Kuber Glacier Exploration and first Indian ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001

This expedition was probably the genesis of Adventure Mania. I found my report in Himalayan Journal's 2002 Expedition and Notes section. I am putting a copy of that report below:

EXPLORATION IN KUBER GLACIER

ANINDYA MUKHERJEE

OUR AIM WAS TO EXPLORE the less known plateau of Kuber glacier and evaluate possibilities of new high altitude trek routes in the area.

Kuber glacier is located to the east of Badrinath in the district of Joshimath (Uttaranchal). The coordinates of Kuber are 300 45′ N, and 790 31′ E. It is 3 km in length and 700 m wide. The height of its snout is 4008 m. The most dominant peak of Kuber is Nar Parvat (5855 m). The glacier is located at 790 33′ 30″ E and 330 44′ 50″ N, to the west of Nar Parvat. Kuber glacier stretches from east to west.

There is another interesting peak on the southwest ridge originating from Nar Parvat. This is the ‘Sky Peak’, climbed and christened by the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary in 1978.

History of Kuber

In 1978, after the ‘Jet Boat’ part of the famous ‘Ocean to Sky’ expedition was over, the team trekked their way on to Hemkund and Valley of Flowers, before attempting Narayan Parvat. They could not climb Narayan and instead attempted its companion Nar Parvat. Here another misfortune awaited them. Sir Hillary fell seriously ill with pulmonary oedema at Camp 1 (5360 m) Two helicopters of Indian Air Force flew on an evacuation mission the same day. But their attempts to land were foiled by bad weather. Luckily the weather relented and Ed was flown to Mana and then further to Bareilly. Three members, Peter Hillary, Murray Jones and Graeme Dingle finally climbed an unnamed peak (5850 m), which they symbolically named as ‘Sky’. They sprinkled Ganga water on the top of the peak.

We were the second team in Kuber and the first Indian team in the area. We were certainly thrilled to follow such famous footsteps.

The Journey

I started from Kolkata on 27 May, 2001, reaching Joshimath on 29 May. Balbir Burphel of Joshimath joined me there and we moved to Malari by jeep. We trekked to Gamsali village on the same day. On 31st Balbir and me entered the Amrit Ganga valley.

The Trek

On 31 May 2001 Balbir and myself moved west from Gamsali. After worshipping at the temple of Dani, we crossed the Amrit Ganga river and thereafter followed it’s true right bank. We intended to cross the famous Bhuindhar Kanta but did not follow the traditional track that follows through Thaur Udiyar and Eri Udiyar. We trekked beyond the vicinity of Thaur Udiyar and camped on the right lateral moraine SSE of the legendary Kakbhushandi Peak (5830 m). Next morning we had a grand view of Nilgiri Parvat (6474 m) to our west.

On 1 June, we moved south and entered the sanctum of Rataban (6166 m). Rataban north face was standing with all its grandeur. In this small valley, two glaciers join hands (one from Bhuindhar Khal and one from Rataban) and move north to join the main flow of Bankund glacier. That day we camped below the khal. It was a memorable night with high velocity wind funneling down from the pass. On 2 June, we moved west. Ours was going to be the earliest

crossing of the Khal of the year as most of the crossing generally takes place in July to October. We negotiated a steep ice slope and after a long traverse reached the top of the pass. Its altitude is 5090 m. We had a good view of Ghori Parvat (6708 m) and Rataban from the pass to the Bhuinder Valley side. The descent to Tipra glacier side was through treacherous snow slops involving long traverses and steep descent. Finally, we camped at Dhara Kharak. This name is given by ‘Shepherds’ as numerous waterfalls surround the camping ground. The enormous icefall coming from the south face of Rataban was the backdrop of our campsite. 3 June, was a cloudy day. We started early and traversed the Tipra glacier to SW and soon climbed up its right lateral moraine and entered the Valley of Flowers. We passed Chakulthela, Tipra Kharak and walked on the bed of Bhuindhar Ganga. Then after crossing Bamni Dhaur we reached Ghangharia and started down the valley to reach the bus head of Govind Ghat by late afternoon. By 06.00 p.m. we reached Joshimath. Thus the first part of our trek was over.

Quest for Kuber

On 4 June, Balbir and me reached Badrinath and Joined the Kuber glacier exploration team. It was a day of reunion and rest. We arranged for 3 LAPs took care of the last minute shopping, and went for a recce. We talked to bakriwalas and villagers of Mana. According to the map, the Kuber glacier is located directly east of Badrinath. We agreed on a direct approach from Badri.

Trek to Base Camp

On 6 June, we moved direct east from Badri and moved up the grassy spur. The going was tough due to a steep gradient. There was no track or trail. In most of the places we literally had to climb using the grass bunches as hand and foot holds. After 4 hours of strenuous but rewarding scrambling we reached our Transit Camp. Our TC was a beautiful, green, level patch of ground among vertical surroundings. It rained during the night but the next day dawned fine. We woke up under the ever watchful eyes of Nilkanth (6596 m). Urvashi and Narayan peaks looked like it’s two arms. After breakfast, we climbed eastwards. Very soon, we faced steep icy remains of winter snow on the upper part of the slope. We cut steps and fixed rope on the ice slope for the safe passage of the team. Then we moved a little to the north and climbed up a dangerously loose boulder zone. Then again took to the east. Dense fog was interrupting our progress intermittently. After 5 hours of toil we saw the icefall of Kuber glacier. A suitable site was found for making our base camp. The icefall was to our north. To our east was a 600 ice slope with four intermittent rock bands. To reach the upper plateau of Kuber we have to negotiate this very wall. To our SE was a rocky peak of 4319 m.

Beyond Base Camp

On 8 June, myself, Abbas and Balbir put our climbing boots on and started climbing the wall. Ice axes became a burden on the rock step. Very soon we were rock climbing with crampons on. We were relieved to see last of the rock bands. Then after steep climbing on hard ice, we reached a decent slope that led to the plateau. Clouds were closing in on us and we cut a shelf on the slope and pitched a tent. A mild drizzle of powder snow continued for the rest of the day.

On 9 June, the entire Kuber plateau was blanketed by heavy mist. It was impossible to find our route on the plateau. Still we pressed on, with the aid of a compass towards east. We climbed three humps but the curtain of mist showed no sign of improvement. Over the top of the third hump we waited for a long and frustrating hour but then gave up hope and went back to the camp. Around 3.30 p.m. blue sky appeared in the east. Balbir and myself went for a recce. This time we moved a little to the SE. After climbing two humps a fine, shapely, snow peak appeared on the far end of Kuber plateau. At the very first sight we recognized the peak. It was the Sky Peak, 5853 m. To its NE was Nar Parvat (5855 m). From Nar another ridge emanated towards west. On this ridge was a distinct col to climb Nar Parvat one would have to cross this col from Kuber plateau and attempt from its northern side. This might have required two more camps from our present point. So we turned our focus on Sky Peak. Between Sky and Nar Parvat lies a col that theoretically leads to the Khunt khal area. But the col was wearing a jacket of crevasses and a dangerous icefall guarded its descent. So we cancelled any probability of that route. However happy with our recce, Balbir and I returned to camp.

Ascent of Sky Peak

On June 10, Abbas, Balbir and myself started climbing the humps and within an hour reached the roof of Kuber plateau. We roped up and gained the NE ridge of Sky Peak. As soon as we reached the ridge a great view was waiting for us. We could now see Nanda Devi, Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Bethartoli Himal, Trisul and Ghori Parbat stretching from east to SE. We then turned south and started climbing the ridge. We climbed a 600 wall and gained the north shoulder of Sky. The summit ridge was sharp and beautiful. Carefully we negotiated the last steps and reached the summit of Sky at 08:00 a.m. We were happy and proud to be the first Indians on top of Sky. We did ‘puja’ on the summit and took photographs. Our eastern side was dominated by the Nanda Devi group and the same peaks were seen from the lower ridge. To our south west was the Vishnugarh dhar of the Khir ganga valley. We retraced our steps back to camp. We packed our tent and moved back to BC. The descent to BC was really treacherous. We climbed down cautiously and reached BC safely around noon.

The next day, we cleared BC and went down towards Badrinath. It was an endless descent. We made it to Badrinath by 2 p.m.

Team: Anindya Mukherjee (leader), S. K. Abbasuddin, Akash Parial, Diganta Roy Chowdhury, Subrata Bhattacharya and Balbir Burphel (HAS).

Summary: Exploration in Kuber glacier and ascent of Sky Peak, June 2001.

2011 Expeditions and Trips

Goecha La Trek & climbing Jopuno Peak
Where: West Sikkim, India
When: Monday, March 28, 2011 to
Saturday, April 16, 2011


Roop Kund Trek
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Monday, May 23, 2011 to
Sunday, June 12, 2011


Satopanth (7075m) Expedition
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Friday, July 1, 2011 to
Saturday, July 30, 2011

Guided ascents in the Swiss Alps
Where: Bernese Alps, Switzerland
When: Saturday, August 27, 2011 to
Saturday, September 10, 2011

Kilimanjaro- a high altitude trek
Where: Tanzania
When: Saturday, December 3, 2011 to
Saturday, December 10, 2011

Indian Himalaya 2010!

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk. We are looking forward to organize treks and mountaineering expeditions to the following peaks and areas this year. Please feel free to write back if you have a specific query regarding any of our trips mentioned below. We are also providing base camp supports to independent climbing parties all over the Indian Himalaya.

for a brief introduction to the mountains in Garhawal, Kumaon and Sikkim please click the link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com/2010/01/introduction-to-garhwal-kumaun-and.html

Scheduled Mountaineering Expeditions

• Mt. Lama Ongden (5818m)- 20 April- 8 May, 2010- Sikkim- remote areas of Ringi Chu valley of North Sikkim. Places open.

• Mt Shivling (6593m)- 5 June-4 July, 2010- Garhwal- places open: for photo tour from our Expedition to Shivling in 2008 please click on the link: http://arnarogberglind.smugmug.com/2009/shivlingmyndashow/10801390_wbD4g#754497766_b9faH ( courtesy: Arnar Emilsson and Berglind Adalsteinsdottir)

• Exploration climbing: 21 August, 2010- 18 September, 2010* (Himachal Pradesh)-places open

Note: those interested in doing climbs in less known and unexplored glaciers and valleys in Indian Himalaya may contact Raja for more info on this planned expedition.

• Exploration Climbing Spiti-Oct 25, 2010 to November 24, 2010

( positions filled)*

Scheduled Treks:

• SINGALILA RIDGE TREK:

You can join our scheduled Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010. This will be lead by Raja and Yoga lessons will be given by Hilde Wasserfall. Dates: March 27, 2010 to April 11, 2010

For more info on this trek please email:

• SPITI-LADAKH TRAVERSE

MANALI-KAZA- PARANGLA- TSO MORIRI- TELAKONLA-MANALI TREK:

Period: 17July- 6 August 2010

• KUARI PASS TREK: THE NANDA DEVI TRAIL

October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

A few places left to book and join this great trek with magnificent views of the Nandadevi and its associate mountains.Trek Grade: Easy

For a picture tour of Kuari trails click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for details Email Raja:

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com


Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get involved in one of these camps that we do.

regards,

Anindya Mukherjee "Raja"

Kuari Pass Trek 2010

Kuari Pass Trek 2010: October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

places open:

for a picture tour of the Kuari trail click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for more more info email Raja or Contact Adventure Mania

Indian Himalaya 2010

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk.

2009 is almost over and we are already planning for 2010. We need climbers for the following peaks for 2010:

Mt Shivling (6593m)- August, 2010
Mt Satopanth (7050m)- August-September, 2010
Mt kalanag (6387m)- May-June 2010

You can also join our Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

It is true that apart from Kanchenjunga, we do not have any 8000m peaks! What we have is countless less known glaciers and mountain peaks ranging from 5000m to 7000m (and many of them are unclimbed..still!!!); valleys very few tourists have hiked; rivers seldom rafted down; culture so deep rooted and vibrantly colourful people. And these all are but the finest components that can make your trip to Indian Himalaya a truly memorable one!

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

If you are interested to join any of our scheduled treks or climbing adventures,please visit our website: www.adventuremania.com. Or just write and email to Raja.

We are also regular treks to remote Sikkim, Garwal and Kumaun, Himachal Pradesh regions.We also offer full service guided ascents on non technical summits.

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get invloved in one of these camps that we do.

Adventures ahead: Kellas Peak on the horizon

3 weeks in Spiti passed swiftly. Snow and wind as constant company, we managed to trek from Kibber to the Lingti valley. The original plan to cross Parang la was abondoned due to too much new powder snow. So had to forget Tso Mo Riri this time; and focussed on the land and culture of Spiti instead.

After the trip, back in Manali, surprises and shock were waiting for me. My blogs were thoroughly spammed. This prompted me to clean my space and change all the settings hoping to ever watrchful evil eyes of the spammer. Reminds me of the black gate and the eye of Sauron (Lord Of the Rings)!

Came back home only discover my laptop sick, and desktop critical. To add to the misery, the internet device dead! So I have to catch up with my work and emails in internet cafes nowadays for a change! Not fair!

The only nice thing was probably being home in Durga Puja festivals after 7 years. It was juyst nice to be around with my son and catching up with friends.

But now the holiday is over and I am all set for expedition to peak Kellas in remotest corner of North Sikkim. Tell you what, all the permits are now done!!! Phew! Its going to be interesting as little is known about the mountain and its approaches. So I am open to challenges from all possible (and impossible) corners and of course I am not undermining the Indian and Sikkim bureaucracy. After all a piece of paper can easily blow away the peace of mind! Yes!

Kaza

After getting stranded again on Rohtang Pass road, finally reached Kaza last evening. A gruelling 11 hours on the road and a well earned rest at the Himachal Tourism Hotel Spiti. It was good to see the young cook from Kullu is still there and he almost made us feel at home with a fantastic meal.

 

We seem to be lucky weather wise this time, though the September wind is already biting cold. Its going to be some cold nights up ahead at Parang La I am sure. Arranging transport to Kibber and permits is on top of my agenda today. Shopping for 12 days for 13 people is also happening right now. Off to Kibber tomorrow. The highest village (4250m) connected with a motorable road and electricity.

 

Some of us have gone to visit the nearby Dankhar Gompa, while the not so lucky ones are happily roaming in the streets of Kaza.

 

Since we were lucky enough not to get stranded in Kunzumla due to untimely snow fall ( read in the newspaper at Losar Police post that this snowfall broke 54 years record), I am hoping that we will make it through the next 2 weeks with safety an success. Crossing of Parangla (5580m) is the most demanding part of this 2 week trip, but what interests me more is the exit route chosen. Instead of following the obvious path to Leh after reaching the Tso Moriri , I am inclined to follow the valley of Phirtse Fu and cross Telkon La (5050m) and reach Pang, the road head.

Looking forward to do some exploring up the KIbber valey and towards kanamo (5900m) and Shilla( 6130m) Peak. It can be a good acclimatisation day for the team as well. The small peak on the left of Parangla is also in my mind. Lets see how everything goes. Safety comes first!

Next contact with internet wil be around 24 Sep. Till then good bye and peace!

--
Adventure Mania
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