyard Kipling

On one everlasting Whisper day...

I have always tried to inspire myself ( not succeeded always though). Sometimes when all the Bob Dylan, David Gray, Kipling, treks and climbs on well known path seem a little dull; its time for me to " look behind the ranges.."

Well looks like its going to be another of those crazy projects that I have had in the past!

My job takes to me to the spectacular Onglathang Valley many times a year. A valley guarded by the mighty mountains. Kangchendzonga, Kabru, Talung, Pandim, Tinchinkhang, Jopuno...Giants and Lepcha demigods! Sometimes climbing, sometimes purely for guiding a trekkking group to the high mountain pass of Goecha la. The funny yet frustrating thing about this Goecha la trek is that one only goes up to the pass following the Yoksum- Tsokha- Dzongri- Thangsing- Lamoni- Sungmoteng Lake trail and come back down the same valley. No one crosses the pass and descend to the other side, the Talung Glacier and follow the Talung river down to reach the green valley of Dzongu, the Lepcha territory. No one? Well, not in last 119 years!

In July 1890, J. Claude White ( the first British political officer to Sikkim 1887 to 1908) did the first and quite possibly the last recorded crossing of Goecha La. Starting from Onglathang side he crossed the pass, traversed the Talung glacier, and followed the river system down to the Lepcha sanctuary known as Dzongu in North Sikkim. I am quoting the following lines from his book " Sikhim and Bhutan, Twenty-One years on the North East Frontier, 1887-1908", page 53:

"...In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows, crossing the Giucha-La Pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a route the latter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and I doubt by any one, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha...."

In 2006 and 2007, I had repeatedly visited Upper Dzongu area in order to explore the myth of the wild man of Sikkim; the Bon Manchi! My trips took me to the South East flanks of Siniolchu, the snout of Zumthul Phuk glacier and also visited Kishongla. I found there a lot more than one can find in Google Earth, tourist brochures, websites or any modern map. I found a pass named after the elusive 'Yeti'. The pass is called 'Mige La'( Migou, or Migu as they call the Yeti in Tibetan dialects). But thats another story.

Out of my sheer interest and respect for the Lepcha traditions and culture I visited the Tholung Monestary and the remote Dzongu villages a few times. Sakyong, Pentong, Lingzya are the villages where Claude White reached after his epic crossing. I am familiar with the villages as I have spent many nights there already, talking to the locals, trying to gather more information on the terrain that lies beyond their last cultivated fields and yak shelters. But it seems no one has gone beyond 1 full day's hike after the last village of Sakyong. No one,not even the ever enterprising himalayan shepherds.

Now that is what increases my interest and a sense of challenge in this project. The element of unknown. Just the right amount of mystery to make my adventure worth. If I am succesful, I will dedicate this to the spirit of exploration of J.Claude White, who deserves to be remembered as one of the pioneer explorers of Sikkim and Bhutan along with Dr. Kellas, Graham, Freshfield.

This journey will also enable me to take photographs of some hitherto unseen glaciers, like the South Simvu glacier and its peaks, their accessibility and feasibilty.

In 1890 what White achieved was great even though he was accompanied by a group of porters, and sherpas. In his account he did not specify how many men he had on his expedition. But from his description and the practices of that time, I assume that he had at least 10. In order to honour that courage I have decided to attempt his feat in a 2 men team. Being a fan of Shipton- Tilman style of exploration myself, its going to be just me and my climbing partner Thendup.

Thats it for now. If anyone has any information on this area and history please share with me.Cheers to the spirit of exploration and freedom of the hills!!!

We hope to start this adventure on May 12, 2009 from Darjeeling.

Colours

2009-03-10T11:26:00.001+05:30

The sky is grey

what should have been seen as a challenge

seem to have taken shape of a cancer

and my vision is unclear

my naked ape instincts are fading and

holi is here...

our very own festival of colours

can the colours heal these wounds

of this 'slumdog' existance

even though they give oscars to our scars of shame

and 'booker' to white tigers

its time to escape

to the mountains...

Clean Singalila Images

2009-02-18T09:07:00.001+05:30

5 persons, 4 days and we brought down 200 kilos of platsic litter and another 100 kilos of misc garbage. They were brought down to the incineretor at the Darjeling zoo (thanks to Sumita Ghatak, DFO, Wildlife-I, Darjeeling)!

Wonder if this action that we have just done becomes infectious, and everyone starts picking up litter from the Singalila trails, the Army (SSB to be specific) stops throwing their empty alcohol bottles outside their camps, the private tea house owners collect plastic litter and keep their neighbourhood clean!!!! Imagine.. a better, cleaner mountains....( since we have raped our cities alreday...)...spare the mountains..if you please!

Litter Free Singalila

2009-02-16T14:07:00.001+05:30

Yesterday, when we reached the Darjeeling Zoo with 200 kilos of plastic litter and 100 kilos of mixed garbage and put it in the incinerator, it was a moment of satisfaction! In past 4 days, 5 of us worked on the Singalila Ridge trails and picked up as much rubbish as possible!

It has been our continuous effort to act as a responsible trekking outfit and we will continue to do so in the days to come. I will post pictures and a short report here on my blog soon.

I would like to thank our friends for their support and trust:

Sumita Ghatak-Divisional Forest Officer- Wildlife -I
Sabyasachi Talukdar- Uttar Banga Sambad
Satyajit Kar- Ria Mount Support
Suman Guhaneogy- Yak Equipments
Sikhar Lodge- Tumling
Siddhartha Lodge- Tumling
Pandim Lodge- Kalipokhri

hopefully we will be able to come out with a regular cleaning process on the Singalila Ridge soon.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Cleaning The Singalila Ridge 2009

2009-01-27T11:36:00.001+05:30

Dear friends,

The cleaning programme to Singalila Ridge is finalized and happening. The itinerary is as follows:

Feb 12: Manebhanjan- Tonglu (Thursday)

Feb 13: Tonglu- kalipokhri (Friday)

Feb 14: Kalipokhri- Sandakhphu (Saturday)

Feb 15: Sandakphu- Manebhanjan (Sunday)

Notes: This is not a profit making venture. We at Adventure Mania do this Singalila National Park cleaning drive every year. Your contribution will help us pay our staff and the necessary running cost of the trip.

we will accept Rs 2100 per person who wishes to join this venture
this cost will cover there camping and food
on prior notice we will arrange train/airport transfers to Manebhanjan
please try to reach manebhanjan by 3pm on Feb 12
please do not hesitate to get in touch with me if you have any query

cheers!

Adventure Mania

www.adventuremania.com

http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya

t:+91 97487 61139

m:+91 92305 11139

Singapore!

2009-01-23T20:56:00.001+05:30

Its been too much of ' could have been' and 'should have been' s in my thought and life lately. But roaming around the Esplanade this morning, I have decided NOT to live in the past anymore. :-) It's time for some action! Travelling to Alaska and climbing Denali seems too far fetched this year, but an invitation to climb Eiger, sounds seriously interesting to me!

Have been having a very different holiday in Singapore now, for the last few days. In the past, I have always travelled with a purpose, a goal. Either to climb a mountain, or to develop business. But this time its normal tourist existance. Which seemed boring in the beginning, but slowly its sinking in me, and making me think and ponder. haha!

Had fantastic time in the ' National Geographic' stores this evening...memorable indeed!

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Spiti Expedition 2009

2009-01-12T10:29:00.001+05:30

Spiti Expedition 2009

PEAKS TO BE CLIMBED:

1- MANIRANG 6593M

2- SAPONANG 5836M

3- GHUNSARANG 5800M

4- MANIRANG WEST 5888M

5- UNNAMED PEAK 6223M

DURATION:

· 3 WEEKS(ex Delhi) for climbing Manirang and Manirang West

· additional 1 week for climbing Saponang, Ghunsarang & peak 6223m

BEST SEASON OF CLIMBING: JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER

Brief History: Manirang was first climbed by Dr J. de V. Graaff and party in 1952. In 1988, Indian Paratroopers made the second ascent of this peak. In 1994, the third ascent of Manirang was made by an Indo-British Team. In 2006, we climbed Manirang. This was the fourth ascent of the mountain.

If we can make additional incentive summits. We will be able to make the second ascent of Saponang (5836m), Ghunsarang (5800m),And the first ascent of Unnamed Peak 6223m!

Costs Involved:

Special offer of US$ 2500 per person available for a limited period only. Please contact ASAP to avail this discounted price.
To learn more about this Expedition and our services details please email us.

Type: Ideal for experimenting Alpine style ascent on a Himalayan peak

Grade: Major Mountaineering Expedition with basic snow & ice climbing skills

Cost Include:

IMF peak royalty

Restricted Area Fees*as applicable

Liaison Officer Cost

Environment Levy

State Government Fees

Airport Transfer

All accommodation in hotels/guest houses en route road head

All major meals, breakfast en route road head

Hotel in Delhi*

All transport to and fro Delhi

All food up to Base Camp and High Camps

Porters/ponies up to Base Camp

Cook, Kitchen helper in Base

High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc

Climbing Guide's* support up to Summit

Base Camp Manager*

Base Camp Tents for Members, Kitchen and Dining Tent

Kitchen Utensils and Fuel

Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc

Cost Exclude:

Food, transport in Delhi

International flights, Airport Tax, Visa costs

Insurance

Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any

Cost of evacuation in case on accidents or emergencies

Any expense of personal nature

Tips, Laundry, Bar Bills, Telephone Calls, Mineral water

Customs Clearance

Special Offer Price US$ 2500 per person for July-August, 2009 only.

Terms and Conditions:

1-Offer valid for the month of July-August 2009 only

2- Booking should reach us by March 31, 2009

3- Price valid only for Manirang and Manirang West peaks.

ADVENTURE MANIA GRADING SYSTEM

WALK UP

Generally hands are not required, nor are ice axe/crampons during ideal conditions. Climbs vary in steepness, and may or may not be on trails.

SCRAMBLE

Easy to moderate rock climbing, hand holds are required for upward movement. Ropes may or may not be required.

BASIC SNOW/ICE CLIMB

Requires ice axe and crampons; routes are of varying degree of steepness; may or may not require a hanging belay.

TECHNICAL ROCK &/OR ICE

Presents fundamental challenges beyond those of a basic climb. Requires advanced rock and/or ice climbing techniques, and may or may not require climbing aids.

MAJOR MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION

Difficult climbs, generally lasting several days or weeks, with serious technical challenges and potentially hazardous climbing conditions. Often these require porters, multiple camps, and/or supply drops.

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Plastic Cleaning Programme: Singalila National Park

2009-01-09T16:40:00.002+05:30

PLASTIC CLEANING PROGRAMME : SINGALILA NATIONAL PARK

February 12, 2009: Tonglu
February 13, 2009: Kalipokhri
February 14, 2009: Sandakphu
February 15, 2009: Closing of Camp

Important Notes:

Cleaning Palstic garbage from Singalila Ridge is an effort by Adventure Mania. We need and welcome volunteers and Sponsors. As we will be hiking our way up to Sandakphu from Manebhanjan, we will be picking up plastic and other garbage along the trail. After April 2008, this is going to be our second such venture on the Singalila Ridge.

persons interested to join this venture can come directly to our camp at Tonglu/Sandakphu
at prior notice, we can arrange for transport to the trail head before and after trek,
private transport can be organized from Siliguri town, New Jalpaiguri Railway Station and/or Bagdogra airport
volunteers can choose to stay in our camp. Tents, Sleeping mats and food will be provided
volunteers can choose to make their travel and trekking arrangements on their own, and can still be a part of this venture
for more information please call or email Raja: 97487 61139; anindya.aventuremania@gmail.com

Adventure Mania

www.adventuremania.com

http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya

t:+91 97487 61139

m:+91 92305 11139

Plastic Cleaning Programme at the Singalila National Park

2009-01-06T21:47:00.001+05:30

We at Adventure Mania feel that apart from organizing Treks and Mountainnering Expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, we have a lot to give back to our community, to our nature. As a result we have been invloved and commited to Porter projects and Cleaning camps.

In April 2008, we had a very succesful plastic cleaning programme in the Singalila National Park. School kids, nature lovers, trekkers and local porters joined hands to clean up piled up rubbish as they trekked along the Singalila Ridge. With kind support from Miss Sumita Ghatak, D.F.O, we could bring down the garbage and destroy it at the Darjeeling Zoo.

Keeping our tradition of Clean Singalila Programme alive, we are organizing the cleaning trip from February 12 to February 15, 2009.

Anyone and everyone is welcome to join this venture and strengthen our effort. We need your active support and are open to suggestions and advise.

Some pictures from 2008 Clean Singalila Programme are attached with this post and can also be seen on my blog.

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

mountains in my mind...

2008-12-13T16:03:00.001+05:30

mountains in our mind...mountains to climb in 2009...

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

What we did in 2008! A report from Adventure Mania...

2008-12-11T12:10:00.001+05:30

2008~Year of the Magic Panda!

4 mountaineering expeditions, 6 summits, 5 treks, 1 cleaning expedition on the Singalila Ridge,1 charitable project for mountain porters,1 crazy race on Mount Elbrus, many new friends, fire in Sikkim project, no accidents or sickness in any of our trips…that's 2008 for Adventure Mania…and another year in a mountain guide's life!

Cold, crisp 3000m air on the Singalila Ridge, rising Sun over Tiger Hill in the distance, mighty Kangchendzonga massif shining, smiling over the North. Short of breath as I ran up the hill, I suddenly realized this is where it all started for me. Singalila Ridge has always been like home coming. I was only 4 years when I had come here for the first time. I was with my parents. Back then in 1975, they did not have all the tea houses and so many people around. Since that first visit, I have been on the Singalila Ridge, trekking with friends, leading groups; for more than 50 times! I have lost count.

I was lost in nostalgia and sat down on top of a boulder. It felt comfortable, I felt at home! It was then the Red Panda appeared from behind a bush. It wasn't expecting a human on top of that hill on a January morning; neither have I ever imagined seeing a Red Panda in the wild, especially on the Singalila Ridge!

I guess we both had that element of being surprised in our eyes. So we looked into each others eyes for a few minutes. We were both calm and then he turned and left. I wanted to follow, but I wish I could!

Back in my tea house room, when I mentioned the encounter, she said, it must be a 'magic panda'! Today, as I write this report, I sincerely believe that it WAS a 'magic panda'! Because, me as a 'Himalayan Guide' and 'Adventure Mania' as a company excelled in 2008!

In 2008, we did 4 mountaineering expeditions! They include Kalanag (6387m), Unnamed Peaks in Panpatia Glacier (we climbed 4 unclimbed peaks ranging 5200m to 5678m), Shivling- West Ridge (6543m) and unnamed peak( 6000m) in West Sikkim. We missed the summit of Shivling as we could not force a route on the blue water ice wall over 6100m. It was a tough decision to turn back, but safety rules. So after Adventure Mania's 6 years of operation in the Indian Himalaya, and 18 full scale mountaineering expeditions, we haven't had a single accident!

Apart from the mountaineering ventures, we did 5 treks. From North Sikkim to Himachal Pradesh, from Tholung Monastery to Rupin Pass, all the treks were successful and they kept us on our toes through out the year.

Me as a Himalayan Guide and Adventure Mania feel proud to organize and guide The Right Honourable The Lord Mance, and Lady Arden on their Singalila Ridge trek. I am thankful to Sri Milan Kumar Banerjee, former Attorney General of India and His Lordship Biswanath Somadder for their trust on me as Himalayan Guide.

Adventure Mania continues to work with Community Action Treks, U.K. and is proud to be associated with Doug Scott and his charity efforts. Di has retired, but its fun to interact with Captain Tek. Adventure Mania is also very fortunate to have worked with Alan Tees, President, Mountaineering Council of Ireland and his team in Panpatia Glacier Exploration climbing. I am thankful to The Iceland Garhwal Expedition for entrusting upon us the responsibility of leading and guiding their Shivling West Ridge expedition in October 2008. I am of course ever thankful to my friend Haukur Parelius Finsson (Nature Explorer Iceland), for standing by me and enriching me with his brilliant marketing ideas.

Thendup has done some fantastic work as my lead Sherpa this year again and so is Kiran. He is coming up very well with his strength and rock climbing skills. Very soon Kiran will be ready to assist Thendup in high mountains. Mingma and Indra are outstanding mountain chefs. They are the real heroes of Adventure Mania.

But the newest member to the Adventure Mania family is Hilde Wasserfall. Hilde is a Yoga Instructor from Germany, who is also a keen trekker. With her help we are going to introduce Yoga sessions in some of our Himalaya Treks.

Now, if you will excuse me, I have plans to make for 2009. Mountains to climb, glaciers to reccee, passes to cross and friends to make! If you want to join any of our trips, treks, expeditions please email me.

Cheers! Happy Holidays! Merry Christmas!!! To one and all!

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139p
m:+91 92305 11139

adventuremania strikes again!

2008-12-03T11:43:00.001+05:30

It was short and sweet! Took us only 4 days to climb this mountain from our base( 4100m), with its summit just over 6000m in Sikkim. Summit on November 28, a very lightweight style ascent and very cold indeed. I have inclinations to go back and do a proper winter climb on this mountain! Its been a succesful climbing and trekking year 2008! We have managed to remain safe and yet succesful!

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Quest for the Bon Manchi

2008-11-04T16:31:00.005+05:30

“…the name given to the wild men varies according to the area. The Chitrali call them Jangali Mosh ('man of the forest, wild man'). The name Almasti ('the one who eats a lot') is rare. The most common name in the South is the word Barmanu ('the strong or muscular man') and is etymologically close to the Hindi word Ban Manus, meaning 'Man of the forest'… “- Jordi Magraner, North Pakistan Expedition

The Quest Begin

After countless black americanos with Himalayan veteran Robin Banerjee, in a coffee bar in Esplanade area of Kolkata, it was finally happening. We were off to North Sikkim for yet another adventure of the unknown. An exploration trek was ahead of us in the uncharted catchments of the upper Ringi Chu valley. In to a great valley guarded by the Eastern flanks of a so called beauty- Siniolchu and Lama Ongden, the mountain in meditation. Only this time our goal was not reaching a summit or crossing a high mountain pass. This time our goal was elusive. This time we would follow myths, old lamas’ tales, legends, folklores and some first hand accounts of locals among some of North Sikkim unseen or less known valleys, ridges, glaciers.

Escaping the hectic, humid Kolkata (used to be called ‘Calcutta’) is always a pleasure. A 12 hour overnight train and a good 5 hour drive on the Himalayan Mountain roads took us to Burtuk, in the outskirts of Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim. Everything started to cool down after an evening in Burtuk. We were hosted by friends Binuka Dungmali and Karma Lepcha. Karma works for the Sikkim Police department while his wife Binuka is a school teacher in the village of Bay (the last village on way to Tholung Monastery) in Dzongu. After a few rounds of Tyongba (a mildly alcoholic warm drink made from using ‘kodo’ millets), everything started to fall in to their respective places. I could see clearly now. I could think straight and I could plan the job ahead. This is what I call detoxification. Detoxification of one’s soul from the toxins of our mundane lives (well...if we can call it a life!). It was not just the drink, you see, it’s the fresh mountain air, the thought that we will be away from the social toxins for the next few weeks, had their synergistic effect on me. And I was ready!

Dzongu: the Lepcha territory

The next step was a drive. A drive to Mangan, the district head quarters of North Sikkim. 3 hours on dusty, bumpy, winding roads and we were in Mangan bazaar. The area where we were venturing in to is locally known as Dzongu. And to enter we needed a special permit, yes, even for us Indians! A few hours passed, and we had that invaluable piece of paper called the “Permit”! We were all relieved as without that piece of paper our adventure could very well end in Mangan bazaar. Sharing our joy of relief was Zamyong Lepcha. Zamyong, an old friend is the son of Bhutia Tsering Lepcha. I knew Zamyong from the 2 previous visits to this valley, in 2001 and 2003 respectively. Bhutia Tsering is the head master of Lingzya village school, our road head for the trek up Ringi Chu Valley.

Some shopping in the Mangan bazaar and we were off in Zamyong’s jeep towards Lingzya village. To drive 25 kms took 1 hour. It was like returning home. The warmth in our host’s hearts reflected in their hospitality. Next morning after a hearty breakfast, we were ready to take on 20 km uphill track up to Tholung Gompa. A long & sweaty day, starting from less than msl 4000ft. at the end of the day we were at 8160ft. 7 hours later we left Lingzya we reached the ancient monastery of Tholung. Had a very interesting afternoon spent with the Head Lama; popularly called as “Myong Thiung”. In Lepcha language Myong Thiung means the ‘Old Man of the Village’. Our Myong Thiung is actually a very high priest in the Gyelukpa sect in entire Sikkim.

Sips of ‘Chhang’ and stories dating back decades infused enough mystery and charm immediately into our drinks and to the unknown days ahead.
Our discussions moved around Yeti to Wildman, Migou to Bon Manchi.
From unknown Zumthul Phuk river catchments to Kishong la. At night, before hitting the sack, I was lost in thought. I thought and wondered about the Valley we were about to explore and what lay ahead. Needless to mention that I only fantasized about nice rewarding experiences to come and no misadventures at all!

The Plan Divine

Talung - the name itself is fascinating. It brings an air of the unknown. The mystery; the thrill; the magnetism; the challenge of the unknown. Perhaps that’s why we were there. The Zumthul Phuk Glacier, which only exists on a map. Kishong la, a rarely visited high mountain pass! Tholung Gompa- an eighteenth century Buddhist Monastery where ancient relics of Guru Rimpoche is protected along with a mummy of a dead King! Of Lama Ongden (also spelled Lama Angden), the mountain that crowns the head of the valley overlooks the pristine Kishong Lake, in meditation for ever. Everything seemed like parts of a divine plan! Next morning, the sky was clear. We trekked thorough real dense greenery. The jungle became more and more awe inspiring. It seemed as if it kept so many secrets from us. We the tiny dots soon became refreshing blood suppliers to the thousands of leeches. Tell you what; these blood thirsty creatures did not fit in my divine plan at all! No way!

After 4½ hours we reached Temrong and soon we crossed a log bridge on Zumthul Chu and found our nights shelter in a Yak Hut (locally called as ‘goath’). Soon we had a fire going and to our extreme relief, no more leech! Thank God!

Zumthul Phuk: Of Guts and Glory

Back in Tholung Gompa, we had heard about a barrier, a big black rock wall that guards all possible entrances to the unknown Zumthul Phuk valley. The story of this “Wall” had dampened some of our spirits, but we did not give Zumthul Phuk a ‘walk over’ as yet. Because, from the maps we knew, that a big glacier exists at the head of this roaring Zumthul Chu (the word ‘chu’ means a river) and that glacier is born from the SE flanks of Siniolchu. No human being, including the Lepcha hunters of Dzongu has ever dared in to this valley! That evening Zamyong’s uncle joined us and strengthened our small team.

Next morning, we prepared ourselves with food and gear and entered the virgin forests of Zumthul Phuk. The basic idea of navigation was to stay close to the river course and go upstream. Simple it may sound; but it turned out to be an extremely dangerous and difficult affair! We crossed 19 streams as we forced our way up the true left of Zumthul Chu. We traversed numerous rock bands. Moist, damp rock bands, some of them were exposing us strait down hundreds of feet to the mighty river. And then we faced the ‘barrier’. With the very first glance at the rock wall we could chalk out a route. And we climbed that blasted rock with great zeal. The monster of the ‘barrier’ seemed to be kind to us. We peeled off thick layers of moss from the rock surface and found our foot and hand holds. It was interesting! May be that was an under statement. Doing a free climb in an uncharted territory is definitely more than just ‘interesting’! But from a rock climber’s point of view it was a scramble, not a climb (after spending a few days with Alan Tees in Donegal, North Ireland!).

For eight long hours we forced our way upstream. Sometimes tackling the wet slabs, sometimes hanging shakily from the rhododendron branches and finally building a log bridge over Zumthul Chu; we managed to reach a point from where we could see the peaks of Zumthul Phuk. I took bearings and could spot ourselves on the map. Standing on top of a big boulder on the true right bank of Zumthul Chu; we could see that how close to the snout of Zumthul Phuk we were. I took some snaps in steadily deteriorating weather and visibility. One of the members had a nasty fall and a miraculous escape from getting blown away by the cascading river. Another 5 hours, and we were all back safely in the Yak hut. A long day indeed!

What we discovered from our short adventure in Zumthul Phuk is precious! A glacier is out there, waiting for explorers and climbers to play for the very first time. The climbers or explorers whosoever they are; will of course need a load of guts to reach the glacier. And then only they can expect glory! Because all the rock faces, buttresses, gullies and at the end of it all, summits are awaiting their first ascents.

Darkness came. With it came peace. As if our aspirations also needed a bed to crash. But a big animal came very close to our shelter that night and was curious about us inside. Next morning from its droppings we could figure that it was a Himalayan Black Bear! We were glad that the bear did not decide to explore our shaky shelter! We felt like trespassers in their sanctuary. It was time to move toward our next destination- Kishong La. But we came across no Bon Manchi. No trace of him, yet!

Kishong La: The Pass of Demons and Demigods

Rain, rain, and more rain. The time we had chosen, may be was not just right! But who the hell cares; especially when you are drenched to the bones. We pushed ahead, ignoring the continuous shower. No matter what, we will give it a go! And that was it. The trail conditions worsened. Uphill all the way for 2 hours and reached small meadow called Labyok (11000ft) - an abandoned Yak Hut. Another hour of uphill struggle and we were in Thijom. Lower portions of the Dawathang Valley and a glimpse of Ringi Lama were visible. Thijom is around 12000ft. We looked beyond and a big rock wall guarded our view. It reminded me of the Great Baranco Wall of Kilimanjaro. Our route lay ahead up that giant wall. But as we approached the wall, a narrow, serpent trail appeared. Surprisingly, it turned out to be a nice walk up the wall. A steady gain of 1500 ft and we reached the alpine meadows of Thalakpe (13600ft). A night was spent in the log hut of Thalakpe. To the locals it is also known as the Kishong Hut. It was nice to be in dry clothes and enjoy a nice warm dinner by the fire.

Our senses became wide awake next morning; as we waded knee-deep icy stream of the Kishong Chu. A great green wide alp was ahead of us. An hour later we reached the camping grounds of Dikithang. We pitched our small 2 person tents beside the Yak herdsmen’s rather big camp.

Next morning, we headed for Kishong La. The higher we climbed; the weather worsened. The word ‘visibility’ sounded like a big fat joke! No point exploring, right? Wrong! We decided to move on. It was difficult to stick to the right path; especially when there isn’t any! But we managed to stay on course and after 4 hours of confusion and determination, reached Kishong La (15600ft).The cairns on the top, a gentle slope rising towards Lama Ongden and the Northern slopes rolling down to the Zemu Chu valley (towards yakthang/zaktahng). I took some useless foggy snapshots. My friend Zamyong was more than happy to be able to reach Kishong La. From this day I declare you ‘guide’; I joked. Zamyong was a proud Lepcha! He can now boast about in Mangan bazaar for the rest of his life and may be get free booze!

It was time to retrace our steps back to Dikithang camp. My tired, wet pair of legs brought me back to my tent. Soon we were all together, circling around the shepherd’s fire; sipping strong black coffee. The valley wind had risen considerably. We could hear it howling over our rolling laughter. The Shepherd’s wife said, the mountain spirits are not happy, as you humans have ventured in to the sanctum sanctorum of their temple!

A visit to the Yeti Pass

But the next statement coming from her (the shepherd’s wife) was not that easy to ignore! “There’s another mountain pass here. It’s called Mige La, very close to this Yak shed even. Migou (also spelled ‘Migoo’ or ‘Migo’ sometimes) –s used to whistle from that pass overlooking this yak shed; that’s why we shepherds have named it Mige La (‘La’ means a mountain pass in Bhotia/ Tibetan language).” And there was not a shadow of doubt or hesitation in her words when she spoke of the Migou. All the others present in the yak shed nodded to their approval. Yeti, or Migou or the Bon Manchi exists; there was no denying the fact.

Now I just learnt a couple of new things from the nomadic Shepherd’s wife. One, there exists a mountain pass in the Himalaya named after the famed Migou or Yeti. Two, Yeti’s call is like a whistling note. It may look abominable (!); but it does have a big foot!

So, next morning there I was climbing towards Mige La. Not that I was expecting to make a sudden discovery; the thought of venturing to an uncharted mountain pass was exciting enough for me. It took us two hours to reach Mige La. At an altitude of 4600m, it was snow clad in April. There we found very old cairns on top of the pass, built by the yak herdsmen. Old pile of small boulders and rocks. Old, but prominent. Visibility was as poor as it could be! In spite of that I took some pictures with the cairn and my companions Zamyong and Sukhraj. On the way down Sukhraj pointed towards a strange impression on the snow. It was not big. I thought it might be of a snow leopard, or even a bear. But my companions were quite familiar with leopard or bear pugmarks. They insisted it belonged to none other than the Migou! Well, I still don’t know what it was. But at that moment it felt nice to believe in their words. May be we should and we would come back one day soon with a scientific expedition to this area and find out. But on the way back to my tent, I realized that I have started to believe in the stories of the Shepherd’s wife.

It won’t be completely out of place if I quote another traveler’s account from the same region. Carsten Nebel who is a keen Himalayan trekker and has particular interests in less known Sikkim ranges, shares his story in an email to me. He was traveling in the same area later that year in 2006. His email is as follows:

“Hi Raja …I just realized I haven't typed in the detailed travelogue yet, so here is anad-hoc report but I'm afraid it will not help you much. Mid-November 2006 I crossed the Kishong La from the Zemu-side. I had ten porters from Lachen plus a cook from Nepal with me. We started from Yaktang (aka Zachen) and walked up the rhododendron-covered slopes. Snow became knee-high in the afternoon and we set up camp in the valley an hour before the pass. There were quite a few animal tracks around.
I went to my tent after dinner, and must have slept for an hour or so whenthe guide woke me up agitated, and told me to move the tent closer to thefire. When I asked why, he told me they heard noises and laughter from theridge above. Since no other human being is up here, it must be a yeti, hetold me. I personally did not hear any noises the entire night, and if I hadwould probably have assumed that it was just an animal. But since he wassincerely worried about me (and the crew and himself of course), I did movethe tent closer to the fire. The porters threw tsampa and salt in the fire,muttered some prayers, and did not sleep well or much that night.The next day we cleared camp, crossed the pass in deep snow and stayed inthe first hut high up in the Tholung valley. There again were many animals’tracks, but no more worries about yetis.Personally I'm very, very skeptical about yetis, but I'm sure it is worthinvestigating the area more closely, even if just to spend time up there andseeing all the wildlife. I'd love to do it myself one day, the upper Tholungvalley must be wonderful, but I guess you know that already since you spentmore time there then I did ;)If you have new information, let's stay in touch.Regards,Carsten18 November,2007”
Excerpts from Jordi Magraner’s North Pakistan Expedition
“…No animal in Chitral is able to produce such sounds. Even the jackal living in this country cannot produce such a powerful whine, and this is important. Moreover jackals howl during long periods, sometimes all night long. The whines also call to mind the moan of certain marine birds such as Laridae (gulls) or Procellaridae (Shearwaters), but no such birds live in the Kashgarian Mountains, even during migration periods. Gulls and Shearwaters keep away from forestland. The next day, shepherds who had heard the cries, maintained it was a "Forest Man" (a wild Man).”
(Note: the detailed findings of Jordi’s expedition in North Pakistan is included at the end of this article for the reader’s reference)
Tosa: a hidden haven for the Bon Manchi?
The bit of information above from the North Pakistan Expedition makes it even more interesting for my trips in North Sikkim. In June-July 2006, a friend of mine Arjun Saha from Kolkata went in to Tosa lakes region. He was scouting for our expedition which was coming up later that winter. He had quite an interesting story to share on his return from Tosa. Here are a few lines from Arjun’s journal:
"The sky became glittering blue removing the layers of cloud after the night's rain and wind. We took our way back under the soft sunlight of the morning. The returning was on the same route. When we reached Mayal Patam (a campsite and yak shelter in the Tosa Valley) we saw that, the yak shelter owner was present. A big hairy dog was accompanying him. The old man was sad. The bears had taken four of his sheep. The bears attacked his sheep during last night's storm. We spent some time in his shelter and started our journey towards Gaon-tar. We reached there in the afternoon.

Here two Goaths (Nepalese for ‘yak shelters’) are situated nearby. We took shelter at the Nepalese boy's Goath. …I don’t know when I got to sleep, but suddenly I woke up. I could see that, everybody was sleeping and the goath's door was absolutely open. Actually there was no such thing called a 'Door'. Just two wooden planks were used to block the entrance. But it was not there now. Out side was nicely visible under the soft moonlight. I could remember that the next day was ‘Laxmi Poornima’, a full moon night. I set the planks on the entrance and got into the sleeping bag. But sleeping was not being possible for me. Something strange was haunting me. As if somebody was walking outside the yak shelter. There was about one to three inches gap between the wooden planks of the goath wall. So outside was partly visible. I tried but couldn't see anything. Suddenly a loud, long whistle like sound came from the upper slopes of the forest. And after that, some short whistles started in regular intervals.

I thought that, the whistles might have been coming from the night birds of the jungle. Now sound of movements inside the goath. Figu has waked up. I could even hear voice of Tsering and Tashi. I realized that my friends were all waked like me. Have they heard anything? The wood fire was still alive. Figu poured some dhoop (incense) into it and the scent spread all over the room. I tried to sleep, but again the sound of movements outside. Some cattle of the goath owner were scattered outside the goath. I saw them in evening not interested at all to move around. Now it was midnight and cold air was blowing outside. And they would move around, was simply not acceptable. Yet I tried to see through the goath wall and saw a few of them were at a stand still. Was it a bear? Then an agitation should have come from the cattle. But nothing happened like that. So it was not a bear. Then 'who' or 'what' it was? I kept thinking and finally got asleep at late night.

When I woke up, it was morning. The kettle was set on fire. Quite naturally the incidents of the last night came into our discussion. My friends all agreed that, somebody was walking around the goath last night. Tsering's comment made me thinking .He was convinced that from the upper jungle, something or someone had walked down and circled our hut. Tsering's sense was very strong. I was very much aware of that. It was his statement that, the creature who was whistling from the jungle, invisible, walking around the goath, was nothing but 'Bon Manchi’.”
The Tosa Valley
We went in to Tosa valley twice (first during November 2006 and then in the following Christmas) and the lakes that lie at the very end of the valley. We climbed two peaks in the 4500m range near the Tosa lakes. As both were first ascents we could not resist christening them! One was called the ‘Spirit of Tosa’ as it overlooked the entire Tosa valley and the other was called ‘Jameri’. After our two visits to Tosa, I had prepared a proposal to the Government of Sikkim regarding recognizing the trekking potential there. This proposal went to the Department of Tourism and the Chief Minister’s office through my friend Karma Lepcha. I am quoting a few lines from that proposal here to give some idea of what lies there:

“The only potential trekking route in Sikkim that offers the greatest panorama of almost all the Himalayan giants located in Sikkim. While trekking to Dzongri-Goechala circuit one has to be satisfied with partial views of Kangchendzonga group of peaks only; here one can gaze at the distant Gurudongmar Range and Dongkya Range Mountains as well as the familiar Singalila Range. The trek also offers great opportunity to experience the lush green vegetation of moist, temperate forests as well as alpine meadows. From orchids to tree ferns, Tragopans to Snow Leopards the flora and fauna is rich and diverse. Starting from as low as 5000ft, one can hike up to 13000ft in about a week’s time, with plenty of camping grounds to choose from en route. Most importantly, these camping areas are free from crowding hikers, as this trail is still almost unknown; thereby making the trail a bird watcher’s and nature lovers paradise! The high point of the trek is the holy Tosa lakes. Protected by snow clad peaks, Tosa lakes have been known to the local nomadic shepherds for ages. But for some unknown reason no outsider is reported to have ventured in to the beautiful valley.”
The most striking thing about the journey to Tosa happened the very first day of our trek from the village of Phamtam. Phamtam is about an hour’s drive from Gangtok. After spending a night in Phamtam and chatting with some of the villagers, we were fascinated by the stories of the Bon Manchi. We spoke to the village school teacher, farmers, hunters, and our porters. All of them were convinced of the existence of the Bon Manchi. According to them this creature is about 4-5 feet tall. Hairy, biped and can vanish into thin air! Its capability to go invisible has given it some sort of Godly status. The invisibility thing is probably due to camouflaging capabilities of this creature in question. But whenever they spoke of it, a certain sparkle of conviction and truth glittered in their eyes.
In the first day of our trek we had to climb from 4000ft to 9000ft in 7hours (as there were no suitable campsites in between) and one of our porters gave us some yak hair. He told us to keep that bunch of yak hair in our pockets to protect us from the Bon Manchi! We came across countless pugmarks from leopards, bears near our campsites everyday, while exploring up and down the valley. While spending a night in a yak hut near Mayal Patam we also saw a red panda in the wild. That indeed was a rare privilege. My friend Kevin was able to photograph it even as it was soaking the afternoon sun. We also spent nights in the yak shelter where our friend Arjun had his memorable night and reported to have heard unknown whistling calls! Our porters, especially Tsering was not keen at all to spend another night in that Yak Shelter. We had the same batch of porters as Arjun had and they were telling us about that night. They were convinced about the existence of the Bon Manchi. They never cause any harm to the humans or cattle according to them.
We collected more accounts of Bon Manchi related stories from Tsering and his lads. And to our greatest excitement we came across a fresh track made by some unknown biped animal near Anden top. The tracks looked like footprints! More like footprints of a kid walking bare feet on snow. It was early hours in the day and we were climbing from our camp at Bushpatey towards the high point of Anden. I took some pictures of the track that seemed to have crossed our trail and went into thick bamboo clad slopes of Anden.

Directions for the future
Stories of Bon Manchi are living and actual in many Lepcha villages In North Sikkim. According to their stories it seems like a hairy, biped, which is able to camouflage itself very well. Their anatomical description has some similarity with the Pakistan Wildman and the Orang Pendek. No one describes it as an ‘abominable snowman’ or a ‘big foot’. The level of conviction in these peoples mind whenever they refer to the Bon Manchi is striking. This makes me somehow connect to the stories told by the locals of a Sumatran Island regarding the Orang Pendek. Even though, the first recorded sightings of Orang Pendek in Sumatra dates back to 1295, it took a few hundred years for the scientific community to start acknowledging that there might be an undiscovered animal in the islands of Sumatra.
Ms Debbie Martyr, former editor of a south London newspaper, has already spent two years in search of orang pendek - literally "short man". Her expedition is being carried out with the help of the Indonesian government. She is in awe of the beast and the task ahead of her. "The first time I saw it I was so shocked I didn't take a picture," she said. "I saw something I didn't expect to see and something so totally new contrary to what I expected. Here was a generally bi-pedal erect primate." Its colours correspond to those of the forest floor. "It's beige, tawny, rust red, yellow tan and dark chocolate brown. If he freezes, you can't see him."
Now this all seems very identical with the descriptions of the Bon Manchi that we came across.
Author’s note: I have added some more information and essays below on the Orang Pendek, Ebu gogo and Homo floresiensis. I am sure readers will find that enlightening and can help understand the quest for the Sikkim Bon Manchi better!

Ebu gogo to Bonmanchi: can there be a connection?
Reported from the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, the orang-pendek is described a red-furred bipedal ape-man about four feet tall. It is supposed to be attractive and graceful, and has been sighted by many natives. Westerners have seen this creature regularly since 1923, but numerous expeditions have failed to find anything better than footprints and hairs that don't test as any known creature. Some people think the orang-pendek is a new species of ground-dwelling bipedal orangutan, while others favor the idea of a very primitive human.
Recently, much more attention has been focused on legends of the orang-pendek because of the discovery of the Indonesian "hobbit" or Homo floresiensis on the nearby island of Flores in 2003. Homo floresiensis is an extremely small species of human that was known to have survived at least until 12,000 years ago, which means it likely co-existed on the island with modern homo sapiens. According to local legend, which names Homo floresiensis the ebu gogo, it survived until at least the year 1900, and may still be alive today. Some researchers think that the orang-pendek is the same species as the ebu gogo. The orang-pendek is often classified as a proto-pygmy, a type of smaller, more human-like hairy humanoid.
This renewed interest, coupled with the extremely remote area the orang-pendek is supposed to inhabit, has caused even mainstream scientists to label the orang-pendek as the hairy humanoid that is most likely to be a real creature. There had been very little investigation of the orang-pendek before 2003. Like many cryptids, it was categorized as a legend early on, without any professionally funded expeditions to see whether there might be any good reasons for the legends. It often happens that when a creature has been categorized as a myth for long enough, everyone just assumes a scientist must have done the work to properly disprove its existence at some point. Now we know that the earlier investigations were little more than folklore-collecting expeditions, generally self-funded, that nevertheless managed to bring back some circumstantial physical evidence that has proved genuinely puzzling to experts. Now that the spotlight has singled out this little cousin of Bigfoot, there is a chance that it might receive enough attention to settle the mystery once and for all.
Time to pay some attention to Bon Manchi

The days in the Kishong, Tholung and Tosa valleys were like opening new windows to our conviction and beliefs. The vastness of unknown ground humbled our pride. It was about time and we were already questioning the pre conceived notions that we have, that we carry in our heads. Is Bon Manchi just a wild imagination? But the recent studies and findings in Indonesia and even in North Pakistan; suggest otherwise.
May be some day soon a ‘hominid’, an ape, or a species like the Orang Pendek will be discovered in some less known Himalayan valley. After centuries of climbing and exploring across the Himalaya, vast majority of its glaciers, valleys, small river catchments are still unseen, unknown. It is true that no big mammal was discovered for a long time; but with the latest findings on the Orang Pendek; and the discovery of the Homo floresiensis in Indonesia, its time to rethink and reconsider our judgments may be. So its time to pay some serious scientific attention to the Bon Manchi; or may be not! Because we don’t want the Bon Manchi’s existence and survival threatened as a result of its discovery, like it happened with the mountain gorillas of Rwanda!

Team in Dzongu expeditions: Rabin Banerjee, Rajeev Ranjan, Subrata Bhattacharjee, Zamyong Lepcha and Sukhraj Gurung, Anindya Mukherjee

Team in Tosa expeditions: Raghav Mukherjee, Kevin Hynes, Thendup Sherpa, Phurtemba Sherpa, Tsering Lepcha, Anindya Mukherjee

Expedition area & period:
· Talung Valley, North Sikkim, India- March & April 2006
· Tosa lakes area, North Sikkim, India- Nov & Dec 2006 - January, 2007

For further query please contact: Anindya Mukherjee (Raja): anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

Website:
www.adventuremania.com
www.himalayaraja.co.in

Information on the Orang Pendek can be found at the following links:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/manchester/3734946.stm http://www.jambiexplorer.com/content/orangpendek.htm

after Shivling comes Diwali!

2008-10-25T16:48:00.001+05:30

After Shivling comes Diwali!!!

After a dull day, it's time to laugh!

After the meditation comes enlightenment!

After some hard work in the thin air it's time to celebrate!

When all our efforts had failed, it was surrender! A sad absent minded retreat! We did not want to do something utterly 'heroic' (to be read "stupid") on the overhang 'water ice' wall of the final serac barrier. Climbing that water ice at an altitude over 6140m seemed simply out of the equation. The avalanches ( in an average 3 per day) from the serac barrier, the 3 days of new powder snow, the knee deep old, slushy snow on the moraines of Meru glacier; we had faced them all and fought them well. We did fix rope all the way to the Serac Wall, to our Camp 3. But we were not strong enough to tackle the final barrier. Surely its features have changed from the last year's pictures that we had seen from past expeditions on Shivling!

When any of my expeditions fail to reach the summit, I tend to take the blame on me. I can't help but feel sorry in some way or other. This time also I feel the same.

But when I look back at my track record of accident-free expeditions, I feel re assured again. For God's sake, we don't want to lose any of my clients or any of my boys up there! It's simply not worth it! For me safety has always been ahead of summit, and so it shall be! Let that be the 'mantra' of Adventure Mania!

For that matter, I have seen excessive amount of carefulness among the Chamonix guides. They would not move an inch for summit, if they have a bad meteo! And the clients do listen to the guides. But we being born in the Indian soil don't yet have that air of authority over our clients. So we still have to try hard to make our clients understand their own safety (It's not always the case though, sometimes the clients are actually more reasonable and rational than I am!)

But I must confess that in comparison to the European guides', we take risks by leaps and bounds!

Now, back in the chaotic realities of my country, it's a challenge to get back home. It's a challenge just to get some train tickets for my crew, which will magically avoid the political strikes and terrors of my native land and take them home before Diwali!

Everybody wants to be home this Diwali, the festival of lights! Everybody wants to be near their loved ones and be in peace and love!

For once, for God's sake, can India come out of its mad, headless, nonstop anarchy?

Can't we all just live together and celebrate peace and harmony and be happy?

Just even once for a change?

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
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Expedition to Mount Shivling- West Ridge

2008-10-02T12:42:00.001+05:30

The "Iceland Garwal Expedition" to Mount Shivling (6543m)- West Ridge is now happening! The 5 memeber climbing team is now in Delhi. We as the Adventure Mania team are quite excited and proud to be an integral part of this Expedition. We will have a formal briefing at the IMF tomorrow and then we will start heading for the mountains on 4 October. It will take us 3 days of driving to reach Gangotri, and then another 2 days of trekking will bring us to the Base Camp, Tapovan.

With a bit of luck, sunshine and smooth ride through paperworks; we might be able to climb this mountain and come back down safe.

I will try to post one more update before we are off to the mountains...

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

pix from elbrus

2008-09-27T12:00:00.000+05:30

here is some pix from that day...

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Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

my elbrus story -1

2008-09-22T20:58:00.001+05:30

It was a cold wintry night. I was checking my emails in my Darjeeling flat. A new email from an unknown sender drew my attention. It was about a certain speed climbing up Mount Elbrus! How crazy and wild an idea! It fascinated me and challenged my dreams.

After Kilimanjaro in July 2005, Elbrus was always in my mind. I thought of Denali and Elbrus, not knowing to which mountain I would be able to go first. For Denali, I would certainly need a partner; but Elbrus I could climb on my own. Well thats what I thought and am glad now that I was right.

And so I replied that email. What followed was a series of email conversation with Yulia. Yulia Chunosova, an executive working for Top Sport Travel of St Petersberg. Together with Russianclimb.com they were organizing this race for the 4th consecutive time.

I read the history of Elbrus race and carefully considered the average time done by the former participants. I thought I could complete the race. Although in Himalaya, I dont reccommend climbing more than 600-800m a day; on occassions, I have climbed 1600m-1800m in day and in good time!

The idea of climbing Elbrus was already there, now I had a chance to make it unique by participating in a speed climb. But if I failed to complete and meet all the criterias of the race, I would be in trouble and a second attempt would be a near impossibility due to costs.

So, I had one and only one chance. I had to do it. Defeat was not acceptable!

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Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Elbrus SpeedClimb

2008-09-19T17:56:00.001+05:30

On September 16, I climbed Elbrus succesfully! It was a very cold and windy day. This strong wind made life hell after the saddle and till the summit. But I must say, that it felt very good to be on top the highest mountain of Europe.

Total participants of the race was 34. During the qulaifuication race on Sep15, some climbers were shortlisted. Total 22 climbers were finalists.Needless to say, I qulaified too.

I took 1 hour 57 mins and 57 secs to climb 1200m during the qulaification race. We were supposed to get a rest day after the qualification race. But due to bad weather forecast, the main race took place the very next day. This was not good for us, because we did not get any chance to recover at all. On the final day,I was one of the 13 climbers who were able to finish the speed climb. I took 6.30 hours to climb to the top. During the race we had to climb 1900m ( approximately 5800ft) non stop.

I am very glad that I was able to finish the race climb safely and succesfully without any training or idea of what a high altitude mountain race can be. I thankful to all my friends and would be sharing all the photos and information in details soon.

The participants of this race were from Germany, Indonesia, Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Bellarus and India.

In a few hours I am on my way to catch a train to Moscow and then will be back in Calcutta on September 24 morning.

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

elbrus

2008-09-14T11:16:00.001+05:30

Reached Baidayevo,a tiny village in the foothills of Elbrus. Lovely little place. In a few mintues we will be taken to the opening ceremony of the Elbrus Race and then to the barrels up the mountain. We will have a qulaification climb tomorrow. In the qualification race we have to climb 1200m and back down within 3 hours. Then we have a rest day. I plan to come down to the valley on that day and goback up the mountain again next day. The main competition will be held on Wednesday, if the weather holds.

I have been training,i.e, going up and down the mountain for last two days, so am feeling a bit tired today. have decided to rest in the barrel today, may be walk around a little bit.

Been struggling with Russian food sofar. Hope the barrel food will be better. Russian beer is light though and I have been exploring different brands for last 2 days as well!

I hope to finish the race in good time. Mountain racing, and over 5000m is not my cup of tea. But I think I am always ready for a new challenge and fun!

Hope to get back safe down the mountain after the race and write another update.

cheers!

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Moscow!

2008-09-10T14:00:00.001+05:30

I must say,it was a shock even for an Indian, to arrive in Moscow. In short the city is cruel and full of cold hearted people and it IS dangerous at night. So far I have survived. But I have a 30 hour long train ride coming up and I have already contracted a tummy bug! Still looking forward to Elbrus and hope that it will be nice. Hope to write in details about my time n Moscow when I get some time and cheaper internet access.

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Mt Blanc

2008-09-07T15:11:00.001+05:30

Back in Chamonix and the Sun is shining again! Not fair on me though! The 3 precious days I had for climbing Mt Blanc had been miserable, weatherwise. Stormy wind, snow, rain, bad visibility! Perfect!

But I was succesful to reach just below the summit ( around 4600m), alone and on my own. The wind was 100km/hour and it was not safe to climb on that exposed last section any more. I was quite happy with myself that I went this far and came down safe. All the guided parties turned around from the dome de Gouter and I was not crazy or stupid enough to carry on. I think I still have not lost that sense. The sense to know when one should turn back. I think I still havent forgotten my limit! May be thats what keeping me alive..still!

I think looking back climbing the grand couloir to the Gouter hut alone and miserable, has been the highlight in this trip to Mt Blanc. I learnt to be more composed ( at least while climbing) and patient.

I hope to write in detail and put some pix when I get back to India. But now I must get myself mentally prepared for the next part of my adventure.

Russia! Elbrus!!!

Tomorrow I have long journey to Frankfurt and then fly to Moscow.

I know theres a lot of adventure waiting.. a lot of learning too..

--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

chamonix

2008-09-02T20:29:00.001+05:30

Finally after travelling for two days by car and train from
Schmallenberg through Strasbourg and Lyon, reached chamonix this
afternoon. My travel plan is complicated this time as I dont have a
Swiss visa and so I have to detour a lot, and only stay within
Schengen countries.

Found a campsite just outside the village. Went to the mountain office
only to get some discouraging weather forecast. Its going to be bad
weather on Mt Blanc for next two days. So I am going to head off to
the mountain day aftertomorrow and hope that the next will be better.
I only have 4 days to spare here and it will be such a pity if weather
spoils all the fun for me. So far the plan is to climb Mt Blanc by the
Gouter Route. Its the normal route and one can stay in huts. And right
now it's probably the safest.
--
Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Jagdhaus-village of hunting lodge!

2008-08-28T16:32:00.001+05:30

Apart from the small bottles of French Red wine, the flights were uneventful! kolkata to Dubai and then to Frankfurt. My friends Hilde and Konni were there to pick me up. And then a 2 hour long drive to this small and beautiful village called Jadghaus, Schmallenberg. What a contrast after the heat, dust, smoke, noise, litter, and crowd of my home town! Well, the chaos and stress can now stay behind. Its time for the little globe trotter in me to come out and play!

Now let me share what I found about this place:

Jagdhaus:

Literally meaning the Hunting House or Lodge, the village is about 8 km south of Schmallenberg in 650 m above sea level. Today, here we have almost 75 residents.

http://translate.google.co.in/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jagdhaus_(Schmallenberg)&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=4&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Djagdhaus,%2Bschmallenberg%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

:-)

Adventure Mania
www.adventuremania.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
t:+91 97487 61139
m:+91 92305 11139

Participants of Elbrus Race 2008- an interesting bunch!

2008-08-21T21:14:00.003+05:30

1. Dr Rasoumoff Ted (USA), 10/17/1967Mountaing Racing background: Trail races and runs on peaks up to 4,000 meters. Multisport ski/snowshoe/run/bike winter events. Won Silver State Marathon 2000 (altitude/trail factors)Mountaing Climbing background: Several 14,000 ft peaks in USA. Some requiring glacier skills.

2. Mr.Mukherjee Anindya (India), 06/19/1971Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: climbed beyond 7000m in Indian Himalaya, work as mountain guide

3.Mr Klim Yuri (Ukraine), 22.02.1985Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: Elbrus

4. Mr Sergey Surmonin (Russia, Moscow/Tbilisi) 02.03.68 Sergey Surmonin is a skier and marathon runner, who participated in 100 km supermarathons. In 2001 he climbed Khan Tengri (7010 m), in 2002 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m), and a year later he participated in a very interesting ascension to the peak of Khan Tengri, where he took 5th place. In 2005 he climbed the peak of Evgeniya Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) and the peak of the Communism (7495 m), and in 2005 he climbed the peak of Evgeniya Korzhenevskaya at a glance without any preliminary acclimatization. In the mountains of Zailiysky Alatau (Kazakhstan) he became the prize winner in climbing to the peaks of Amangelda, Abay and Nursultan for many times. In July 2006 he took 2nd place in the speed climbing competition to the peak of Nursultan. He also took part in the expedition to Everest in 2006. In September 2006 took 4th place in Elbrus Race competitions in class "Extreme" with a result 6:22:38, in 2007 in class "Extreme" took 2d place with a result 6:14.
5. Mrs Surmonina Nadezhda (Georgia,Tbilisi)

6. Mrs NagovitsinaVera (Russia,St-Petersburg), 29/06/1958Mountaing Racing background: no Mountaing Climbing background: higher 3000 m

7. Mr. ARRASULI ZULFAHMI (INDONESIA),03/07/1978Mountaing Racing background: Mt.DEMPO,SOUTH SUMATRA,INDONESIA NATIONAL ORIENTEERING CHAMPIONSHIPMountaing Climbing background: CARSTENSZ PYRAMID,PAPUA 2005 and 2006

8. Mr. Jamaludin (INDONESIA), 01/12/1987Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: Raung Vertical Climbing 2007

9. Mr Aymaz Seyhan (Turkey), 08/26/1982Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: mount ararat5137mt, mount kaçkar big glacier 3932mt.,mount damavand 5671mt(iran), most of turkish mountains

10. Mr Zherlygin Boris (Russia, Moscow)Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: coach of mountain running

11. Mr Brylev Nikita (Russia), 16/01/86Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: Aibga ridge

12. Mr Mahin Dmitry (Ukrain), 16/09/68Mountaing Racing background: fan-)))))Mountaing Climbing background: 3 years working guide in Prielbrusie

13. Dr.Scheibehenne Gunther (Germany), 18.07.1948Mountaing Racing background: 53 MarathonsMountaing Climbing background: 4 Mountain Climbing Racings

14. Mr Muecke Martin (Germany), 13/11/1979Mountain Racing background: NoMountain Climbing background: several 4000m peaks in the alps, climbing attempt on Chan Tengri (7010m)

15. Mr Bullerjahn Robert (Germany), 06/06/1979Mountain Racing background: NoMountain Climbing background: has climbed some 3000m peaks in the Alps

16. Mr Dmitry Filippov (Russia, Magnitogorsk) 05.11.68 Mountain Racing background: Elbrus Race 2007, 4 place in "Classic"Mountain Climbing background: 2004,2005 — Ski Mountaineering Russia Championships (Khibins), result of 2005: Team Cup-4 place, Single Cup-6 place. December, 2006 — Ski Mountaineering Russian Cup (Magnitogorsk), result: Vertical Cup-3 place, Team Cup-3 place, Relay race Cup-2 place. March, 2007 — Ski Mountaineering European Championship (Morzine, France).

17. Mr Andrey Puchinin (Kazakhstan, Almaty), 06/08/1972 Mountain Racing background: Andrey Puchinin (Almaty) is a constant participant of speed climbing competitions in Kazakhstan. In 2000 he climbed the seven thousand meters high peak of Khan Tengri (7010 мm) for 12 hours (together with the descent it took 19 hours 02 minutes), and took 3rd place. In 2003 he took part in Khan Tengri speed climbing up to 6800 m and took 2nd place. In July 2006 he became the winner in the speed climbing competition to the peak of Nursultan. Winner of Elbrus Race 2006 in «Classic».

18. Mr Kolyshev Sergey (Russia, Zhukovskiy), 06.09.1958Mountain Racing background: Elbrus 2008 MayMountain Climbing background:

19. Mr Polovinkin Nikolay (Russia, Bronnitzy), 02.06.1957Mountain Racing background: 50 run marathons, 50 ski marathons, speed climb Mt Belukha 2008 Mountain Climbing background: Elbrus, Altay

20. Mr Dobrolet Mikhail (Belarus, Soligorsk), 27.07.1965Mountain Racing background: noMountain Climbing background: Elbrus East summit-2003, Elbrus West sumit - 2005,2007

21. Mr.Nugraha Enos ( Indonesia), january/18/1987Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: high than 3000 m

22. Mr. Wahyudi Ade (Indonesia), 05/22/1986Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: Carstensz Pyramid 2008, higher than 3000 m mount in Indonesia

23. Mr. Achmad Fandhi (Indonesia), 09/27/1983Mountaing Racing background: noMountaing Climbing background: Carstensz Pyramid 2005,2006, and 2008, higher than 3000 m mountin Indonesia

Count down to Elbrus Race!

2008-08-19T12:28:00.003+05:30

Yesterday, coming out of the Russian Embassy in Kolkata, I realized, it's now getting real. With only one week to leave the country and less then a month for the race, the count down has begun! All the elements, all the last minute work, commitments, organization for the trips and work ahead has to be done now!The Shivling Expedition and Singalila Ridge trek in October, followed by the North Sikkim trek in November with my friend Haukur has got be arranged now. The flights, hotels, helicopters, train tickets for staff, and paper works! Its fun though and amazing to find out that it all works out in the end, with some tense moments of course! Because we live in country that believe in red tapism and paperworks religiousy. And all your plans can abruptly come to an end due to a political strike!

As for the race on Elbrus, it's something totally new for me. It's true that I work in high altitude and altitude itself is not a problem for me. Elbrus with it's altitude of 5642m should not pose any altitude related problem apparently. But when one has to climb (or should I say 'Race') to 5642m from 3700m within a time span of 6 to 8 hours; its a different equation altogether. So far the Elbrus Race 2008 has 20 participants.

Chances of getting AMS is extremely high...with only 2 nights in hand for acclimatization on elbrus, things going to be interesting. So far have not been able to train at all for this. But hoping to spend some good training days in the Alps, before I fly into Russia from Germany.

But here's how I am looking at the whole thing, it's going to be a new experience for me and I am going to learn a lot from it and in the end will be climbing Elbrus any way, the highest peak in Europe, thus it will be my second summit (after Kilimanjaro in 2005) of the 7 summits! I have got nothing to lose at all!

cheers!

Panpatia Blog!

2008-08-13T04:39:00.002+05:30

Observing the growing interest in Panpatia Glacier I have created a blog, a webspace, where I will try to post and publish all the news, views and reviews that is related to this area. Panpatia has a huge potential still for exploration, be it climbing or trekking! There is still a lot to be done on the Vishnu Garh Ridge. The main summit of Parbati Parbat (6257m) still remain unclimbed! And countless 5000m peaks to be scaled! Connecting this Glacier with adjacent Satopanh Glacier or the Gondherpongi Valley also might offer great challenges! So if you have something to share regarding this fantastic area, please email me at: anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

And here is the link to Panpatia:

http://panpatia.blogspot.com

cheers!

Explore- Forum

2008-08-04T19:36:00.004+05:30

If you have a passion for travel or exploring the hidden Himalaya, this is your forum to share your dreams & plans or experiences. Its brand new and basic and I hope to moderate it whenever I am free and have access to the net. :-)
http://www.orkut.co.in/Community.aspx?cmm=53570246

If you are planning a trek or expedition in the Indian Himalaya, and if you have some queries, you can post here.

Reports on the Irish Panpatia Expedition May 2008

2008-08-02T13:33:00.004+05:30

"It's the most exciting thing I have done. For anyone to climb and unclimbed peak is very good. "Most of the highest peaks in the world are all over 8,000 metres. They would include the likes of Everest and they have all been climbed on numerous occasions. Also, most of the 7,000 metre peaks have been climbed but there are literally thousands of unclimbed peaks between 5,000 and 6,000 metres. They are technically difficult to climb and for anyone to do this is simply fantastic. .." Alan Tees

Read the whole story here as the Sunday Journal and other Irish media reported:
http://www.sundayjournal.ie/features/Peak-to-Peak.4205167.jp
http://www.inishowennews.com/08CuldaffHimalayas.htm

Brief Expedition Report:
http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/log_details.php?i=362

Me and my team of Adventure Mania (http://www.adventuremania.com/) were proud to be able to support this exploration climbing programme.

Elbrus Race 2008!

2008-08-02T12:57:00.003+05:30

Speed Climbing to Elbrus, 5642 m will be held on September, 17, 2008

Elbrus, the highest peak of Russia and Europe, is a well-known peak of the Caucasus. Its white-snow double-headed peak is beautiful not only as a geographical object, but also as a symbol of the high achievements, grand size, crystal pureness and triumph of its conquerors. Elbrus is located in 12 km from the Main Caucasus Ridge. A high-quality road enables you to get to the foot of the mountain from Mineralnyje Vody Airport, Pjatogorsk and the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik. The regular shape of the volcanic cone and slopes, which are covered with glaciers over 300m high, form a sort of a mountain stadium.

The speed climbing path follows the classical route: Azau clearing – Bochki – Pastukhov’s Rocks – Sedlo – Western Elbrus. During the high days of the Soviet climbing school, the alumnae of which still get the world astonished by their high results in climbing, Elbrus speed climbing competitions were held very frequently and were the elimination competitions for those who wanted to take part in serious expeditions to the Himalayas. In the post-Soviet era Elbrus is visited by a great number of groups of climbers and tourists, both independent and supervised by professional guides, but its opportunities as a mountain for serious sports events are used insufficiently. Meanwhile, in the rest of the world the highlands become more and more popular as a place for speed climbing, but with the routes with smaller altitude change, and thousands of sportsmen take part in the competitions (for example, climbing to Mont blanc, , Mount Rainer, Jungfrau etc.).

In September 2005 TOP SPORT TRAVEL and Information Server for Climbers WWW.RUSSIANCLIMB.COM decided to revive the tradition, which existed before the 90s, Elbrus speed climbing competitions. The pilot event was successfully held on September, 15 2005. Now these competitions are held annually.

The competitions are purposely held in September. According to the multi-year statistics, the weather at that time in Elbrus Region is good and steady, and there should be no be no extensive ice section on the route.

For the majority of people a simple climbing to Elbrus by a classical route is a dream, which is not so easy to come true, because in order to climb this not easy and sometimes severe peak, besides for a good physical training one should acquire strong mountaineering skills. The competition among the strongest sportsmen in the high mountains, fight for the fastest covering the route from the foot of the mountain – Azau clearing (2400 m) – Western Peak (5642 m) is unique and challenging, because nobody in Europe arranges speed climbing competitions with the altitude drop for more than 3000 m. Such fighting will become a great challenge for the participants, as a usual climbing to the peak from Bochki hut, located at 3700m in average takes 7-8 hours, so the competitors have to cover the route from the foot to the peak practically running.

History of Speed Climbing on Elbrus
In the Soviet period speed ascent competitions on Elbrus slopes — from Mir station till Garabashi station and from Priut 11 till the col — were the part of training program for the members of the soviet Himalaya expeditions (1982, 1989). Elbrus was well-known for all seriuos Soviet mountaineers, as the mount's location is very comfortable and its height is enough for the race. It was considered to be a prestigious action — to take part in these races, and the strongest USSR climbers had competed there.

Now the Mount is the object of the International program «7 Summits» (climbing the highest tops of all continents). Elbrus is especially lucky nowdays — in spite it is the part of Caucasus, one can reach its bottom without special frontier guard's permit, the way along Baksan valley is comfortable and safe. Hotels in Terskol, Bochki huts, Priut 11 and the new modern hut some meters higher than Priut — do Elbrus climbs more and more comfortable, and from day to day a lot of groups go to their dream — Elbrus tops. But, exept some events — all of these climbs are of «tourist class». But 15-20 years ago those slopes were the place for serious mountaineers ambitions battles!

Vladimir Balyberdin was the first who had understood the annual Elbrus speed climb Championship perspectives. In 1987 he organized there the first Fall Elbrus Race — from Priut 11 till the col. September was not the occasional choose – it is the best season here. There is no ice on the route usually in September, and the whole way to the tops is more safe than in other seasons. Next races were in 1988 and 1989. Anatoly Boukreev is a legend of that Races — he won in 1990 — and his result was 1 hour 47 min (Priut 11 — East top).

They live in close proximity!

2008-08-02T10:53:00.004+05:30

Sounds unbelievable, but it's true! Even after the categorical concrete death of our nature, here in the suburbs of Kolkata, some wild life survives.

I live in Bally, a small town in the district of Howrah. When we were growing up in the 70's this area used to be full of ponds and trees. Unfortunately it's not like that anymore. They have built multi-storied buildings at the cost of filling up all the water bodies and lush green fields. Many of the birds that we used to see when we were young, don't come here any more.

But recently, me and Chhotu were thrilled to see Indian Civets in our neighbourhood. Talking to our neighbours, we learnt that they have found a deserted house and made it their den.

We just got curious about this animal and wondered how it could survive our rapid and mindless urbanization!

here is link to the Common Indian Palm Civet:

http://www.lioncrusher.com/animal.asp?animal=109

Surprise Surprise!!!

2008-07-31T21:07:00.004+05:30

"How many roads must a man walk down, before we call him a man..."-Bob Dylan

I can't help but say today 'how many times must an Indian be reminded, that he is born in a third world country...???'

A visit to the Consulate General of Russia today was such a shock!

First an Indian citizen can not travel independently in Russia, he or she has to book through a tour company based in Russia.
This makes the whole proposition much more expensive of course
you only get visa for the number of days mentioned by the Russian Company who is supposed to send you an invitation letter and hotel voucher!

So much for my plans of backpacking in Russia~

'The Financially Feasible Five'

2008-07-31T20:22:00.001+05:30

Not so long back, I used to dream of climbing the highest mountains of all the seven continents on earth...'the seven summits'. But it did not take me long to realize that, getting the fund is always much more difficult than actually climbing any of the seven!

Back in 2004, my good friend Haukur Parelius of Iceland (www.mountainfriends.com) made a very interesting comment. Back then, he had already climbed 5 out of the 7 and he called them the ' Financially Feasible Five'! Take Everest and Vinsson Massif out of the dream project, and it becomes a lot more feasible indeed! He did inspire me that day and even to this day, I have not given up my dream.

But, let's accept the fact that, for an average Indian citizen, it still is very 'financially challenging proposition'!

But I have always welcomed challenges in my life, I think they are fun anyway. I don't have to do a speed record. I can take my whole life to reach the summits of these 'famous five' and thats exactly what I am going to do!

In 2005, I hiked up Kilimanjaro. It was a great experience indeed! Now this year, in 2008, I am all set to hike up Mt Elbrus. But this will not be just a tourist visit for me, because I have commited myself to yet another crazy thing; I will be taking part in speed climbing race!!! Blimey!

Atleast, If I get AMS, I won't have to blame any one else, but me!

For more info on this unique and crazy race you can log on to: www.elbrusspeedclimb.com

2008: Year of the Magic Panda

2008-07-28T22:21:00.004+05:30

A tranquil January morning.I was trying to meditate on top of a hill near Tonglu. Tonglu is on the Singalila Ridge and over 3000m above sea level. Considering January, it was quite nice and warm that morning and I could see the sun rise over the ridges of Tiger Hill. I dont remember how long I sat there..but soon I heard something close by. As I leaned forward to locate the source of the noise; I saw a red panda! For the very first time I saw a red panda in the wild, and from so close proximity! When I came down to Tumling and shared the incident, every one exclaimed on how lucky I was! Alice had said," may be that was a magic panda!"

Well, magic panda or not, this year so far has been harsh, hectic and humbling for me. I have led 2 treks on the Singalila Ridge, led a climb on Mt kalanag in West Garwal, led an exploration climbing in Panpatia glacier, took a group over Rupin Pass in Himachal Pradesh. I have started building a guest house in a remote North Sikkim village and also hope to keep my Porter Shelter and Medical Post in Bhujbas to move forward!

Lot of hard work, lot of commitment, and no short supply of dreams!

More than half of 2008 now behind, and dreams, at least some of them are now a bit challenged! I am not confident to say ' that one should follow his/her heart' anymore. I am hurt, injured. But not crippled! A fire in the North Sikkim village destroyed all the logs and bamboo I bought for the construction of the huts! And some one who brought a lot of colour and music in my life is not there for me anymore!

But here I am, still standing! :-)

Right now I am getting prepared for a trip to Germany and then on to Russia. I am participating in a speed climbing competition on Mt Elbrus. Interesting and very challenging proposition indeed!

But I neither have the experience, nor I am able to train myself properly for that competition. Still am hoping to find some sponsorship, so that I dont have blow away all my savings...again!

North Sikkim Adventures

2008-07-25T22:52:00.000+05:30

Short Explorations & Unlimited Adventures in North Sikkim

The Burtuk Detox

I first met Rajeev Ranjan in the crowded humid platform of Sealdah. For the past few months, we had known each other through emails. But now that he is actually there, waiting to board the Darjeeling Mail, it was finally happening. We were off to North Sikkim. For yet another adventure of the unknown. An exploration trek was ahead of us in the uncharted catchments of the upper Ringi Chu valley. In to a great valley guarded by the Eastern flanks of a so called beauty- Siniolchu and Lama Angden, the mountain in meditation. But now, at that very moment, all I wanted was a good night’s sleep. The thrill and excitement of exploration can wait! I felt exactly that way. Because mountains and adventure are part of my job and I do deserve my day’s rest. Don’t I?

This happens to me all the time. For months ahead any scheduled adventure trip, I have email contacts with potential clients. Gradually these emails add up to a conversation and I start anticipating. Generally by the tune of their mails, the way any person frame a sentence; you can sort of build up a sketch of that person at other end of those emails. This is very important because, I will be spending days and nights with this unknown guy; trying to help him achieve his dream adventure. And what is may be a perfect adventure holiday for him, is a normal business activity for me.

But? Wait a minute! The point that I am trying to make here is not that I am a macho guy who a really has a cool profession! My point is…hey...this can also be a profession, a decent way to earn one’s daily bread! But of course, my intention is to inspire; not to push my readers in to boredom. So here comes the story…

That very night, somehow I did not have a relaxing sleep. Not even a short nap. Spending a whole night, in a noisy sleeper coach, with others blissfully snoring around you, isn’t easy! Specially, if the following day’s drive to Burtuk turns out to be an equally torturous 5 hours; does not make your life exactly comfortable either! Well, so far my life and business does not seem to be very cool, right? Wrong!

Everything started to cool down from that evening in Burtuk. After a few bouts of Tyongba, everything started to fall in to places. I could see clearly now. I could think straight and I could plan of the job ahead. This is what I call detoxification. Detoxification of one’s soul from the poisons of our mundane life. It was not just the drink, you see, it’s the fresh mountain air, the thought that I will be able to stay away from the social toxins for the next couple of weeks, had their synergistic effect on me. And I was ready!

The Next Step

The next step was a drive. A drive to Mangan, the district head quarters of North Sikkim. 3 hours on dusty, bumpy road, and we were in Mangan bazaar. The area where we were venturing in to is locally known as Dzongu. And to enter we needed a special permit. A few hours passed, and we had that invaluable piece of paper called the “Permit”! We were all relieved as without that piece of paper our adventure could very well end in Mangan bazaar. Sharing our joy of relief was Zamyong Lepcha. Zamyong and old friend is the son of Bhutia Tsering Lepcha. B.T. Lepcha is the head master of Lingzya village, our road head for the trek up Ringi Chu Valley.

Some shopping in the Mangan bazaar and were off in Zamyong’s jeep towards Lingzya village.25 kms took 1 hour. It was like returning home. The warmth in our host’s hearts reflected in their hospitality. Next morning after a hearty breakfast, we were ready to take on 20 km uphill track up to Tholung Gompa. Long, sweaty day. Starting from less than msl 4000ft. at the end of the day we were at 8160ft. 7 hours later we left Lingzya we reached the ancient monastery of Tholung. Had a very interesting afternoon spent with the Head Lama; popularly called as “Myong Thiung”. In Lepcha language Myong Thiung means the ‘Old Man of the Village’. Myong Thiung is actually a very high priest in the Gyelukpa sect in Sikkim.

Sips of ‘Chhang’ and stories dating back decades added enough mystery and charm in our adventure ahead. At night, before hitting the sack, I was lost in thought. I thought and wondered about the Valley we were about to explore.

The Plan Divine

Talung - the name itself is fascinating. It brings an air of the unknown. The mystery; the thrill; the magnetism; the challenge of the unknown. Perhaps that’s why we were there. The Zumthul Phuk Glacier, which only exists on a map. Kishong la, a rarely visited high mountain pass! Tholung Gompa- an eighteenth century Buddhist Monastery where ancient relics of Guru Rimpoche is protected along with a mummy of a dead King! Of Lama Angden, the mountain that crowns the head of the valley overlooks the pristine Kishong Lake, in meditation for ever. Everything seemed like parts of a divine plan! Next morning, the sky was clear. We trekked thorough real dense greenery. The jungle became more and more awe inspiring. It seemed as if it kept so many secrets from us. We the tiny dots soon became refreshing blood suppliers to the thousands of leeches. Tell you what; these blood thirsty creatures did not fit in my divine plan at all! No way!

After 4 and ½ hours we reached Temrong and soon we crossed a log bridge on Zumthul Chu and found our nights shelter in a Yak Hut. Soon we had a fire going and to our extreme relief, no more leech! Thank God!

Zumthul Phuk: Of Guts and Glory

Back in Tholung Gompa, we had heard about a barrier, a big black rock wall that guards all possible entrances to the unknown Zumthul Phuk valley. The story of this “Wall” had dampened some of our spirits, but we did not give Zumthul Phuk an walk over as yet. Because, from the maps we knew, that a big glacier exists at the head of this roaring Zumthul Chu and that glacier is born from the SE flanks of Siniolchu. No human being, including the Lepcha hunters of Dzongu has ever dared in to this valley! That evening Zamyong’s uncle joined us and strengthened our small team.

Next morning, we prepared ourselves with food and gear and entered the virgin forests of Zumthul Phuk. The basic idea of navigation was to stay close to the river course and go upstream. Simple it may sound; but it turned out to be an extremely dangerous and difficult affair! We crossed 19 streams as we forced our way up the true left of Zumthul Chu. We traversed numerous rock bands. Moist, damp rock bands, some of them were exposing us strait down hundreds of feet to the mighty river. And then we faced the ‘barrier’. With the very first glance at the rock wall we could chalk out a route. And we climbed that blasted rock with great zeal. The monster of the ‘barrier’ seemed to be kind to us. We peeled off thick layers of moss from the rock surface and found our foot and hand holds. It was interesting! May be that was an under statement. Doing a free climb in an uncharted territory is definitely more than just ‘interesting’!

For eight long hours we forced our way upstream. Sometimes tackling the wet slabs, sometimes hanging shakily from the rhododendron branches and finally building a log bridge over Zumthul Chu; we managed to reach a point from where we could see the peaks of Zumthul Phuk. I took bearings and could spot ourselves on the map. Standing on top of a big boulder on the true right bank of Zumthul Chu; we could see that how close to the snout of Zumthul Phuk we were. I took some snaps in steadily deteriorating weather and visibility. One of the members had a nasty fall and a miraculous escape from getting blown away by the cascading river. Another 5 hours, and we were back in the Yak hut. A long day indeed!

What we discovered from our short adventure in Zumthul Phuk is precious! A glacier is out there, waiting for explorers and climbers to play for the very first time. The climbers or explorers whosoever they are; will of course need a load of guts to reach the glacier. And then only they can expect glory! Because all the peaks are awaiting their first ascents.

Darkness came. With it came peace. As if our aspirations also needed a bed to crash. But a creature came very close to our shelter and was curious about us inside. Next morning from its droppings we could figure that it was a Himalayan Black Bear! We were glad that the bear did not decide to explore our shaky shelter! We felt like trespassers in their sanctuary. It was time to move toward our next destination- Kishong La.

Kishong La: The Pass of Demons and Demigods

Rain, rain, and more rain. The time we had chosen, may be was not just right! But who the hell cares; especially when you are drenched to the bones. We pushed ahead, ignoring the continuous shower. No matter what, we will give it a go! And that was it. The trail conditions worsened. Uphill all the way for 2 hours and reached small meadow called Labyok (11000ft) - an abandoned Yak Hut. Another hour of uphill struggle and we were in Thijom. Lower portions of the Dawathang Valley and a glimpse of Ringi Lama were visible. Thijom is around 12000ft. We looked beyond and a big rock wall guarded our view. It reminded me of the Great Baranco Wall of Kilimanjaro. Our route lay ahead up that giant wall. But as we approached the wall, a narrow, serpent trail appeared. Surprisingly, it turned out to be a nice walk up the wall. A steady gain of 1500 ft and we reached the alpine meadows of Thalakpe (13600ft). A night was spent in the log hut of Thalakpe. To the locals it is also known as the Kishong Hut. It was nice to be in dry clothes and enjoy a nice warm dinner by the fire.

Our senses became wide awake next morning; as we waded knee-deep icy stream of the Kishong Chu. A great green wide alp was ahead of us. An hour later we reached the camping grounds of Dikithang. We pitched our small 2 person tents beside the Yak herdsmen’s rather big camp.

Next morning, we headed for Kishong La. The higher we climbed; the weather worsened. The word ‘visibility’ sounded like a big fat joke! No point exploring, right? Wrong! We decided to move on. It was difficult to stick to the right path; especially when there isn’t any! But we managed to stay on course and after 4 hours of confusion and determination, reached Kishong La (15600ft).The cairns on the top, a gentle slope rising towards Lama Angden and the Northern slopes rolling down to the Zemu Chu valley. I took some useless foggy snapshots. My friend Zamyong was more than happy to be able to reach Kishong La. From this day I declare you ‘guide’; I joked. Zamyong was a proud Lepcha! He can now boast about in Mangan bazaar for the rest of his life and may be get free booze!

It was time to retrace our steps back to Dikithang camp. My tired, wet pair of legs brought me back to my tent. Soon we were all together, circling around the shepherd’s fire; sipping strong black coffee. The valley wind had risen considerably. We could hear it howling over our rolling laughter. The Shepherd’s wife said, the mountain spirits are not happy, as you humans have ventured in to the sanctum sanctorum of their temple!

A visit to the Yeti Pass

Tell you what; I do not buy that kind of crap any more! Do you think I should? But the next statement coming from her was not that easy to ignore! There’s another mountain pass here. It’s called Mige La, very close to this Yak shed even. Migou (also spelled Migoo sometimes) –s used to whistle from that pass overlooking this yak shed; that’s why we shepherds have named it Mige La (‘La’ means a mountain pass in Bhotia/ Tibetan language). And there was not a shadow of doubt or hesitation in her words when she spoke of the Migou. All the others present in the yak shed nodded to their approval. Yeti, or Migou or the Banmanchi exists; there was no denying the fact.

Now I just learnt a couple of new things from the Shepherd’s wife. One, there exists a mountain pass in the Himalaya named after the famed Migou or Yeti. Two, Yeti’s call is like a whistling note. It may look abominable (!); but it does have a big foot!

So, next morning there I was climbing towards Mige La. Not that I was expecting to make a sudden discovery; the thought of venturing to an uncharted mountain pass was exciting enough for me. It took us two hours to reach Mige La. At an altitude of 4600m, it was snow clad in April. There we found very old cairns on top of the pass, built by the yak herdsmen. Old pile of small boulders and rocks. Old, but prominent. Visibility was as poor as it could be! In spite of that I took some pictures with the cairn and my companions Zamyong and Sukhraj. On the way down Sukhraj pointed towards a strange impression on the snow. It was not big. I thought it might be of a snow leopard, or even a bear. But my companions were quite familiar with leopard or bear pugmarks. They insisted it belonged to none other than the Migou! Well, I still don’t know what it was. But at that moment it felt nice to believe in their words. May be we can come back later with a scientific expedition to this area and find out. But on the way back to my tent, I realized that I have started to believe in the stories of the Shepherd’s wife.

May be some day soon a ‘hominid’, an ape, or a species like the Orang Pendek will be discovered in some less known Himalayan valley. After centuries of climbing and exploring across the Himalaya, vast majority of its glaciers, valleys, small river catchments are still unseen, unknown. It was true that no big mammal was discovered for a long time; but with the finding of Orang Pendek; its time to rethink may be.

Team: Anindya Mukherjee, Subrata Bhattacharjee, Rajeev Ranjan, Rabin Banerjee, Zamyong Lepcha and Sukhraj Gurung. Text: Anindya Mukherjee

Period: March- April 2006
Area: Talung Valley, North Sikkim, India

Information on the Orang Pendek can be found at the following links:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/manchester/3734946.stm
http://www.jambiexplorer.com/content/orangpendek.htm

Ascent of Mount Manirang

2008-07-25T22:42:00.002+05:30

Manirang: The Jewel Within

Success brings satisfaction to some but for some it is an appetizer! An appetizer for more adventure! We were a group of 12 from a mountaineering club “Summiters”.

After our success in Dharamsura (2004) and Mana NW (2005), our climbers were looking for another mountaineering challenge. The first Indian civilian ascent achieved on Dharamsura in 2004 was followed by a altogether different exploratory climb in Mana NW in 2005.The ecstasy experienced on top of Dharamsura was tested harshly on Mana NW. But we succeeded nevertheless. And as success brings confidence and positive motivation; there we were planning to climb Mount Manirang (6593m), the highest mountain in the Western Catchments of Spiti-Sutlej, Himachal Pradesh in 2006.

Looking Back: Attempts and Ascents

As we browsed through old magazines and mountaineering journals, we came across several accounts of attempts and ascents on Mount Manirang over the past 5 decades. In 1952, the mountain was first climbed by a party led by Dr. J.de.V.Graff. In 1986, Arun Samant and M.H.Contractor approached from Ropa valley and climbed peak 5888 (also called Manirang South). In 1988(May-June), a team led by Ashwin Jogelkar attempted the mountain. The expedition suffered terrible weather conditions; but they managed to reach up to 6200m. Later in the same year of 1988(July), A Paratroopers Expedition led by Lt Col B.S.Sandhu climbed Manirang by its SW ridge. In July, 1994, the mountain was climbed again by its SW ridge by Paul Nunn and D.Muni.

In July, 2006, when we decided to go for this prized peak, we were eager to do a new route on the mountain. The idea of climbing by the South Ridge roused our interest. Climbing Manirang by its South ridge for the very first time seemed a worthy challenge. But we always wondered about the conditions of the final rock pyramid of 200m waiting at the top. All the previous accounts lacked pictures and/or description of the summit rock pyramid. By climbing SW ridge they could avoid the rock pyramid partly. But our route by the South Ridge will lead us straight to its foot! We were ready and so was the mountain!

To Kaza from Kolkata

July 1, 2006.The train ride to Chandigarh was not pleasant. The horrible heat was killing us. But soon as we drove the winding roads up the mountains; our agonies eased with lush greenery and cool comfort. July 3, 2006, after a long and tiring drive we reached Manali. The following day was a busy day for all the 11 team members. It was day for procuring expedition ration, hiring some climbing gears and so many last minute odd jobs like packing and repacking! We also hired Kishore Gurung, our kitchen helper for this Expedition. July 5, 2006, another long bus ride across Rohtang La and Kunzom La brought us to Kaza.

Kaza to Base Camp

Next morning we drove to the village Mane (3500m). We were greeted by the villagers with the expression “Juley!” This reminded us of the influence of Tibetan language in the local dialect. We were welcomed to stay at one of the village houses and our host was a real gentleman. With great help from our host we managed to hire 10 donkeys to drop our loads in Sopana (4580m).Enriched by information gathered from the villagers we decided to establish our base camp in Sopana, instead of Yong Lake (4100m).On July 7, 2006, we started trekking towards Yong Lake and made a Transit Camp there. It was a glorious afternoon in Transit Camp. We had a grand view of our mountain Manirang with Yong Lake in the fore ground. July 8, 2006, we moved onwards and upwards and after a 4 hour hike we reached Sopana, our Base Camp at 4580m.

Toiling up to the Pass: Base to Camp 2

After two days of load ferries, on July 11, 2006, we could occupy Camp 1.The place is called Sojana by the locals and is at an altitude of 5150m.Next day we all carried heavy loads and we were on top of Manirang Pass (5580m).Camp 2 was established on Manirang Pass. A ferry to the Camp 3 (summit Camp) was made on the same day by our climbing Sherpas.

July 12, 2006, Rabin, Arupam, Anindya (Raja), Aloke, Achintya, Amitava, Pasang, and Nima Sherpa settled themselves in a very windy Camp 2.The sunset was vibrantly colorful. All night long violent wind raged outside giving us an uneasy feeling even as we tried to sleep. Harish Kapadia had called Manirang “a mountain of surprises”. We wondered what surprise it had in store for us!

Manirang by the South Ridge

The route to camp 3 from the camp at Manirang Pass was a trudge up loose reddish scree. It looked all so different from what I have seen in the pictures taken by Arun Samant from Peak 5888m (Indian Mountaineer Number 18/Autumn 1986). Our mountain was devoid of any of the soft, modest snow covered exterior look. Instead it looked barren, naked and desolate. A typical Spiti feature indeed!

Within about an hour of uphill struggle from the Pass Camp (camp 2) we covered about 200m and reached a shelf where Pasang Phutar, our climbing Sherpa had dumped some food and gears the previous day. The place looked sheltered enough from the falling debris from the rock step above us; and we decided to pitch tents for our summit camp there. The Altimeter reading was 5736m.It was July 13, 2006.

We had a brilliant sunset from camp 3 that day. Great views of the Spiti river valley, peaks beyond Kaza towards NW. Shigri Parvat and other peaks of the Bara Shigri Glacier complex were dominating the Western Horizon. To our SW were Manirang Pass and Peak 5888 and other lesser peaks. To our South and SE were the Ropa Valley peaks. To our dismay and sometimes irritation the Ropa Valley always managed to cook up with bad weather for us for the following night and next couple of days.

The wind turned in to gale on the July 14.One of the two tents that we had managed to pitch the earlier day; had given up. Its occupants had a sleepless night holding on to the frail fibre poles that gave away to Ropa Valley wind. They looked tortured, twisted and the tent had to be “retired hurt” (as they say in Cricket)!

A bit of strategy meeting was done and a new tent was brought up from the Pass Camp later that afternoon. But it was a smaller 2 person tent. As a consequence Achintya and Aloke had to sacrifice their summit attempt. Lack of space, the acute problem in the metro cities prevailed in this high altitude and dictated win over our plans. Achintya and Aloke went down to the Pass Camp, and moved further down to Camp 1 along with Rabin the same day.

However, this new tent survived the trying winds of Ropa and so did our chances of summiting Mount Manirang!

A bid for the summit had yet to be abandoned on July 15 as the wind was getting ever stronger. We had to be patient in order to have a calmer summit day.

July 16, 2006. We woke up to a cold, but calm morning. It was now or never! We all got dressed and started for the summit at 6.30 A.M. Pasang, Nima, Arupam, Amitava and Anindya (Raja); all five of us silently pressed along the initial scree slope and soon hit the first rock step.

The Wet Rock Step

The first impression of the rock step was its dampness. And soon it revealed its dangerously exfoliating character. Loose, shooting stones and pebbles soon complicated the uphill affair. The dodgy verglass section of the rock step was avoidable though.90 long minutes later we were on the crest of the damp, brittle rock step. The first glimpse of snow on ice was welcome! We were glad to strap on our crampons.

The Ice Field

The snow and ice slope was in perfect condition for a comfortable crampon movement upwards. Though Pasang had fixed some ropes on some exposed sections of this Ice field; it was not yet necessary to clip our jumars on to the relative safety of the rope. We moved confidently upwards towards our right and gradually gained the South ridge of Manirang. The horizon to the East opened up and we had the first glimpse of the mountain ranges stretching far and beyond. We could identify Leo Pargial (6791m) distinctly.

The summit pyramid looked very close. “It should not take us more than 5 hours to reach the top”, we thought. The rock structure that formed the summit of Manirang did not agree with us though! 3 hours passed and we were still not able to reach the foot of the rock pyramid! Looks can really be deceptive! The edge of the South ridge posed a big cornice towards Ropa. We traversed a bit toward our left, more to centre of the slope.

11 A.M. we were now looking straight up at the rock pyramid from its foot. We crossed three crevasses and then up the final ice chute. Ceaseless panting and front pointing brought us to the world of treacherous wet rocks again. Only this time this is the summit pyramid. Altimeter read 6450m.Which meant we still had almost 200m of rotten rock tower to overcome and come back in one piece!

The final struggle: the tower of torment

Climbing the rotten rocks soon became struggle. The tricky verglass, the sudden gasp for air, the canon-balling rocks all became our foes. We felt naked and helpless sometimes without a climbing helmet! (Yes, we were climbing without helmets. Not because we could not afford them; but because we underestimated the mountain!)

But we managed to overcome our worst nightmares and continued upwards. Then we noticed traces of a manila rope; weathered and torn under cracks and corners of the rock tower. So…we are not the first to go through this tower of torment! The manila rope looked really old. It must have been left by the 1952 South African Expedition.

3.30P.M. we reached the top of the rock tower feeling knackered but satisfied having made the much coveted summit of Manirang. Clouds crowded the horizon, mist hugged us. We still could see some of the mountains though. Looking North over the Lingti valley from right to left we could see Gya (6794m) peeping over Gyagar (6400m) in the foreground. A bit to the left we could see CCKN (6380m) and Shilla (6132m) range. To our NW spread the great river valley of Spiti and the green fields of Kaza were unmistakable. Further WNW was the Shigri Parvat and other peaks of the Kullu-Spiti divide; peaks above Parahio Nala and Pin Valley. The South ridge descended towards Manirang la. Peak 5888 and other lesser peaks seemed insignificant but in perfect harmony with the surroundings. To the East were so many peaks; Leo Pargial and Reo Pargial being the most distinctive of them.

We offered Puja to Manirang summit and decided to retrace our steps down almost 3000ft of fixed rope. While going up we had to fix some of our dynamic ropes along with static ropes that we had carried up. We removed and kept recovering the climbing ropes from the mountain. Another 4 hours of patient agony and we were back in Camp 3.

The Journey Back Home

Returning Base Camp we learnt that on our summit day (July 16, 2006) Subrata and Manas had came up to Manirang Pass from Camp1 and had spotted us climbing down the South Ridge. July 18, 2006, we brought down the loads left in camp 1. All the loads were rearranged at Base. Next morning, donkeys arrived from Mane. By afternoon the whole team was down in Mane village. July, 20, 2006, we reached Kaza. A relaxed afternoon and a gala dinner followed. Spending the next two days at Manali, we boarded the train to Kolkata from Kalka on July 23, 2006 and were back in the heat and dust of our city on the morning of July 25. Monsoon rains welcomed us. Not a very nice way to welcome you home though!

Days in quest for Panpatia Col

2008-07-25T22:34:00.000+05:30

Looking back

I have always had a habit of reading old mountaineering journals and magazines. I was fortunate to have Sujal Mukherjee as my uncle that way ; as he had this wonderful collection of mountaineering journals, magazines and books. In 1994, after my uncle passed away, I started to work on the book based on the diaries he kept during his early days of trekking and mountaineering in the Indian Himalaya. The book was later published as “Sujaler Diary”. It was an amateurish work from my part, I still think, but it helped me lot in knowing and understanding the early days of West Bengal mountaineering and explorations. And as time passed I grew more and more interest in exploration possibilities in Garwal Himalaya and one day stumbled upon an article ( rather a report) by Sri Manas Basu; describing his trekking from the village of Ransi in Madmaheswar Valley to the temple of Kedarnath, by crossing several high passes, spending 6 days. I got curious and found another article by Sri A.C.Mitter; only to discover that he had done the same route in less number of days, only in a reverse direction. Now that was fascinating! Two or less people exploring the endless ridges and glaciers of Garwal; that’s something I wanted to do. Wow!

At around the same time I was reading the epic book Kamet Conquered by Frank Smythe. And he mentioned early explorations by C.F.Meade and the rumours of existence of a high path connecting the shrines of Kedarnath and Badrinath. Meade had reached the head of the Bhagirath Kharak in search of the legendary trail, only to certify his route too dangerous for pilgrims without mountaineering skill and proper gear. However he was able to see the head of ( or rather the upper extreme reaches of the Gangotri glacier for the very first time) Gangotri glacier. Inspired by the attempts of Meade, the legendary duo Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman along with 3 Darjeeling shirpas, entered the Satopanth glacier and after crossing the col at the head of Satopanth glacier, descended to Gondherpongi valley. They could force their way through the gorge of Gondherpongi and had finally emerged at Gonder village in Madmaheswar valley. I then came across reports by Sri Prabhat Ganguly and his treks and exploration in upper Madmaheswar area near Kachni and Maindagalla lakes. And then came the final inspiration; the story of Ranajit Lahiri and Arun Ghosh. The efforts of these two explorers was to do the Shipton-Tilman’s route in reverse; but instead of following the Gondherpongi gorge up, they took a treacherous and futile (later proved to be ‘fatal’ as well) route by Kachni lakes! Ranajit and Arun never came back to tell us their part of the story; so we only can guess. What an unfortunate, yet, romantic end for them! I consider them bold and admire their courage till this day.

Of Maps and Mountains

It has always been almost religiously difficult for the Bengal mountaineers to get access to a decent map of the Himalayan ranges and I was no exception. To add to the misery, the Badrinath region falls under the restricted zone as per our Indian government. By that time in 1995, I had read a meticulously informative article on the glaciers of the Upper Alakananda valley, by Professor Manotosh Bandyopadhyay, and got instantly attracted to a glacier called the Panpatia glacier. I could sense a possibility to connect the Alakanananda valley with the Madmaheswar valley, but simply needed more information. Could not locate anyone in India then who had ventured in to the upper reaches of Panpatia glacier. I found a sketchy report by Sri Harish Kapadia, on his futile attempts to reach the upper Panpatia plateau and saw some slides from a team of Calcutta (Sri Probodh Ganguly) that went up to the snout of Panpatia glacier. Also found a brief report of an attempt on the Parbati Parbat(6257m) by a Bengal mountaineering club.

We had already formed a team by then and it was ably leaded by Dr. Kallol Das and Sri Tarun Bhuinya and Late Sri P.K.Burman and of course me the youngest one in the gang! All four of us were convinced that for an exploration of this degree we will have to consult the very best, and so we went and met Dr. Tridib Basu (then the Dy. Director of National Atlas and Thematic Mapping). Under careful instructions and suggestions made by Dr. Basu, we were all set to go!

Approaching Panpatia

In August 1996, the first attempt was made. Dr.Kallol Das and Tarun Bhuniya went ahead. I had to drop out due some urgent family reasons. So did Sri P.K.Burman. Dr. Das and Tarun Bhuinya entered the Khirganga Valley and could only explore a few kilometres of the Panpatia glacier. They however went and crossed the Holdsworths’ Pass (Nilkanth Khal) on their way out and reached Badrinath.

1997, September saw three young lads approaching Panpatia from a different direction altogether. Raghav Mukherjee, Subrata Bhattacharjee and me went up the Madmaheswar valley and went beyond Maindagalla Tal (lake) only to find out that one has to go down another narrow valley and cross another small glacier to reach the ridge that looked like the head wall of Panpatia glacier!

In October 1998, we were back again in Madmaheswar. The monsoon was heavy in Garwal Himalaya, few villages were completely washed down from the slopes and their debris had blocked the river Madmaheswar ganga. A big lake was formed as the debris barraged the river flow threatening flood and further damage any day. We went up and ahead and after camping at kachni and maindagalla lakes we crossed a depression (4750m) and came to find another impressive lake. After taking bearings on our location on the map, I was convinced that I had seen the hidden passage to Panpatia. That was a moment to cherish for me and a satisfying map reading exercise indeed! We had spotted the Panpatia Col and we were able to appreciate the glacier that was guarding its entrance. So we were back again in the valley the very next year. September 1999, saw me and Sundar Singh (a shepherd from the village of Gondar) crossing that unnamed stretch of glacier and cross Panpatia Col. I took pictures around as we strolled down to the vast ice plateau of Panpatia, and traced our footsteps back to lake and our cave shelter, where my friend the only other companion was suffering from AMS. We waited another day for my friend Subrata to recover, but he showed no sign of improvement. And so I was disheartened and down the tracks of Madmaheswar again. But at least this time, I was not going back empty handed, I was returning with the great thrilling feelings of standing on a hidden Himalayan pass, for the first time! My 3 years of efforts did not end in nothing!

Having been on the Madmaheswar side for last 3 years, I decided to go through the Alakananda side in 2000. In May 2000, again with a team of 3, we ventured into the Panpatia. After making 2 camps beyond the snout of the glacier, we reached a shelf tucked in between 2 icefalls. Our first attempt on climbing the icefall failed as we ended up under a vertical icewall and we were least prepared for it. And the next day we met some members of Martin Moran’s Nilkanth Expedition team, with Sobat Singh of Uttarkashi. My companion Subrata was suffering from AMS again, and we were losing valuable time. I met a person called Robin from Martin Moran’s team and even discussed routes over that icefall. Next day, we turned our back on the ice fall and down we went, as the Scottish team eventually crossed the col.

I later had the opportunity to interact with Martin Moran as he had mentioned his teams crossing in his website, and after exchange of photos and my report of 1999, Mr.Moran was convinced that, I was the first person to climb the col in 1999 and his team was first to cross the col in May 2000.

In 2002, I went for alpine style dash on the Parbati Parbat and could see the whole of the glacier and the plateau from the top of Parbati’s East summit (6145m) and took pictures. But never felt the same urge to go back there and finish the incomplete story that a few of us started and dared our imaginations.